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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Apr 14, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
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Leave the politics at home please, or on those other lame ass threads.
Randy, the only pic on masonite you ever gave me is the one of Matt and I on Hesitation. Have it by the front door and love it. It takes me back to high school and a time when we never believed we would live to an age anywhere near where we are now!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 14, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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Awesome thread. Tip of the hat to Todd. Wish I could be there next weekend. I'll be the only one in Yosemite.
Largo, Thanks for Magical Mystery Tour and so many others.
We need Juan de Fuca on this thread:
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Apr 15, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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Couldn't find my red guide. I had to go through the '93 Vogel/Gaines book and ink them.
Tahquitz-129
Suicide- 203
I did realize there are a bunch of newer ones I could still do in the 5.8-5.10 range.
Derrell??? I know you have me beat and Bobbie G., probably tops.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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332 for Evans.....sheeet...;....what was I doing;...sleeping at the wheel?.........I need to get busy;.......it's gonna be a long summer;......I hang my head in shame;....I'm a n00b, an upstart, a sprout, and a noobie........Evans is the bull and the Beast;..the hawk and the Ghost...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 15, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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That isn't all Evans is... ooops. Gordo, you are a slacker!!! DE and I probably are the hardest to top for numbers at Suicide. He and I hooked up a couple of years pretty routinely to ferret out any and everything. Great times.
Kris, you probably caught it, but it is Red Rain (Peter Gabriel), not Purple Rain (Prince). Evans just about killed me over that one. I momentarily spaced when talking to someone after we did it (DE brainchild and lead) and used the Purple name. That somehow then got propagated, much to DE's disgust - he just about gave me a new set of ears. Speaking of Red Rain, you people must not be seeing the bomber nut right after joining the Cross. Also the bomber nut that signifies no more possibility of gear ripping when doing the Cross P1 sans pin. Right over the small roof with the killer stance under it. #4 old style rock keyholed (so won't pull), so good the wire would need to break - literally.
If you could only take one wired nut for the most Suicide routes, what size? #4 old style rock. Fits the Cross P1, fits the Ishi flake P1, first nut in the start of the Caliente arch (by then it better be bomber), just to name a few of the placements. Now is that minutia or what?
Bolts have been added to the Cross already (which should be undone), 2 of them in the upper dihedral. I remember a pretty hilarious conversation between Powell and JL one time when discussing the standup move at the top of the dihedral (prior to bolts obviously). Maybe you had to hear it to appreciate it - but if you know KP and JL you should be able to hear it. Something like:
KP: Dicey standup. What if you fell off there?
JL: You don't fall there.
KP: But what if you went over backwards?
JL: You don't even think about falling there.
KP: But what if you (JL interruts): Ho Man, you JUST DON'T.
Picante is pretty darn good, as per JL. A little on the run side but so good. Almost saw a dinosaur rumble at the base of that one. Man, KP and I were fearing for our lives, afraid we might become collateral damage. The south face has to be the highest concentration of good routes at Suicide. Hades, Knockin', Disco, Picante, Hell's Angel, Archangel, Cruxifiction (12a, sandbag at less), and on and on. All close together, all superb.
Craig, I'd have to take the time to count routes. That sounds like work.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 15, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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I remember climbing on the South Face with Henny once, trying to figure out where a route called the Boomerang supposedly went. Someone had talked a load of sh#t about it being a great new route and something we HAD to do and we ended up looping all around left and right and down and up, not ever sure if we were on the route or not and when we got to the top Henny goes, "What was that we just did," and I said, "I have no idea."
Another time I was talking about a Rubidoux goat sighting up by my Etude, but Henny wasn't going for it. We'd smuggled said goat up there in the bed of Richard's El Camino, but no one believed that part either.
Speaking of the goat, one time down by the lower parking lot at Rubidoux, Richard H. lassooed the thing with a bight of perlon and it dragged him all the way to Turtle Dome. We kept trying to get Bobby to believe that's just how it happened, claiming we had photos and so forth - but no cigar.
I remember seeing Craig F. up by Joe Brown boulder when he was like, 11 or 12. Guy had promise and even back then he had the superhuman strength and suave demeanor that would later lead us to call him the "tall, sleek Newfy." As in Newfoundland. I believe Craig's ancestors were from that Godforsaken land. But anyway, back in the day, when Craig was just 11 or so, Richard claimed he was "so skinny he could bivouac inside the barrel of a blowgun."
And man, that's skinny.
JL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 15, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
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Funny that spicy (Picante) has become the adjective du jour for runout climbs.
Unlike spicy food, most don't prefer spicy climbing! LOL
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 15, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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Speaking of Red Rain, you people must not be seeing the bomber nut right after joining the Cross.
I know that #4 stopper, above the little roof. For me, that's the pro for stepping up through the little roof and finishing the pitch. Coming up the Cross, with your rope running back that way, there is enough good gear between where the pin was and the nut to which you refer. I wouldn't care to just run it from where the pin was up to that nut, but that's just me.
Coming up the Rain side that nut is your first good piece after the bolt. I guess that's why I only led that one once. It's fun to TR it after doing the Cross P1.
My friend Charlie Crist was going for Iron Cross one day. He got the pin clipped and slipped. Out it came. He ping ponged down into that chimney-slot behind the tower there. Messed up a nice shirt but otherwise okay...
Purple Rain? Red Rain? The book says you guys did that in 86. When did the "So" album come out? Oh well, I'm a Prince fan anyway. That Brit always came off kind of ponderous to me.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 15, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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Uhhhm... John, those goat stories...
One would have to ask DE when "So" came out. I obviously wasn't into it enough to keep the names straight.
Speaking of P2 on the Cross and that standup move. Once the move was done, a bolt was clipped and a 10b sequence followed. Prior the added bolts the nearest gear below that was small wires (RPs) a ways down. When we were replacing bolts I had the pleasure of doing that one. I stuck a pin under it, and tapped it once to get it seated for the removal. That was all it took, the bolt was out. By all appearances it had been completely broken in the hole for a very long time. I just about came unglued, started yelling at Powell, "Did you see THAT???, Did you see THAT???". It was always such a relief to clip that bolt with those RPs down there. Little did we know the bolt was utter garabage. What a hideous place that would have been for a bolt failure.
Yikes Kris. Ping-ponging behind that flake on the IC. Lucky.
Speaking of big falls and lucky (I've mentioned these before), I've twice seen someone fall from the P2 traverse on Sundance, and hit the ledge because of poor hip belays. And both of those guys left under their own power. How they didn't get skewered by the log, at a minimum, is beyond me. Bobby also fell off there and was dropped by his belayer. The guy did catch him right above the ledge though. I could stand on the ledge and touch him with him reaching down, thats how far from the ledge he was. Don't know what it was about that traverse and hip belays.
I always thought John did a good job of not drilling one last bolt on Picante. The moves going towards The Miscalc aren't real hard, but not very easy either. And by then it would be pretty sizable. The way it ended up was really good. Consistent.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 15, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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Flakes-STH-Flakes-The Price of Fear is a great linkup. Batcrack-Crucifix-Field of Dreams is a step up from that.
Thanks for the lowdown Murf. Always heard The Flakes was good but that those linkups were even better. Didn't get up to Idyllwild at all last year, gotta remedy that this year.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Apr 15, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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Scanned the guide and came up with a paltry 291. All this talk has me re-psyched to head up there. There a number of moderates still to be ticked.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 15, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
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The Manx just tweeted me and said he has 584, combined.
Dr. F sez: The Newf_proof_roof is not, AKA Paisano Overhang
That's what I heard.....
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 15, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
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I always thought John did a good job of not drilling one last bolt on Picante. The moves going towards The Miscalc aren't real hard, but not very easy either. And by then it would be pretty sizable. The way it ended up was really good. Consistent.
The bigger run out was the one I didn't do but almost did till DB who was belaying said it was absurd - a groundfall from about 50 feet up - so I slapped in the bolt and came down and as I remember, Henny and I took turns putting the rest of the bolts in on the lead.
Then I went back a few years later and Henny had yanked all the holds off the thing and it felt like mid 5.12.
Wonder if it ever gets done these days??
JL
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Apr 15, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
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"Top 20" ???? gimme a break! there's stack-loads of GREAT climbs in Idyllwild. Hands down, one of my very favorite places to climb. Never had a bad day up there.....
I can't claim to have climbed every one of those on T.G.'s list. Someday I'll finish Valhalla. Someday I'll go back and lead Insomnia. Someday I'll nail that crux on The Vampire. Someday I'll find the courage to get up on The Green Arch. Who knows.....
Paisano Overhang? I'll be training for that one this summer in Vedauwoo.
here's a couple random photos from a prior lifetime....
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Apr 15, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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Darrell, those were fun times ferreting out the obscure.
I knew I was up there as it was a major goal for more than a few years.
There were a couple I wasn't totally sure about (and didn't ink). One was called Mike and Larry's Excellant Adventure 5.10c. It's below the Sunshine face. Did we do that one?
Are you coming to the party?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Apr 15, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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There might be someone there you know.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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DE, I don't think you and I did Mike and Larry's together. I recall doing that (and the others right by it) with KP and JW.
Then I went back a few years later and Henny had yanked all the holds off the thing and it felt like mid 5.12.
Wonder if it ever gets done these days?? Yeah, right. It took a bigger boy than me to eliminate a couple of the holds. No names mentioned.
People are missing a good route if they don't do it. But I have a feeling it isn't real popular. One has to manage getting to the first bolt without augering, something that always seems to give me pause. JW drilled the first bolt a weekend or two before JL and I hooked up on it. JW climbed out there in his tennis shoes, drilled the bolt, and then down-climbed. Based on that when I went to lead it, I was like "wtf?, JW did this in his tennis shoes." The crux run on Picante is so good, micro-edging with some penalty if one knuckleheads it. I remember taking about 10 mins after the crux to get it sucked up enough to drill the bolt where it was supposed to go. There was a smaller stance about a body length higher that had an obviously tricky move to get on it, and I was no longer interested in pitching. I mentioned wanting to drill and JL immediately started goading me on. "You want to do WHAT??? You have to stand up, you have no choice" Of course it turned out way better for having stood up. Ah yes, good old peer pressure. For whatever the reason, possibly because it was such a good time putting it up, that route is still one of my favorites on the south face.
John, I had totally forgotten that a few pictures were taken that day. Remember this? Drilling the bolt after the crux.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
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Toad, that's a pretty big claim you're making. Tony might have posted high numbers, but my goodness look at the competition.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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Nice pic, D.
See you at Todd's crib this weekend. Ricky is flying in from Denver on Friday and we're bouldering at Rubidoux on Friday. Might be fun.
BTW, we're thinking of doing a sesh on Sat. at the Integraton. Remember that contraption?
They say:
The Integratron is the creation of George Van Tassel, and is based on the design of Moses’ Tabernacle, the writings of Nikola Tesla and telepathic directions from extraterrestrials. This one-of-a-kind building is a 38-foot high, 55-foot diameter, non-metallic structure originally designed by Van Tassel as a rejuvenation and time machine. Today, it is the only all-wood, acoustically perfect sound chamber in the U.S.
Apparently, they were missing a key part, so the time traveling aspect never worked and Van Tassel went and died. Then they recently found the missing piece in the garage of Van Tassel's widow, and the rig went on line last week. They stuck the widow's beagle in the machine and it supposedly vanished before their very eyes, but was later picked up wandering out by Lost Pencil.
Anyhow, Ricky and I are thinking about going to check the thing out. I think you have to ply the widow with hard drink to get in. Or something.
JL
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 16, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Yeah, Tony made his mark. KP and I talked to him the day he put up Gates. He said he had been pulling down so hard he started bleeding under the fingernails. Wow.
okay, just to satisfy Craig - based on the 2001 guide.
Many people are ahead of me at the big stone. I was too lazy and would usually opt for the shorter hike. In fact, only went to both stones for routes in a single day twice.
Tahquitz: 99
Suicide: 303
And yeah, these kinds of conversations do seem a little vain, but people seem to want to play.
Edit: Happy Craig?
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