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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 29, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
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Lovin that shot of Rags, stokedsean.
All those shots / spots are sick, actually.
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stokedsean
Trad climber
Waaay down there
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Feb 29, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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Glad I am finally returning something to this amazing site...Ive been lurking about other peoples trip reports for some time now...
Heres a few more surf and climb stoke photos of two complimentary pursuits(i.e more shameless self promotion of my own fortunate adventures) Hope you folks enjoy them!
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bixquite
Social climber
humboldt nation
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Feb 29, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
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hey jefe, the southern hemi pic looks like incondensia in enquique?
fun wave, kinda heavy...
bouys are popping do you know where your gun is?
peace
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 29, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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pretty shitty day, so i had a beer instead.
this thread is getting better and better!
went climbing yestarday.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Over the falls?
Hitting the lip
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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In the spirit of keeping this thread alive I thought that I would like to try and share one of my images of surfing a substantial winter day here on the north shore a few seasons back.
The parking lot isn’t empty but there are a lot of vacant spaces.
Walking through the kiavi trees out to the beach I get my first view of the ocean.
I’m wide eyed and I have a lump in my throat as I stare into the winter swell. With my binoculars I watch one wave after another close out completely.
The waves are so big that I question my sanity for even thinking about paddling out!
I am preoccupied and I don’t realize that my friend Dave has arrived at the scene.
Dave looks at the conditions and says, “Olaf, this is dangerous!"
I reply, “It could be Dave, but let’s paddle out, we don't have to drop in on any of them!"
Having surfed this spot many times we are fully aware of how the hydraulics work over this section of reef.
The size and direction of this swell has changed the character of everything.
The main peak is much further out than normal and there is a breaking wave in the channel.
There are also occasional sneaker peaks popping up in odd places.
I manage to catch few smaller waves on the inside left and started to calm down a bit. In fact I was having fun.
On the horizon I see this "macker" rolling in and Dave and I both start paddling for our lives, were paddling up a dead vertical wall of water! Our timing was good and we both made it over that one.
That really got my adrenaline pumping!
Dave says, "Humm! Olaf, that one was big!"
I reply, "Yeah Dave it was, but take a look at this one!"
The next wave of the set comes out of nowhere.
It totally creams us!
All that I have time to do is take a deep breath, relax, and hang on to my board.
After tumbling in the torrent for a while I surface and I say to myself, “WOW! That one wasn’t so bad.”
I look to make sure if my board is still in one piece. I find it’s still intact.
Thanks to the long intervals between the larger sets the paddle back out side is casual.
Back in the lineup, I notice each surfers face is sporting a serious expression and there is relatively no idle conversation. There isn’t a defined line up, the waves are erratic and the current is so strong that it’s hard to hold any kind of position.
It's every man for himself.
If some fool wants to roll the dice and drop in on one of these waves, every one wishes him well and gets out of the way!
While I’m patiently sitting outside what appears to be a perfect peak comes my way.
I turn and paddle for it.
My timing is late and I am sucked over the falls.
I take a long freefall followed by a violent thrashing!
Next, I get to walk on the reef for a while, and my only thought is that, I need air!
Pulling hand over hand on my leash takes me to the surface. I’m careful not to pull too hard. Once in the past, I actually pulled my board right into my face. That proved to be way more dangerous than the wave.
I’m shaken from the violent pounding of the last wave but paddle back out. I sit the outside the breaking waves for a good long while.
After the last thrashing, I’m not eager to put my life back on the line right away.
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It’s some time before I able to relax.
Eventually my thoughts turn to idle daydreaming. Thoughts like what I want to be when I grow up or that bonehead thing that I wish I hadn’t said last night replace the tension and terror of my last wipeout.
It’s a lot of work to hold my position where I think the wave will peak.
Some of the other surfers are sitting inside and left. They’re trying to surf in the safety zone created by the left shoulder section. This strategy often works but today the left channel is closing out.
A very steep board-breaking wave takes its place and is catching the unsuspecting surfers off guard.
Then low and behold the most perfect wave manifests right before my eyes. I really don’t have to try to catch it. It is just that perfect.
Two strokes are all that it takes and I’m on it! I’m dropping down the face of this magnificent wonder of nature. It is a perfectly pealing left hand wave with a steep shoulder that goes on forever! It feels like some three star intermediate groomed run at Vail.
With total commitment I set my rail and initiate the bottom turn. I then climb back to the lip and cut back to the peak. With the peak crumbling just inches behind my fin, I smack the lip and then repeat the aforementioned, seemingly interminable drop, rails digging and fins threatening to break loose but still holding their track I glide into the channel!
I hear “hoots” from the other surfers! I know that I have just dropped in on one of the best waves of the day.
I spend another hour getting clobbered without getting another wave.
It‘s a long paddle in but I have had enough of this brand of fun for one day!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
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Kind-a like comparing two beautiful Girls don’t you think?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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when i'm on a climbing trip slack line helps keep the balance.
capt was drunk!
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dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
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The local spot breaks like this almost everyday! six to ten foot off shore trades.
super clear water it’s the best break I have ever surfed!
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The Alpine
Big Wall climber
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Point Dume in the house! Love that place...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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My last surf.
small and clean.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Rock-er-Waves
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Making the best out of a small day...
no matter how much i hurt myself from climbing too much (i hate to say too much but it's true) i can somehow always surf
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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