Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th

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Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jan 20, 2012 - 06:22pm PT

John,

Yes, they are both beautiful formations / lines!

Werner,

Maybe Bridwell would have chopped the bolts, if he had time.
He was in favor of chopping the WoEML, too - he was gonna do it, but Robbins wanted to check out the route first and promised to chop it, as Bridwell knew it might get too strong a vote for non-chopping if Robbins climbed it without chopping.
As it was, I think Jim and Steve were just trying to escape down the route with their lives.
The 130' whipper into the fog when Jim's borrowed sling parted indicated the adventure level, I think!
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1980/375_bridwell_cerrotorre_aaj1980.pdf

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Jan 20, 2012 - 06:22pm PT

...the rock face was damaged already and if you want to clean up some mess remember that is going to look ever worse than before!

The holes can be patched to near invisible both color- and texture-wise if the person doing the patching takes the time and really knows what they're doing. There is no reason on earth for it to look "worse than before".

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Jan 20, 2012 - 06:25pm PT

Maybe he was referring to it looking worse if someone decides this action was wrong and put up more bolts to the restore the route. I believe the threat hs already been made. Could be an endless cycle.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Jan 20, 2012 - 06:30pm PT

Here's his full quote - pretty clear he's just talking about the chopping.

I think they should have left the bolts as it was... the rock face was damaged already and if you want to clean up some mess remember that is going to look ever worse than before! I have been around up there... not impress with what they've done.

Pretty out of date relative to the ins and outs of chopping / epoxying and doing it competently.

Gene

climber

Jan 20, 2012 - 07:11pm PT

I suspect that in a few years the bolt chopping by K & K on Maestri’s partial line will be viewed not as desecration or arrogance but simply raising the price of admission to an incredible summit.

Doesn’t K & K’s bolt chopping pale in comparison to what Maestri did, especially in light of the fact that the compressor route - which Maestri never completed - was meant to silence critics of his 1959 ascent claims? Maestri failed in both 1959 and 1970. What do we owe him or his bolts?
g

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Cal

Jan 20, 2012 - 07:16pm PT

So let me get this straight, If I go do a route in better style than the F.A. party by bypassing any bolts they placed on the route, I have the right to go and chop the bolts I bypassed?

How crazy is that logic? I did an onsight free solo of Snake Dike, can I now chop the bolts on it because I climbed the route "by fair means"? That is friggin stupid!

How about this analagy: since those amazing Brits did Bachar-Yerian with only the one bolt on the 3rd pitch, can the bolts on the first two pitches now be removed?

How about the Cables route on Half Dome. It certainly would be considered a desecration by modern consensus, yet it is the most popular route up Half Dome. Should those cables now be removed to make the top of Half Dome accesible to "more worthy climbers"?

Get over yourselves Hayden, Jason & Rolo. You are not the omniscient ones with all powerful knowledge. You just vandalized a route that was a big part of history. I have much respect for your previous ascents and the style they were done in but this is just wrong. Did Hayden & Jason remove every bolt on the Compressor Route? Or, did they just chop the top pitch/pitches so nobody can finish the route now via the bolt ladder? In my opinion, if they didn't chop the entire route, they just F-ed up a huge part of history.

Where does this madness end? The rock still suffered the effects of the drill, the holes are still there, what besides vandalizing the route did you accomplish. Shame on the two of them & anybody who condones this short-sighted deed of nefariousness.

Bill Leventhal

Pass the Chongo, Chongo

Social climber

camped on P3 of WOS

Jan 20, 2012 - 07:17pm PT

ALL SUMMITS MUST BE ATTAINED BY 5.12+ & A2 CLIMBING!!!!!!

NOTHING LESS OR YOUR A PUSSY NON ALPINIST CHUMP AND SHOULD STAY AT HOME!!

PTcc!!!!!!

Pass the Chongo, Chongo

Social climber

camped on P3 of WOS

Jan 20, 2012 - 07:19pm PT

ALSO ONLY BOLTS TOUCHED BY HAYDEN KENNEDY AND JASON KRUK WILL BE THOSE ALLOWED TO REMAIN ON ANY ROUTE!!!!!!!!!!! IF HK AND/OR JK DOES NOT NEED THE BOLTS, YOUR A PUSSY NON ALPINIST CHUMP END OF STORY!!!

ms55401

Trad climber

minneapolis, mn

Jan 20, 2012 - 07:20pm PT

funny shtt above, yo

Jennie

Trad climber

Elk Creek, Idaho

Jan 20, 2012 - 07:23pm PT

Every testosterone tilt deserves a tower. Photo by Edu Aresti.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Jan 20, 2012 - 07:25pm PT

Think someone local should have done the job. The gentleman from argentina who is obviously someone very famous over there and wanted the rout chopped should have done the deed himself. It is just not right for anyone to go to annother country and tell them how to climb and chop routs that you do not agree with.

ms55401

Trad climber

minneapolis, mn

Jan 20, 2012 - 07:30pm PT

'mericans don't need to ask second-world bumpkins for anything

stefano607518

Trad climber

italy/austria/switzerland

Jan 20, 2012 - 07:48pm PT

You guys must be kiddin, donnow how is going to be or not to be in real but i must admit that this way of going, i did it free or by fair means...(plus adding some bolts more but beside it...) so I´ll chop it out... (clean the line) sound really childish and foolish.

I mean on the same way many old routes here in the dolomites now should be cleaned out from pitons and bolds...even i can climb some old routes from maestri made in the dolomites with extensive use of pressure pins.

would it then be right to clean them out???

Sorry guys but if i agree with the obvious fact than Maestri made his revenge by wrong means, i have to admit that this erasing of a piece of history from Co. Torre make me unconfortable.

Theb guys, (nice climb btw, chapeau) made a remarkable climb, but they oviously climbed an independent line....why then and in the name of what chop out the pins of a line on the side??? NEEDED SOME MORE WORKOUT???

Sh#t i do not know whether i can make my point here but in fact this sort of anarchy of chopping out deserve all my opposition (..and some from others i hope)

Anyhow guess we could soon find these pins and even the compressor itself on ebay.... typical and fair right???

WTF

somebody said "Cleaning up an anthropogenic mess is a great thing"...i do not agree here, any route can be considered like that by different eyes...
moreover somebody discussed and democratically voted to KEEP IT LIKE THAT..you guys did not respect this point

PS.what are you fighting whit we you climb you guys? yourself or the mountain?

Gretz from Europe

guest

climber

Jan 20, 2012 - 08:38pm PT

Damn, we’re descending into a lot of ignorant comments. For example, the utterly irrelevant comparisons about chopping well-bolted, climbing-world accepted routes where maybe someone didn’t need to clip the bolts themselves (the Snake Dike example by Bill L most recently, but brought up by others as well). Such comparisons, of reasonably bolted routes, bear no relevance to the bolted-crack and bolt-ladder atrocity that is the Compressor Route. Interestingly, the most uninformed comments are often the most strongly stated as well.

Likewise, as I and others have explained ad nauseam, the “foreigner” thing isn’t so simple either. I think it's hard to forcefully say that foreigners are doing a horrible thing by chopping an abomination of bolts initially installed by a foreigner. Maestri wasn’t Argentine. He didn’t have “consent” to desecrate Cerro Torre like he did. At least consider this before blathering ignorantly as if it’s a route put-up by locals in some sort of accepted-for-the day standard (neither are true).

Let’s be clear: nobody who’s even remotely informed on the Compressor Route would claim that the 400+ bolts (installed by a foreigner, with no “local consent” or whatever) belonged, or that it was an even borderline acceptable route.

The only legit defense for the CR staying is “it’s already there, it’s a piece of history, leave it.” Some Argentines feel this way, some do not. Personally, I can see both sides, but I’m fine with it being chopped (not that my opinion matters); it’s an abomination, and we tear down lots of things that shouldn’t be there; I know, we also leave some standing – there is no definitive answer.

The random, uninformed spouting represents both the great thing and the unfortunate thing about the internet: anybody can chime in, regardless of how ill informed they may be. But it’s not a terrible idea to educate yourself about the topic before going off.
--Kelly

David Wilson

climber

Jan 20, 2012 - 08:38pm PT

well, according to the logic at hand, the half dome cables should certainly be next to go.....they may need some demo skills for those.....

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Jan 20, 2012 - 08:50pm PT

our passage should go unnoticed among those mounts.

but our fear of change inhibits our purity.
maestri was pure afraid of dying. so he shot the place
foul of hole, to ensure his soul.

though really,
his soul was already consumed by fear.

death is his, boss.
and death defines many.

these fools flail wildly in all of their's pursuit.

we whom co-inherit death and life strive for purity of passage in
difficult realms.

the mounts are there, always receiving warriors and fools, alike.

they are beyond us. the mounts.
they are eternal.

but we, finite beings of soft flesh and vunerable systems
can exploit the high and cold and make less sense of their and of our world,

and according to this accepted confusion we've transcended the fear-mongers
whom murder every potential mystery with a submission of their spirit to god.

fsck

climber

Jan 20, 2012 - 08:52pm PT

brave young surgery
removing the vulgar scar
abusive lover

so, no more free rides
from inadequate suitors
or soulless lovers

we are so sorry
you have to try harder now
she's worth it, you know?

pimp daddy wayne

Gym climber

Manchester, VT

Jan 20, 2012 - 09:21pm PT

Awesome poem man!

dirhk

Trad climber

Jan 20, 2012 - 09:29pm PT

On the day Hayden and Jason skull f*#ked the torre, all you folks were probably working your desk job. They're living the dream- this internet banter is just so insignificant.