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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Badass.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Congrats to Jason and his partner.
First climbed by Mark Chapman and Kevin Worral in 1975. Seems rare that it's in condition. Yesterday's might be the 12th ascent.
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WBraun
climber
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Greg Loniewsk & Jason Torlono.
Jason told me running water was squirting out while tooling their axes in various places on the upper pitches ......
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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how cold was it in the valley that day?
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nice graph. If it were only ten degrees colder...
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Man, that ice in Tuolumne looks AWESOME - way to get after it guys!!
I think the ice in Yosemite is always wet.
Leversee, EC Joe and I did Upper Sentinel Falls back in the '80's and got absolutely drenched.
Then, after an ice climbing trip to Canada where it was wicked cold and everything was dinner plated, Tom Davies and I went up and did Silver Strand and it was like plastic - compared to what we had been climbing on up in Canada.
Actually, we climbed at Reeds the day before in t-shirts, and Werner, you may not remember this, but you were like, yer' going to die, when you heard we were going to go up to the Strand the next day. Of course we got to the base and there was a big hole with water clearly gushing. I remember saying, I'll just climb up a ways and check it out - ha, ha - anyway, we had water coming out of pick holes, but got to the top only to find a huge horizontal crack about 10' below the top. The route fell down three days later...
I had always wanted to do that route after spending several months in Patagonia with Walt - and hearing him rave about his epic on it. Never got to do Widows Tear though....
Paul
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WBraun
climber
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Bruce
Yes those temps are marginal.
These two guys Jason and Greg are locals who live and work here.
Greg is a contractor who works all the time but he's done lots of El Cap routes, Fitzroy, Cerro Torre, and free climbs hard trad all while working full time.
These guys were off the couch to speak on this and just went for it.
Blah blah blah
Gagner
Yeah I remember that. The strand has more of a history of water coming out of the pick holes.
It's a scary fuker because of that along with the cauliflower ice up there.
Mayfield free soloed and he had that problem with water gushing out.
Scary ass sh!t!
I was with Shipley once and the whole ice pillar broke with me on it and Walt and Stretch were belaying me with no anchor sliding towards the edge from the weight. (not on Widows Tears)
LOL good stuff ... :-)
And Bruce
Some of us are too poor to fly all over the place to play .....
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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This is one drainage to the left of Widow's tears yesterday. Seems like some of these smears are about to connect. Any ascents over in this area?
Thanks Kevin, I was wondering where the best vantage was.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Werner - if i remember correctly from a phone conversation almost decades ago with Peter, his solo of the Silver Strand was even more exciting than just water gushing out. I think he said he broke a pick when he was way, way up there and had to hang off one tool while replacing the broken pick on his other tool.
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WBraun
climber
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BMcC, most likely although I can't remember all the details.
But you remember, so that sounds like a nightmare, yikes !!!!
Maybe Peter will post and tell us again .....
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
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here's a shot of the tears 6 days ago. looks like the curtain fell off the day before this shot was taken. good job to the guys climbing this in less than ideal conditions
yeh i remember doing the strand with peter and his crampon loosened up leading the second pitch, he somehow finished the pitch though
ill go up and take some more pics tomorrow!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Is there an anchor at the top to top rope widow's tears??
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
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just ask werner to borrow the 4000 footer from sar. big tree on top for tr :)
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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I flew out to Salt Lake once for some "sweet" ice climbing. Of course you buy the cheap ticket a couple of weeks in advance and don't know what conditions you are going to get. Well, a warm front came in and when we arrived is was kind of warm misty all over. Not rain, but you'd get wet after an hour in the stuff. Anyway, we had flown in to climb so we went climbing. On our way in two locals were coming down saying "its too warm". But we went up anyway. Actually, I was like "maybe not today", but my (shall remain nameless) partner insisted. A pitch up Stairway to Heaven I feel the whole curtain settle a couple of inches (should have been a clue). I'm freaked. "leave a f*#king screw and lets get out of here." But no, younger voices pushed me on and up. About 15 minutes later the whole f*#king curtain to our right came down. Maybe 100' wide by 100' high sheet of ice just peeled away from the bare rock. All this less then 100' from us. Finally we got real and bailed. And I made a vow, never to climb on warm ice again. Sh#t does happen.....
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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taken on 1-4-13
here is the same spot Dan
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I was joking about top roping Widow's Tears by the way :) That would be sort of hilarious though..
PS: looks not bad today! Where's that SAR rope located?!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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What's the rating on it anyways? Must not be any harder than wi4-5 with some runout sections maybe? It's the objective danger and conditions that is the crux, or there is some hard climbing there too?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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It was F*#KING ICY THERE YESTERDAY!
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