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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jun 29, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
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Sketchy: one correction. I believe we did have a couple of pitons. The definition of clean climbing at the time meant no hammer or tool to bang on stuff. We never used nut cleaners, hand removal was de-regure (sp?). A hand placed piton was and is clean (by B. Carson's definition). I always brought the best rack I could for "clean" climbing and to the best of my memory always included a few pitons, a baby of each size, a 3/4" and 1" angle, a couple of fat and long arrows, every hook made (back then that meant the standard Chouinard hook, maybe 2 of them), and crack-n-ups as soon as they were available (those things were GODlike).
Thanks for reminding me of those custom Mike Graham extra long hexes Mike lent us. No wonder I got good pro on the Doglegs. Thanks Mike!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
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I always heard rumors that some extra long hexentric sections were out there ahead of tube chocks but this is the first confirmation. Cool!
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Jun 30, 2011 - 02:16am PT
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Hey Mighty Hiker:
If you're editing the list of Sentinel Supertopians, add me in as an occasional poster. 1976 - man that was a long time ago. My first of 2 Steck Salathe ascents. Quite a day for us. Thanks for the memories Steve Grossman!
Eric Barrett
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Jun 30, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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Regarding Dave Dornan, I was in touch with him a little over 3 years ago. He is living in Michigan and his email at that time was dornand@hotmail.com
I'm attaching a photo of him from 1958.
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jstan
climber
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Jun 30, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
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Do you suppose some of the unreadable entries could be photoshopped?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
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John- I need to go back through and transcribe the faint pencil entries page by page. That should do it once I get a big magnifying glass!
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Axis
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 30, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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This is superb. Thanks for posting it.
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CaNewt
Mountain climber
Davis, CA
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Jun 30, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
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I really did enjoy reading through this. I climbed mostly in Yosemite in the late '60's. I particularly remember in 1966 wandering over to Pratt's site in Camp 4 to watch him conducting to Beethoven that was playing on his very small portable battery operated record player. Pratt was waiting for climbers to arrive for the weekend so he would have someone to climb with. I did a couple of Sentinel ascents with John Howard in '68 and John Svenson in '69.
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Jun 30, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
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Funny you should mention that. My wife, Debby, and I backpacked into the Cirque of the Towers in 1969, and as we approached the campsite, we heard music. It was Chuck Pratt conducting one of Beethoveen's Symphonies on his battery operated record player with a spoon while he fixed a dinner. Small World!
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Jun 30, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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Here are some of my favorite Sentinel Rock photos, showing the magnificence
of the rock. It shows many of the routes clearly.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 30, 2011 - 09:30pm PT
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Hi Ed
Pratt was in the Winds with Hennek and Mavis and I was there at the same time with my lady Carol, "dah judges daughter." We use to borrow his record player and carry LP albums with us but the biggest problem was that machine ate up batteries! Those were good times indeed. Now these "kids" have I Pods and the like. Have to admit I to have one. Sure beats lugging a pack full of LP records.
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Carmel Climber
Mountain climber
Carmel California
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Jun 30, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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It's amazing the all these early ascents were done for years by just a hand full of people (Chouinard, Robbins, Pratt ect) that could handle this type of climbing.
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Dennis Hennek
climber
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Chuck's favorite that summer was Beethoveen's Piano Concerto No. 5, the Emperor Concerto.
We packed six LP's and a ton of D batteries into the Cirque that summer.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 11:43am PT
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I'm sure that Norman Clyde would approve!
Substituting Beethoven for Plutarch, that is...
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Bruce Berryhill
Trad climber
Tulare California
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Would the custodian of this register consider allowing the Yosemite Climbing Association to archive the original register for safe keeping?
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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I heard a few inquiries as to the whereabouts of Will Tyree,whose actual name was Bill Cockerham(I'm still a bit unclear as to why he changed it).I climbed a bit with Will both here in Washington and Yosemite back in 71. Didn't see him again until 74 when he showed up in the valley after living on nothing, but fruit for the previous year. He showed all of the classic signs of malnutrition-distended belly, sunken chest. I wasn't back in the valley until 79 when out of the blue Will shows up. He was in a bad way-basically a homeless guy dumpster diving and even more bizarre than before. He said that he had been in the Army,stationed in Germany,but had gotten kicked out.He seemed to be on a rapid downward trajectory and I suspect if he's still alive he's living on the street somewhere.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Dave:
Thanks for the update on Will Tyree. Like others on this thread I wondered what happened to him.
Interesting what an impression he made on many of us.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
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Summit Bump!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Thanks to Ed Cooper's referral, I was able to contact Dave and Reade Dornan who are indeed living in Michigan. Super Topo reunites lost friends once again!
I'm hoping Dave will contribute to this thread and others eventually. Brokedownclimber just reminded me that Dave wrote the first guide book to Elodorado Canyon.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Legendary thread. Thanks much one and all.
D. Hennek wrote:
I can't remember all of the details of my climb of the Steck/Salathe with Pratt in 69. Needless to say, anyone who has climbed this route with Chuck was given the chance to share time with a someone who is one of the most natural climbers i've ever known. Chuck had done the route several times and said that all that we needed were 9 pins and two payday candy bars.
Deep satisfaction in learning that a personal hero of mine shared my taste in candy bars.
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