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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 31, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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wow.
between this thread and the wolves thread, there's enough material for a conference.
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climbingcook
Trad climber
sf
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May 31, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
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Can someone remind me what all this stupidity about light weight gear and the 900 year old curmudgeons who prefer to rack on ovals has to do with Kush's epic at the leap?
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climbingcook
Trad climber
sf
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May 31, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
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Maybe we can cover the full spectrum of SuperTopo stupidity and start arguing about how 5.15 sport routes are bullshit because they are bolted top-down instead of from stance like the crew here would do it.
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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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May 31, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
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There is no reason for pulling so many pieces when you are a leader on a pitch with bomber gear. With the low angle, and right leaning nature of that pitch, long slings should be used. Your first piece should also be a multi-directional so not to created a "zipper". As I tell all my clients, take it slow, learn to do it right, work through the grades, don't concentrate just on high ratings, and you will climb until you are old and crusty. The climbers who rush into leading either get scared or hurt.
At least these guys have a chance to "live and learn"!
this (from petch) is a pretty good version of what anam might write in the analysis section of this accident
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Phil Olinick
Boulder climber
There
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As much as I'd love to talk about my set of Stubai hollow D's (one left), I actually used exclusively for a while, or just joke around, this thread has a much more serious topic, which is being derailed. Maybe a little bit of biner talk isn't a bad idea. I'll have fun reading the dingus Dingus reply about the dinguses.
May 29, 2011 - 02:00am PT
There have been some false statements about climbing safety made in this thread, and elsewhere. This kind of disinformation has contributed to if not caused climbing accidents. Human life has been lost. People have been seriously injured. Medical and other bills have been incurred. Taxpayer money has been spent on federal and local rescue efforts, which could have been avoided.
If they do not investigate the origins of the disinformation about climbing safety, law enforcement agencies and prosecutors would be doing taxpayers an injustice, and indirectly contributing to the continued loss of life and injuries among climbers.
I recommend that the appropriate law enforcement agencies contact Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) and request a representative list of erroneous statements about climbing safety, which could be published on this website and used as a basis for criminal and civil investigations.
If anyone making these false statements has a conflict of interest due to personal profit (e.g., paid bloggers) then that too should be investigated.
There are so many things today now damaged by intentional disinformation. The affront to climbing is of particular interest, because knowledgable climbers can link the facts to the dead bodies. A known minority of climbers today understand those facts, and we can prove that many deaths and injuries should have been avoided. It's a good fight. Let's take it!
-Phil Olinick www.kornetzky.ch/GodNoSaySo phil@kornetzky.ch
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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F*#k off please.
Not about carabiners.
In no way is Kush's fall related to wire gated carabiners.
Start your own thread.
Jesus.
TC
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