Woodson - 2011

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gonamok

climber
aging malcontent
Jan 19, 2011 - 01:41am PT
Johann you ROCK! Fuk this pantywaist social baloney, hell yea Ive been on the hill lately. I cranked a daring TR ascent of Good for the soul and went one better than a sit start, I started from laying flat on my back. It was fully 5.10A and fully HEINOUS. Im writin a new guide just so I can put it in.

Im still good for March 19&20 Gary, I thought more people woulda checked in by now.
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Jan 19, 2011 - 02:00am PT
henny

Social climber
The Past
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 02:28am PT
I'm sure some people will check in for those dates. Hopefully it won't be another hot spell like the one we're going through right now.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 19, 2011 - 03:30am PT
You ain't gettin' my 20 until I'm there to be the judge...and I'm a stingy judge so ill be listenin' close!

Brad, you're fat dude! I'm inside the crack at that point!
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Jan 19, 2011 - 03:30am PT
It's snowing here, Henny, and sometimes snows here in March, so it sounds good. I hope I can come. I wish I could have made the others.

I want to apologize to you, Henny and the Forum if I was out of line, enjoying myself, with my brothers a little. You see, I live up here in Oregon now and have barely touched Woodson since I graduated from Poway High School in 1972. As far as we know, we were the first to really climb there, so we wrongly believe we are special. I don't post too often, but I read threads, especially climbing and climbing history ones. Some of the things we read on the Woodson threads and lots of other STthreads are pretty wierd to us. like "winter ascents of Open Book, and giving the finger really great and ball cuppin and all that. But it wasn't always just like that. But all in all we love it all. I like that shot of Woodward just upthread, right? - there's a real climber, as are you, Henny. Scared me though, seein' that boot so close to his fingers. A Poway Mountaineer would have stepped on those fingers! It's okay- his fingers are made of steel!

Check this: On Easter Sunday last year my son was visiting my brother in Ramona. It was my son's first time to Mt. Woodson. They went to a giant boulder near the top ( don't know which). My brother climbed it and my son was at the base and suddenly the earthquake hit! They said boulders were tottering, including the boulder he was on and that they heard many boulders crashing. Goodnight friends. Sorry -don't really do Facebopk. Photo posted above is Rick Piggot, circa 1970, one the first photos I ever printed. I post it out of respect! Bruce



illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 19, 2011 - 03:43am PT
Okay, time to focus...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi9AL8ztOMs
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 19, 2011 - 08:17am PT
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 19, 2011 - 08:31am PT
The face to the right, up the center is spooky. I've been up near the top but have not had the balls to go all the way, yet.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 11:56am PT
My OP still stands. Post whatever you feel like posting into this thread. Most threads have mini-threads within them that are tangents anyway. Have at it.

Brunosafari - Thanks for the cool picture of Piggot. If this year goes off at the mentioned dates it would be a huge bonus if Rick showed. He was, and I'm sure still is - regardless of what he's into now, one bad ass dude. Too bad he never had any intensity to go with it (hahaha). I always enjoyed it when I had chances to climb with him.

The current weather is consistently running mid 70's. It better break cause that's way to hot for this time of year. I know it sounds good opposed to snow, but it shuts down hard face (at least for me). I was up there the other morning and at 9:00 it was already out of control due to hot rock, sun glare, and the likes.

Doug - I was corresponding a bit with Eliot. Sounds like you have some good stuff going. I'd like to see some pictures when the time is right.

Bedford is light.

Edit: Oh yeah. All this talk about what is/isn't silly with respect to the Big Grunt... It's all irrelevant anyway, since it's silly to even think about doing that thing in the first place. Smoke that.
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Jan 19, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
For sure. What with the heinous descent, and all...
henny

Social climber
The Past
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
Yeah. What scuffy b said.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 19, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
If you guys do another gathering on March 19th/20th I'd most likely show up. That was fun last year meeting a few new people and I finally got on Hard as Nails. Was it Henny that onsight soloed it preceeding the shindig? I was inspired and did the same, so thanks! I wonder what other classics are hiding in the bushes that people can show me this year?

Anyone want to try Boulder 13? :)

Josh
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 19, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
Johannsolo,

I was poking around the old Woodson thread since it had a lot of cool stuff in it and found this from you:

Someone needs to show the youngsters how to belay. You could shoot an arrow of that rope it's so tight. Any tension on a TR is assistance and invalidates a free ascent. Is this where Pullharder.org gets its name from?

You sure like to slander other local climbers. The kids in the picture you reference in that quote are obviously not from pullharder.org. Not that it matters either way. Is this a jealousy thing, or are you pissed that I called you on your slander regarding Raindance? In any case, I don't know how much other slander you're throwing around, but I would appreciate an end to it. If you have a problem with my friends and I, I'd be curious to hear what it is.

Josh
henny

Social climber
The Past
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
I'm telling people, I thought that Piece of Mind was a totally killer deal - as long as one likes small holds. Up on top, just a short distance from the road. Way, way good. Don't know about an on-sight solo though, kind of gives me the gaaacks thinking about that (it's big and has bolts, so lead/TR - at least for most of us.) Even though it's easy to find if I gave directions you'd probably end up in Escondido, so I'll spare you. Find out where it is and check it out, it's well worth it.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 19, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
Josh: it's been years since I was on it, but is Boulder 13 accessible now?
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 19, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
It may be owned by the people with the house right next to the road, but I'm not sure. I haven't seen any no trespassing signs or confirmation that it is owned by anyone. There is a trail dropping down to it now (from tower 1?), or at least there was a few months ago. I went and checked it out. It looks heinous and makes me drool...

Josh
REIGN 1

Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 19, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
Henny wrote...."Bedford is light"

Henny I wish I was light. If I was then I could go back to the days when I owned you at woodson and other crags.....hahahahaha
Oh and KP tooooo

When are you heading back to woodson?
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 19, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
Thanks, Josh. It is heinous, but o so cool. My hands still bear scars from it from the 70s.
p-owed

Social climber
Ramona ca
Jan 19, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
I chopped my way in to boulder 13 in October. from the bolder just before Sunday afternoon But my buddy's wimped out so we climbed to anther rock instead.
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Jan 19, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
I'm sorry too Henny. And thanks for the heads up on the lightweight.
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