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ericdehaven
Sport climber
los angeles
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Jul 31, 2011 - 11:43am PT
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Pyro,
We hit up corpse wall yesterday. Not a bad little piece of rock.
Question though, do you park at the lookout or drive up the seemingly abandoned private road to the water tower and park there?
Its a shame that the private community on the other side is gated, otherwise that would be a much nicer walk.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 31, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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E-man i park right off the stunt rd. that place is a shame! original founder named that place saddlepeak slab!
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 31, 2011 - 03:57pm PT
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Sewellymon-
I had a cabin in Frazier Park in the late '80's. I do recall about a 100' darkish slab up there on one of the roads near Pine Mtn. Visible briefly from the road- somewhere closer to the desert side.
Here's a flash of Bob Dominick on the formerly obscure Mt. Williamson (used to call it Dome Rock) when there were but a few routes. Phil Gleason and I went up there to climb it in the early '60's and got to near the top in a dense fog. Visibility was about 10'. He lead up anyway on something on the upper formation. Must have been about 60-80'of friction. I was surprised when I got to the belay and he hadn't used any pro. It's a sport route now.
The Gleasons and I would plod up Eaton Canyon with a 50' piece of goldline that we had gleaned from a Munglenoose meeting, looking for climbs, and found an impass at a waterfall with a piton stuck in a large log. We surmised it "possibly" was John Muir's, since we read in his autobiography that he had explored Eaton Canyon. We were kids, what did we know?
Was that former post of a group of boulders near the headwaters of Bear Creek? Dominick and I did some routes in Cascade Canyon which, in retrospect, and given all the new gear, might have some actual possibilities. Interesting chert caliche (sp?) formations and red rock.
KL
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Didn't they film the opening scene in "Vagina Monolgues" there?
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ericdehaven
Sport climber
los angeles
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yeah right huh..
Looks a bit like it..
besides the vaginal reference the area, though saying its closed on the page has activity as I have read a few places of people doing the routes up till 3 or 4 months ago, but no specific location info.. Looks really cool. Even if its not climbable it would be great to check out
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Just one of the reasons, Jeff, that I moved up here where solid is more accessible. Though it's getting crowded here too. Thanks for responding.
KL
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Didn't they film the opening scene in "Vagina Monolgues" there?
I thought that was here...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Eric-D ~ That photo is from another "Bat Cave", which is in Woodland Hills under the south face of Castle Peak. Castle Peak is at the entrance of Bell Canyon, an affluent, gate-guarded community between Woodland Hills and the Santa Susana Laboratories where the worst nuclear accident in US history took place in the late 1950's. The route pictured is "European Vacation" and is 5.12b and is solid for the grade. It is rather good pulling on a very steep wall.
The Bat Cave AKA Tony's Mud Cave, is found by parking on Vanoven, just
west of Valley Circle Blvd. You hike thru the gate & proceed 1/2 mile back to a fence line. From here you can see the cave off to the right, it looks like a crescent moon. It's a sandstone conglomerate in which there has been eons of calcarious deposition making a limestone like surface on some of the climbs. There are tufas ,huecos & other cool features that make for some great steep climbing. There are also some lesser quality lines that have a slit like powdered layer on them that is not so good.
The area is worth a visit if you enjoy 5.11 to 5.12+ climbing. The easier routes are generally not very good IMHO. It is open as far as I know. It's only about 1 mile from my work. When it cools down, I'll take a look & see if there are any access problems & post up here what I found out.
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ericdehaven
Sport climber
los angeles
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Levy,
Thank you for the info. I will probably take a hike up there in the next week or two and post what I see. I figured it was up in that general direction as I used to scramble up around there when I was a kid and it looked somewhat familiar. We even used to try to sneak in and around the old missile facility because as kids there were tons of great conspiracy stories surrounding it. Last year I hiked to a few of the old titan silos in the hills around LA. A strange cold war era throwback.
You seem to have a good bit of knowledge about the chatsworth area, so I have another question. I was speaking with some of my friends who regular stoney and asked if anyone has recently hiked up to some of the large walls visible above Chatsworth park, and the answer of course was "all choss" but no one I know had been up recently, then I read that there are some bolted routes even in the park itself.
Have you been up in the hills there at all?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Eric-D I'll drop you a line to your e-mail.. You can call me to discuss matters further.
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joeblow
climber
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So levy, I don't get it, which part of fight club are struggling with? It's pretty well known, Tony doesn't want the info out. How would you like it if directions to your semi secret new area were posted? Do the right thing and pull that info.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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JoeBlow-hard,
Since when does Tony not want info about the area to get out?
Tony has never said anything to me about wanting to keep it on the down low.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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KSolem,
They filmed the closed scene there - Duh!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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I just found this route. I had to trundle some football sized rocks off it but other than that it's solid. It needs some brushing too.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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I just read this whole thread and really want to play.
I got somethin'.
Good climbing out here, different view seen upthread.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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So now the Mojave is SoCal? :-)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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It's eastern so cal.
One time I hiked all around behind the Fang, up and down a series of parallel corridors. I saw some of the most mind blowingly good rock I have ever seen. It was super well featured. It looked like a mix of the Needles, El Cap and Josh. I believe it MIGHT have been a closed area though. Bighorn mating and such going on out there.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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http://www.bigwall.com/scag_lac.html
Some of these have been brought up on here. Like Baldy, Stoney, Millard, and Eaton, but has anyone been to Rocky Peak or Box Canyon? I went to the Box Canyon boulder like a year ago and it was covered in moss, had 1/4 leapers, and no anchors at the top so I was over it.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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T-Fish, Didn't you recently climb the Eagle Rock? Any pictures?
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