Unclimbed big wall in northern california

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Messages 141 - 160 of total 178 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 1, 2010 - 01:50am PT
I wanna see more of those signs........
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Sep 1, 2010 - 02:01am PT
holy crap, i was just planning a trip down there in october.

is there a place near milsap where i wont run into any freaks?

yeah, the class 5 rapids are no fun in a tube unless the water is just a trickle.

looks looks there could be some injuns, meth heads and weed farmers down in those thickets,

you entering indian, you beware,
nita

Social climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
Sep 1, 2010 - 02:45am PT
Timid is sleeping... so i decided to put up two of his sign photos... If you go to this area and hear banjo music..start hiking faster.
ec

climber
ca
Sep 1, 2010 - 04:44am PT
Stonewalker,
Read the posts. John Bald said he climbed it BITD. I'd believe him. No doubt, you still have an annoying way 'bout you Stonewalker. (the predictive text on my phone says 'Stonewalled' a sign?)

John, what did you do on it?

 ec
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 1, 2010 - 05:27am PT
Make sure to wear a chastity belt and leave the key at home before tubing through them parts... those pics give me the jeebers.
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Sep 1, 2010 - 10:11am PT
ec, John Bald said that he'd "explored" the wall BITD but that he'd never climbed the "whole thing".
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Sep 1, 2010 - 10:38am PT
i'm having a hard time finding this thing on either the USGS topo or google earth.

the cliffs across the middle feather from bald rock dome look pretty good on google earth, which doesn't always get it right. however, i'm assuming the area in question is on the same side.

there are two watercourses that might fit the gulley in the pics, one immediately adjacent to BRD but trending NE, the other about a mile to the north. neither one shows up as more and better climbing than BRD--very little in the topo lines approaching vertical.

access? something called gerry creek indian reservation shows at certain resolutions. there's an "indef bdry" of a national wild and scenic river area for the whole canyon. i hear banjos playing.

feather falls cliffs look quite extensive on google earth. any climbing there? i-tools aren't always what they're cracked up to be, but then neither are supertopo reports.
ec

climber
ca
Sep 1, 2010 - 10:43am PT
But he did climb on it. More than any of us...
 ec
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Sep 1, 2010 - 11:22am PT
i'll probably never get up there, ec, unless it turns out to be some primo slab venue. just playing armchair here. i like a good mystery.

we've got mr. stonewalk down to the nitty gritty, and angle becomes the big question. if it isn't pitched steep enough, it isn't climbing. photos just won't show it, you do have to be there. he sounds credible enough and has friends or co-conspirators involved. he'd be losing face if he had to admit it's not quite what he's cracked it up to be, but he should know he's among fellow climbers and he really shouldn't feel that way. exploration R us.

the big strike against him is that this area is immediately adjacent to a crag that has been climbed since 1960 which has been thoroughly developed and its established routes published in guidebooks and on the internet. with that kind of local interest, it's hard to conceive that no one wanted to go next door and start doing something bigger and prettier. the allegation here is 10 pitches of great climbing versus four on bald rock dome.

looking back over those pics, i'm seeing lots of low-angle and--hahaha--still only about three pitches on the steep.

i went through this on pine mountain in the san gabriels many long years ago. if the setting sun catches that sucker right you'll see a big, shining face of rock from across the way on a baden-powell hike. just had to check it out. long day, big hike in up a dry watercourse, finally got to the foot of a couple pitches of shiny gneiss. it was one of the few times i wish i had pitons--knife blades would have worked well in the tight seams instead of my tenuous stopper placements. if it had been granite, it might have been challenging face climbing. gneiss is so gritty it made the friction game a giveaway. seven miles of tough hiking for a ho-hum 5.7.
fearless second

Social climber
Chico, CA
Sep 14, 2010 - 11:34pm PT
Anyone ever climb the original Bald Rock Canyon route? Not a route on the dome proper but the route out of the canyon. Nelson and Rears circa 1960. Sounds like a full day of fun.
BooDawg

Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
Sep 15, 2010 - 04:08am PT
Very interesting thread on several levels.

Since there is still some speculation, at least by those who haven't been in to see the site, about just where it is, those i-phone pix are geotagged, unless that function has been deliberately turned off, so if one knows how, he/she can probably get the coordinates from those pix.
Bargainhunter

Mountain climber
Central California
Sep 15, 2010 - 04:25am PT
Could someone please post a pic of the nutbar who made those signs?
LaMont

Social climber
The Mine Shaft
Sep 18, 2010 - 10:24pm PT
Hope to see more photos Mike.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 7, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
Pinkley: Where are you from, son?
Soldier: Bald Canyon, California, sir!
Pinkley: Never heard of it.


Lot's of rock in this world, even in overcrowded places like Cali there may be some unclimbed stuff. Back in the 1970s I and several others did a lot of exploring around Mt Diablo, Napa and Sonoma, Highway 108/Donnell's etc. For some reason, I wanted to find a 'new' area, do some FAs and be noticed, so to speak, attention junkie or something, but seriously, developing a new area can be challenging, invigorating, tiresome and all the rest.

Now it really doesn't really matter to me if somebody has been to a climbing area before me, what matters is that it is an enjoyable place to climb with good people and good rock (and good weather, which we have enjoyed in Ireland the past few days and I have climbed in the Quarry to take advantage of the good weather).

And as few rattlers as possible or any of their brethren. But those signs do indicate that there may be some human rattlers in the area.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Oct 7, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
Stonewalker, have you been back recently? What's the latest?
cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Oct 7, 2010 - 05:45pm PT
ooohhh, fun thread!
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Oct 27, 2010 - 08:01pm PT
Checking in to see if any routes have been done yet...ya'll seemed pretty psyched about this one, an update would be nice, considering all the talk about abundant route potential and stellar granite.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Oct 27, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
Stone Walker that sh#t is awesome......Let's get it on Email me.
pbernard02

Trad climber
Chester, CA
Jan 2, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
So this looks like the exact same wall, but I can't tell exactly where it is. Google earth is a good way to scope it out, but it's still hard to get a good bearing. Has anyone ever done a second ascent on this? Are there any other routes on this. Stonewalker, did you guys finish a line?

I'm in the process of creating a guide for NE California and am including all of the climbing in Feather River Canyon. Anyone with information to pass on would be much appreciated.

Paul

PS. If you want more info about the guide or other areas up here, do a forum search for Northeast California.

edejom

Boulder climber
Butte, America
Jan 2, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
Looks like a nice variant would starting lower and to the right--following those "cracks" to their circled dot, then proceed up that featured "headwall" left of their line.

'jus chimin' in tho--looks like a grand adventure at the least, hope to see what get done further at this place.


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