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GILL
climber
Minden, NV
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Feb 11, 2012 - 01:11am PT
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Woodfords thread is awful quiet for the winter we've been having
Anyone know about the small canyons above Mama Cat and Big Bertha boulders?
I think there are about 4 small canyons. Anyone know there names?
The more eastern ones, close to Deadwood Canyon, have walls that are nice and tall!
Hiked up there a few times. Took 45-60 minutes depending how much I was wondering around looking at cool rock.
The canyon directly above the big gravel parking lot on the south side of the hwy has a real nice wall about 400' tall. It has a huge roof system in the middle of the wall about 200' up. There was a bolt and an escape biner 30' up on the left side of the wall. It was above a discontinuous finger crack. Looked scary. One hell of a drilling stance. Anyone know anything?
My climbing partner and I did a route in one of the crack systems that led us pretty far right of the huge roofs. It took us to the big ledge 200' up. This ledge spands almost the whole wall. We went left and scrambled up a gully to the summit. Great view!!! When we came down we went back to the right on the big ledge and rapped off a 10' pine tree. Noticed a few chalk marks on the rap. Someone TRing from the tree I guess? Looked like you could scramble up to the tree from the ground on the far right of the wall.
So the route we did was really dirty, has big bushes that we climbed through, and has a few loose blocks. We want to go and clean it. My big deal is I don't want to step on anyone's feet. If anyone knows anything about this area let me know on this tread or PM me. I'll try to get some good pics next time I go up there.
Thanks
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Feb 24, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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With the horrendous backcountry snow conditions for the weekend, we are thinking of going to woodfords for some easy peasy climbing on sunday...we are out of climbing shape. Anyone going to be there this weekend. We did left and right branch last summer on our way back from the eastside, but that was about it. Hoping to hit up the northside of the road this time, but a little mystified about what area has the most easy .6-.9's. The pdf guide is pretty limited in this area, but thinking they must lurk out there. I assume the authors were just not too interested. Should we just wander around the fortress trying to pick off 4th class climbs, hoping to score something only slightly harder. Hoping to do just a bit of exploring in the sun, and avoid the soon to form water ice and wind all over the backcountry. Sugestions?
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Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
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Feb 24, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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There are only a couple climbs established in that grade range up there. I would suggest Luther Spires which gets great afternoon sun and which has been quite warm of late, with not much snow on the trail in. It's in the SLT Supertopo guide. However latest forecast shows cold arriving sooner than expected with temps dropping tomorrow and wind affecting the whole area. If at Woodfords, perfect lieback jumps to mind or there is another 5.8 way left of there in the books area, but it's a lot of hiking for limited climbing in those grades, not to mention the last time I was up there, just a couple weeks ago those climbs were mobbed. My 2 cents.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Feb 24, 2012 - 05:11pm PT
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yeah, perfect layback definitely came to mind. I just figured, there is so much rock around there, there might by some crags that are lower angle with 4th class and up, depending on what you pick. Looking up the hills there is just too much rock not to hold plenty of easy climbing.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Feb 24, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
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Cookie cliff area looks promising just because not much is invested from a time situation.
I don't mind walking or figuring or bushwacking (most likely the case), I just want to maximize my chances for a successful climbing day, complete with a solid workout. Last time we were there, we ended up spending more time trying to find stuff than climbing (hence only two climbs...actually really just one with two different finishes). Maybe we will tick off a few climbs near cracker cliff first to ensure some climbing. After a couple pitches, maybe we will just try to pick an easy rock and see if there are some easy cracks that go. Things lower down the canyon as it opens up look like they have some seriously easy faces. Granted you have to climb a 500ft tall kitty litter dune...
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Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
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Feb 24, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
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what's up with those "other" areas Ron? do you have more detail on the cliffs between the fortress and suicide falls? I hiked all the way up the canyon passing the penile pillar (what's that insanely beautiful crack on the east side of that?!!) and crossed the canyon, to the east, continued up and right, crossing another canyon where I came accross a face that faces west with some longish cracks on it. Scoped that out and continued down where in a large alcove came across some anchors above a crazy overhanging feature.....any info appreciated!!!
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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Feb 24, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
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How bad is the rock in suicide falls area? Is it worth it? 4 pitches sounds pretty nice to me. Is the R for bad rock or for easy runout face? Got a topo, all I see is a description.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Feb 24, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
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Justin,
There's a couple of good moderates past the second alcove. I don't know if they're in the PDF, but there's a great 5.7 hand crack, a cool 5.9 finger crack and a funky 5.8 offwidth. I'd be happy to show you but i'm gonna try to get some skiing in this weekend. If it stays warm, email me and I'd be happy to cruise up to the Canyon with you.
Eric
shiva5277@hotmail.com
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Manimal
climber
SLT, Ca
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Thanks Ron. It's nice to know there is plenty of adventure and fresh stone in the back yard, even in 2012. I hiked out to Pleasant Valley a couple summers having seen a blurb somehwere's and saw some beautiful stone. Didn't know how accommodating the fishing reserve folks are so parked up the road a way. Is that eally private property to the trail head? Is there an alternative approach from Grover side?
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Meagher
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 27, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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Never been to Woodfords to climb, but after driving by it thousands of times and thinking it looked like a good place to climb, I am thinking about heading there to check it out soon. From reading this forum it sounds like there is climbing on both the North and South side of the road is that correct?
At this point I am pretty out of shape so I am looking for the routes the easier side, any recommendations? Anything about the area, approach, parking that I should be aware of before I go?
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GILL
climber
Minden, NV
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Mar 29, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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What part of the canyon is Bandit Crag at?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Mar 29, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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Ron I have the topo to bandit if your around your shop I'll drop it by today.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Mar 29, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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This is bandit buttress. Heading west from Woodford station about half a mile there is a huge parking area on the left. Park there. Head across the highway and you should find a well defined trail. There are four bolted climbs on it. Ill try to get the topo on it later. To the left is a 5.7-5.8 bolted crack (A break in security)...(I didnt do it so leave it alone) It is actually a really good place to teach trad leading as if they get nervous there is a bolt to clip instead of gear. Middle route is 5.8 bolted (Prowler). It shares and anchor with the next climb to the right of it at 5.9 (cat burglar). Around the side is a 4 bolt 5.10 (Cervazas in Zapata Land) All FA by Brian Chandler and Larry Van Sant
Theme is "leave the gear and bring the beer"
70 Meter rope is needed expecially for "break in security"
There is a trad route further to the right of Cervezas in Zapata land I put up in 2008 5.8 R that follows a corner system to the top. No anchor with a walk off. FOLLOF (Fear of Love Love of Fear
The gulley to the left of Bandit Buttres is a 3 route trad wall called April Fools wall. Put up by Dan Kennedy and Myself 4-1-08
You can see it to the left in the above picture
Anchors are below the tallest point where Dan is hanging out
Dirty 5.8 to the left
Middle crack 5.10 (where the pig is in the pic)
Right crack is 5.9
Can be run out before the anchors. Place a small cam at your feet on a ledge or you run it our 20+ feet to anchors.
Enjoy
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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What are the routes on the back of one of these days? a bolted face, a red tagged bolt, short dihedral and some stuff across the gully
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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All I hear is woodfords, woodfords, woodfords now I need a little info and nata. has the woodfords crew lost interest?
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Finally got on "one of these days" today. Great route, even though I missed the onsight by about 10 feet. I'll be back:)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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That's definately an awesome route and there are many other cool lines around I'm trying to get a hold of a topo for some of the surrounding routes. Tomorrow afternoon I think will just climb what looks good and figure it out later.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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There were a few folks climbing on the cliff directly across the creek from One of these days. Don't know what they were on but it looked pretty fun.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Yeah, Climbed over there on sun. The routes we did were a bit dirty but fun.
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