Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
midarockjock
climber
USA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
|
"The Photo is of Duck Soup."
Fogarty,
I know I have done this climb. Is that the 5.10(c) left of 10K gold
and even further left of Serpentine? White Line Fever I do not remember
as a route name on Weeping Wall though Duck Soup I remember. I really
have not used or looked in that red book since the early 90's and the 5.10(c)
was not R, however these other 2 were probably both deserving.
Did they have a name for the direct version (straight up) of 10K gold?
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
|
I have a good friend who fell from about 3' above a 3/8'' compression bolt last year, on a route somewhere in the South Platte. The f*#kin bolt sheered off in the hole, and what should have been no big deal, turned into a 40' crash-landing nightmare. He came away with no broken bones, but he was all beat up for months. Couldn't really climb for about a year afterward actually. Anyway, watch out for those hammer-ins...ya just never know if they're any good.
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
|
I know people are hopped up on glue-ins and sh#t but..a good 3/8" rawl (powers) x 2 1/4" is a pretty good bolt. Strong, cheap and won't shear unless you really over torque it.
When i was building my house, The dude at the building supply house wanted to sell me some sh#t. I said "these work pretty good for climbing so..." So 6x6 posts anchored with above mentioned bolts- seems ok to me.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
|
In good rock, an expansion bolt like the 5 piece Rawl is ideal. For one thing unless the bolt is very corroded it is relatively easy to replace in the same hole.
Compression bolts like the 3/8 buttonheads suck.
For some reason the 5/16 buttons work very well but require skill and experience to place well.
Speaking of Esto Power (.10d-r) ...
|
|
midarockjock
climber
USA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
|
"^^^ A proper safety meeting is necessary."
A statutory basis for a public agency filing should pay.
Do you want me to check?
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
|
Midarock-
I really gotta say I dig you actually posting some climbing related replies.
Keep up the good work.
|
|
midarockjock
climber
USA
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
|
mucci,
your welcome.
If serious contact me via email. We will discuss a state not
US agency along with the number of member employees to prevent
a conflict of interest charge which carries a forever not life
penalty.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
|
^^^
That's the 5.12x bridge, there is a modest 5.9 variation to the right 2oo yards.
|
|
midarockjock
climber
USA
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
|
mucci,
You got it. 12 could be the safety net but i'm not certain a public agency
would be feasible even with provision? 9 is short.
|
|
Fogarty
climber
BITD
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
|
Kris, Nice photo,
Esto power, I need to get on that one. (No Beta Needed)
Thnks.
|
|
Mittens
climber
|
|
on my redpoint of the grack, I was so pumped that I had to run it out 10 feet over a red camalot in a crack that wasn't 100% parallel sided!
|
|
Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
|
|
This thread makes my hands sweat. It seems like most of the good routes in Tuolumne have a lot of runout. So many good ones mentioned.
I have been scared on plenty of easy ones.
|
|
Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
|
|
Anyone climb Ochre Fields?
Yes. That's a good one. ;) Lots of others on GPA we did in the 80's that were way runout and 1/4" bolts.
Cheap Way to Die at Joshua Tree comes to mind. All I had was a cam under the roof in some coarse loose grit. If I hadn't of turned that 10b roof I was sure I would have decked (from about 100').
Direct start to Mechanics Route at Tahquitz was pretty dicey... got like one tiny wired nut in for that approx 75'... if I remember right. Still haven't emailed Gaines about maybe getting it in the guidebook... but it's only been 20 years, not like I'm slow, or anything. lol
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
Add an X to any climb!
Just leave that rope and gear behind!
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
|
|
Pitch 6, The Warrior. Not too hard, technically; but not much protection on the pitch either.
|
|
Double D
climber
|
|
Black Primo, Space Babble and Hoosers Highway get my vote.
|
|
Fogarty
climber
BITD
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 02:30am PT
|
Bea1'st, Tree fall, sounds like a story of an old friend of ours, thanks for the share. F
Has Burning Down The House had a second ascent?
|
|
hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2011 - 06:16am PT
|
i don't know if sandstone slabs ever clean up with wear, but i thought the fine grit on the final top out pitches of levitation 29 added real spice. i wasn't begging for pro as much as for that secure feeling under foot, or maybe just a sign that i wasn't way off route, which might have been the case. glad we chose to go over the top though.
if we had rapped, my clearest memory of the route would have been that clipping bolts kind of distracted from a pretty nice sequence through the crux. i know it was a freed aid line but it brings up a benefit of sparse pro. a few sear marks get left on the meat brain
|
|
wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
|
Grey Ghost in 2010. Don't want to fall on first pitch. Royal Robbins was a super-bad a@#! Beautiful climb....
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!