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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Sep 19, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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That's not pretty. Is that what you call a bashie? Is that destruction (clearing out the mud around it) warranted?
I'll stick to free with the (too) occasional hang for a rest. But if I were to get into real aid I'd find out how to make the best style work.
Thanks for the police work guys. The towers rule!
Arne
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Sep 19, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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ionlyski,
No not a bashie. It's a Black Diamond Pecker, probably the midsize unit. It all looks totally typical for the Fishers. Looks like it's gonna be a scary placement, but ends up being pretty bomber. And yes, the removing of loose fluff is normal, too. This ain't El Cap....
At some point in the hammering process you're wasting your time keeping on hitting. If you keep going when your arm is tired you can mis-hit and loosen or bend the pin. Precision counts for a lot.
Otherwise, he's doing okay. In fact it looks great. I want some......
Only unusual thing is the spacing. He's hammering at arm's reach above him, yet the previous pin is at his face. Why doesn't he move up one step? He could get a better look at what he's doing, it would make the hammering easier, maybe he could even reach way higher again with the same piton?????????
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Sep 19, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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Thanks Steve. I'm learning. Yeah, I felt my arm tiring just watching and I wondered why he hammered so long.
Arne
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madboIter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Wow, that video clip explains SO much! And I can see now that I really need to issue an apology to the whole climbing community. I am shamed!
That video clip proves to me that we should leave climbing to the professionals! Don't try this at home, kids. I know I've learned MY lesson, sadly, too late!
Amateurs just think wrong. See, like me. I can see that now.
For the first time, I can see some of the huge mistakes I was making on the SA of Weak Sauce. One point for SURE: The whole time I wasn't driving placements DEEP enough, and that was because I was looking for placements that were clearly (to me now) impossible to use.
I was standing on placements (off to the side of the, now obviously, necessary hole ladder) that were, now obviously, not even usable! How STUPID and arrogant of me! I was thinking that 1/8-inch of a pecker tip was okay, so, foolishly, I was STANDING on such things! What was I thinking? I see now that professionals don't DO that, and for good reason!
HOW such placements were working is now completely beyond me. I never realized that professionals just don't use such things... that unless you can get a pecker in ALL the way (and then some), you just don't use it! And, when in doubt (and some of those pecker tips did cause me some doubt), the professionals just pound on the placement some more. Doubt-pound, doubt-pound... until the placement just disappears into the rock.
See, the professionals just KNOW things that we amateurs can't know. That's why they are professionals!
Wow, I would have just stayed COMPLETELY "on route" had I realized.... And, of course, that would have meant that I just couldn't DO the thing. Just too professional for me! I see that now.
I am so, so sorry for my arrogance that could have EVER led me to imagine that I was up to that, professional, caliber of climbing. Can there be any forgiveness?
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Sep 19, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
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from the webpage:
"David Palmada agradece el apoyo para poder realizar esta actividad a sus patrocinadores Fixe, Arcteryx, La Sportiva, C.E. Montserrat, Raiders y Totem Cams."
there is a list of sponsors.
of course, Aslaksen sponsored by PBR and Natty Lite.
(this all goes back to climbing for sponsors and title vs love of adventure- and drinking beer.)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 19, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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Damn, he must be sum kinda badazz if the Raiders sponser him! Whoa!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Sep 19, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
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Just drive some big old ring shank duplex nails into the sawed off dowels. Viola, instant pro.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 19, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
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of course, Aslaksen sponsored by PBR and Natty Lite.
I think he Rides the Tiger too:
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 19, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
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Worst display of an aid move I have ever seen.
Uses a daisy like a poof too.
I place full blame on his local gym.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Sep 19, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
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Why does every piece get the heavy metal devil horn treatment?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Sep 19, 2012 - 08:02pm PT
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^^^ Because nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Sep 19, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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And that makes this thread's Monty Python reference #5!
...3.
Reference #3!
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 19, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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When I was in Mali Africa climbing this tower that the Spaniards did I come to the Off Width crack.
They drilled a blot ladder next to it all the way to the belay because they couldn't lead it free nor had the gear to aid it.
Way homo.
Why climb way homo?
Just bail instead and and say you're no good instead of climbing like a inquisitor to conquer.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Sep 19, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
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Why climb way homo?
All time favorite Werner quote.
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jeff_m
Social climber
700' up
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Sep 19, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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Second that. Haha!
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MisterE
Social climber
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Sep 20, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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You all need to back off on calling this "Climbing".
This is vertical destruction of the very worst kind.
An ego-driven construct of unfamiliar minds,
ruining history for their own satiation.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Sep 20, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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+1000 Mister E
Edit: Forgot +1000 Werner
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:05am PT
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Well, I see everything is about American National Ego...
Someone who has repeated "Intifada" and "Weird Science" among other routes in the Towers, who has opened new routes in Baffin or in the Towers in addition of non expansion aid climbing routes in Europe (which are waiting the Jensen's or other American parties SA), who has repeated all the hardest aid climbing in Spain (see Naranjo de Bulnes, for instance) and has stablished aid climbing speed records, deserves a little bit less of prejudice, although your American ego makes it hard (as hard as the appropriate protection of the Embassies and their Ambassadors, by the way).
And to Paul (who seems the only to have a reasoning vision), all the absolute reasonable questions you do should be answered for the FA team (I repeat that I DO NOT talk in the name of Pelut), but what I say is that Jensen didn't had any intention of answering this questions, otherwise he would have been really interested in having a meeting with them when they were in the Towers last summer and talk about the route or at least answer the posts on his web page... I'm sure a rational person would have acted like this and for sure wouldn't have bolted other's route under a so weak pretext (only a disturbed person or a ego-wounded carry out an action like this). I encourage you to persuade Jeremy to publish the result of his coming trip to the Towers as regards to Weird Science and Pelut & Ester's new route on Kingfisher.
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raymond phule
climber
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:24am PT
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Well, I see everything is about American National Ego...
The thing that you do not seem to understand is that the route (according to Jensen's blog and pictures) clearly goes against the aid climbing ethics that exist in the US. It is not about national ego but about the fact that manufactured difficulty (drilled hooks, drilled bashies, drilled wooden pegs etc) is considered bad there. The standard is that you should not drill if it is not necessary and if you have to you should fill it with a rivet or bolt.
but what I say is that Jensen didn't had any intention of answering this questions, otherwise he would have been really interested in having a meeting with them when they were in the Towers last summer and talk about the route or at least answer the posts on his web page...
and you know that Jensen read those questions in August?
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:47am PT
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Read ancient posts about if Jensen read or not Pelut's answers on his websites (objective facts clearly indicate so!).
And about the ethics, I do not defend Look out, danger! (although it's hard to me to belive that knowing Pelut, he did a mess like Jensens claims), but everybody in this thread was laughing at FA team and showing absolute perjudice and says nothing about the retobolting Richy did on the route...
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