Cerro Torre, A Mountain Consecrated - The Resurrection of th

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enzolino

climber
Galgenen, Switzerland
Feb 7, 2012 - 04:59am PT
There is a famous case where the claims of a climber were not consistent to what other people witnessed: Tomo Cesen.

Among his claimed achievements a lot of doubts have been raised, especially towards his solo ascent of No Siesta in Grand Jorasses, North Face of Jannu and Lothse South face .

I wonder why so much fierceness against Maestri, just because his claims were not consistent with what other people found?

Adopting Donini's nasty ethical standards I would ask Mr Donini.
Why so much hate?
Are you envious of something?
Did Maestri hurt you or offend you?
enzolino

climber
Galgenen, Switzerland
Feb 7, 2012 - 05:16am PT
@bhilden,
I seem to remember an American climber who did a lot of bolting in Yosemite.

-He took 58 days to force a route up El Capitan

-He drilled a 200+ foot bolt ladder on blank rock to make a first ascent on the Leaning Tower

-He tried to bolt his way up the south face of Half Dome, but had to be rescued

-He drilled 300+ bolts to put up a first ascent on El Capitan

He was considered a living legend and his death was mourned by the entire climbing community.

My point is that you might be upset at Maestri because you feel he lied about his 1959 ascent of Cerro Torre, but even we Americans have climbers who have done a lot of what some might consider forced lines that were overbolted. However, they were ultimately accepted and welcomed into our climbing community.
Nice and honest post!!!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 7, 2012 - 05:59am PT
Enzolino

I don't see the nasty ethical standards you see in Mr Donini. I don't see hate and I don't see envy.

My suggestion:
Accept Donini's observations on CT. They are a valuable part of CT history. But you don't have to accept the conclusions Donini draws based on his observations. His observations are as close as we ever get to observable facts as long as Maestri doesn't speak, but Donini's conclusions based on the observable facts are not evidence beyond every possible doubt. My view is that we should let the small amount of possible doubt that remains talk to Maestri's advantage. That doesn't mean that we have to accept that Maestri and Egger summited. The degree of consciousness argument could be applied.

In my view attacking Donini for having nasty ethical standards is adding to the polarizing polemics that we see at times in this thread.

A good post from Bhilden.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 7, 2012 - 06:08am PT
Randisi

Facing death we are all impoverished nerds.
uli__

climber
Milan, Italy
Feb 7, 2012 - 06:19am PT
@randisi

even if foradaiball asked me not to translate you have ever been polite and so here it is

Quelli che dicono che di sicuro Maestri non è salito, sono solo dei poveri nerds, dei perdenti, dei senza palle, che non sanno riconoscere la forza di chi li ha battuti.

"those who affirm that surely Maestri didn't summit are only poor nerds, loosers, "ballsless"? that can't acknowledge the force of whom preceded them there"

(this translation is not my own thinking on that matter)
enzolino

climber
Galgenen, Switzerland
Feb 7, 2012 - 06:53am PT
I don't see the nasty ethical standards you see in Mr Donini. I don't see hate and I don't see envy.
@Marlow,
My suggestion:
Accept Donini's observations on CT. They are a valuable part of CT history. But you don't have to accept the conclusions Donini draws based on his observations. His observations are as close as we ever get to observable facts as long as Maestri doesn't speak, but Donini's conclusions based on the observable facts are not evidence beyond every possible doubt. My view is that we should let the small amount of possible doubt that remains talk to Maestri's advantage. That doesn't mean that we have to accept that Maestri and Egger summited. The degree of consciousness argument could be applied.

In my view attacking Donini for having nasty ethical standards is adding to the polarizing polemics that we see at times in this thread.

A good post from Bhilden.
Bhilden highlighted implicitely the double standard used for Warren Harding vs Cesare Maestri.
Personally I don't believe Donini's observations are free from emotional detachment, and I think that they are excessively nasty. This is my view. I don't care if the polemic will escalate.

Now a new document has been published where the KKK chopping has been heavily criticized.
THE TALEBANS OF CERRO TORRE

http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=39126

In few days has been signed by many Italian climbers including top climbers and alpine guides.

Maybe there is only one positive aspect in this whole story. That climbing is less than ever a local affair and that globalization is affecting the vertical world more than ever. Let's see what is gonna happen.
Possibly the document will be translated in english and will collect more signatures from all over the world.
uli__

climber
Milan, Italy
Feb 7, 2012 - 08:03am PT
@enzolino
Possibly the document will be translated in english and will collect more signatures from all over the world.

here it is

http://alpinesketches.wordpress.com/2012/02/07/taliban-on-cerro-torre/
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 7, 2012 - 09:19am PT
Calling the cleanup crew Taliban is pretty funny given the absolute fanaticism necessary to defend Maestri and his indefensible bolts.
The cad

climber
Does it matter, really?!?
Feb 7, 2012 - 09:19am PT
@randisi
You decide
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:31am PT
If they had chopped a bolt ladder in the USA put up by an American, would even a single person in Italy give a flying f*ck? Much less formulate some ridiculous petition with laughable comparisons to the Taliban.
The cad

climber
Does it matter, really?!?
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:49am PT
LOL
If some <name a nationality> had chopped a bolt ladder anywhere in the world put up by an American, how many Americans would support the chopping?

Pointless.
tarek

climber
berkeley
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:57am PT
Vilifying Maestri or K&K seems an avoidance of the main issue: do we hold anything sacred in the natural world? It seems only a distraction to focus on the actors here. To Cerro Torre, it's irrelevant who did what, who lied, who summited.

I guess it's not the least bit surprising that this is more and more about personalities, and less and less about CT. What about the concept of simply restoring one of the world's most spectacular mountains to a pristine state? Strip it of all fixed gear and bolts, just to start clean? Maybe climbers could grow into this idea--shedding the past without argument. Not as part of any standard, just because it is possible as a symbol in a world of disaster. Maybe in 50 years the standard for CT will be no fixed gear and base off the top.

Back to reality, either the would-be restorers (the whole group) should continue, and finish the job they barely started, or the other side should put a minimum of bomber bolts back in some of the holes and clean climb the rest. If the re-bolters also patched holes, they'd probably gain the upper hand in any restoration debate.

The cad

climber
Does it matter, really?!?
Feb 7, 2012 - 10:59am PT
@Randisi
Your answer is perfect also for BS question :)
tarek

climber
berkeley
Feb 7, 2012 - 11:07am PT
DMT, it's also religion to take the POV of what others consider an inanimate object...not a small proportion of the world's population might "see" CT as a being on some level...
So, yeah, it's all religion.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 7, 2012 - 11:08am PT
Back to reality, either the would-be restorers (the whole group) should continue, and finish the job they barely started.

Barely? 100+ bolts is way, way ahead of 'barely'. The job should definitely be finished with the holes patched.
tarek

climber
berkeley
Feb 7, 2012 - 11:12am PT
Compare the work involved in, at most, a few hammer blows per bolt (as all have reported) with the job of patching the holes on one of the world's burliest routes...
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Feb 7, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
http://tubeguide.tv/matt-segal-trad-climbing-on-china-doll-514/1167
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Feb 7, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
Reinhold Messner weighs in on the topic:

http://inclined.americanalpineclub.org/2012/02/reinhold-messner-at-outdoor-retailer/
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Feb 7, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
Kelly Cordes brings the goods, courtesy of Patagonia's website:

http://www.thecleanestline.com/2012/02/cerro-torre-deviations-from-reason.html

So in a self-regulated world where the participants broadly cite expression, anarchy and freedom as fundamental values – as they have since climbing began – who decides what to do with a controversial line of bolts?

Well, not those sitting on their asses, frothing at their keyboards about how Hayden and Jason were too young to make such a decision, insisting that they should have been consulted first, as if they’re owed something and could then grant or deny a has-been-never-was web-forum-climber stamp of approval. No, not them. And not those unable or unwilling to appreciate Cerro Torre on its own terms, or the ignorant who flew into a frenzy over a mountain, now somewhat restored, that they know nothing about. Nor those, like me, who sit from the comforts of home and agree with the removal.

No, the ones who got to decide were the ones with the courage and the skill to unravel and accept the mysteries of Cerro Torre’s spectacular southeast ridge.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Feb 7, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
I doubt the route will ever be completely removed and patched. I imagine an occasional hammer blow session. The most motivated chopper in the world is unlikely to be hanging around up there with epoxy and granite dust carefully filling holes.

Besides, don't those bolts now protect Lama's free route?

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