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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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I just received this message from my neighbor Ian Walsh and thought I would put it out to the California ST surfing contingent. It would be cool if y'all kept an eye out.
"ATTN: Santa Barbara / Ventura areas I had these two boards pictured above and one other stolen yesterday.
My 2 favorite identical looking Mayhem/Lost boards that are 5'9 & 6'0 as well as a 5'2 Tomo. Contact me via Instagram and if you help me get these boards back under my feet I will be more than happy to REWARD you with a nice surprise!! Please share & let's make some social media magic happen!
Regardless of the missing boards I had an awesome time in SB, thank you!"
#findwalshysboards
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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o-man sorry to hear about that!
I did hear though that Ventura is the kinda place where u have to watch ur stuff!
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rbob
climber
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Jun 11, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
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There is nothing like watching those lumps roll in and then seeing them make a 90 degree turn right towards you.
Only at Blacks.
Why is this the case? I have only surfed there once or twice and don't recall observing a huge bend in the wave face... that being said conditions were pretty small and mediocre....
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 11, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
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rbob-
Really, it's what makes Blacks special- the submarine canyon.
The deep water canyon channels the NW swell towards the beach, kind of like an off ramp, allowing it to hit with maximum power.
By the time swell reaches most average beachbreaks the power has been diminished by a gradual, sloping underwater topography.
Moss Landing, in Monterey Bay, has a similar submarine canyon.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 11, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
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Blacks=nude beach?
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 11, 2014 - 08:37pm PT
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drljefe: An absolute gem came right to me. I'm right at the knuckle. I make the drop, it bends, throws, and I'm standing up in the barrel. One of my best ever, in fact, spit and all.
Nice image. It's been about 20 years since my last real waves, but they still stick with me as your description indicates. Powerful stuff.
I never surfed at Blacks. That day sounds like a mix of swells. Do you have any guess about what was coming from where, and what gave you that ride? I couldn't answer that question for most of my days out in Humboldt or S.F., but I had to ask.
ps: Do we all think of you as Dr. El Jefe ?
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jun 12, 2014 - 09:56am PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 12, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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I'll assume you mean "Nicaraguan" barrel?
Darwin, I'm not a doctor.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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One time I spent an afternoon (maybe a full day? don't remember) with my boogie board, flippers, mask, & snorkel, and launched out of Black's Beach and cut straight across the bay, following a line up the center of Jefe's picture all the way to the point in down town La Jolla, and back. It was rad. Lots of interesting birds along the cliffs north of downtown. Got scared a few times when curious seals hung out close by, thinking how utterly helpless I would be if they felt like biting me and taking off. Had a glorious moment coming over the crest of a wave at sunset back at Black's Beach, and a pair of dolphins used the wave like a ramp to launch out of the water on either side of me, almost touching distance, scared the bujeezus out of me before that gave wave to wonder and then looking down the line of the wave to see another dolphin doing the same.
Didn't have any shark encounters.
In the springtime, there is bioluminescence and if you go out at night, you can watch the waves light up when they break, or see glowing tracers behind your hand as you wave it through the water. Maybe that was an exceptional thing when I was there 20 years ago for college, but it was really neat.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 12, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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That pretty core, Beardbro, even on a sponge ;-)
There are some big fish out there. When the giant squid make an annual visit to La Jolla Cove, so do the Whites.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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Sorry to hear about your bud's boards being ripped off, O-man. Downright sucks.
Shot of a friend surfing New Jersey in winter.
And something a little warmer...
Nice description and diagram of how Blacks works Jefe. Looks legit to me. Seems like the waves bend more as the swell size goes up. The north peak is notorious for each wave of the set shifting further north. Double to triple overhead, when you go left you kick out to face a nice wall of whitewater unless you take the last wave of the set.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 12, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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new jersey juice!
I like how you said that.
lots of whale encounters this season!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 12, 2014 - 04:41pm PT
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Oh man, that left looks inviting....
For twelve years I was lucky enough to be able to suit up at home and be in the water at Trestles in less than ten minutes.
This was my first custom board shaped my my bud Midget, rest in peace.
I brought in a 70's single fin I'd been riding and asked him to base a thruster off of it. This is what I got. It was a gem. I sold it, along with most of my boards, when I hurt my back and needed money. I actually Made money off that damn board! Many, many years later my bro in Morro Bay sent me a cell phone pic of the board. A gal had bought it used in San Diego and loved it.
I wonder where it is now...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 12, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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Nice board jrljefe.
Anyone recognize the inside of this famous surf spot with its touch of local flavor?
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jun 12, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
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Dat'z "Da HO" cuz, it's jus down da beach from where I stay.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 13, 2014 - 01:49pm PT
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Lifetime worth of barrels for most people who surf in just one wave! That wave......and its a left! Sweeeeet
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 13, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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Perfect overhanging off-hands.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 13, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
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The TRUE Church of the Green Cathedral is in that vid. Literally the Green Room (until it goes brown sucking sand at the end). Hallelujah! ;) gave me leg cramps just watching it....
I'm not good enough at climbing to make a valid comparison...climbing's what's keeping me going these days though. There is usually less blood with surfing unless you are over coral reef.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 13, 2014 - 06:49pm PT
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Next to impossible to improve on that video, but I think you all might get a kick out of this sequence. Dan Dowden at Resturants. Think I got the order right...
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