Show Me What You're Building!!

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Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 31, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
Get a PVC type liner for the floor make sure it goes up at least 8" on the sides. Make sure not to put any holes in it. Put in your drain then fill it with bedding mortar making sure to angle from the sides to the drain. then add tile.

hope that helps Ive had a few bloody marys

Happy Easter
Onewhowalksonrocks

Mountain climber
portland, Maine
Mar 31, 2013 - 06:26pm PT

Deck, door and fence almost done!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 31, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
Semper, if you want the most bombproof setup buy a one piece tile base.
There are good ones made of some kind of heavy duty 'plastic' that looks
and feels like corian and Kohler makes really nice ones of cast iron.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 31, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
They make Corian shower bases, too. It's more polyester than plastic, so it'll last longer....There's also the Wedi tilebacker systems. Good stuff, that.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 31, 2013 - 09:09pm PT

emper, if you want the most bombproof setup buy a one piece tile base.
There are good ones made of some kind of heavy duty 'plastic' that looks
and feels like corian

There's an outfit in the Anaheim area that custom makes those to size as well as wall slabs.

The trade name for the product is "cultured marble"

sempervirens

climber
Mar 31, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
The one-piece tile base probably won't work for me 'cause the drain hole is not in the center. I suppose I could move the hole and the shower drain pipe but there is a bunch of plumbing under there that'd be in the way. I'm assuming the one piece tile base has the drain hole centered.

I'm not familiar with the pvc stuff. Is it in a plyable sheet? Like a sheet of plastic? And does it go under the hardi backer? Or over?

I do need to angle the thin set and tile toward the drain a little too as suggested.

Thanks for all the help people.
richross

Trad climber
Mar 31, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
The stonework on the addition at the Lundy estate.

http://www.nytimes.com/2000/03/04/nyregion/large-estate-to-help-link-parks-chain-near-catskills.html









sempervirens

climber
Apr 2, 2013 - 11:15am PT
That stone work is super cool. Where is the Lundy estate? I've never heard of it. Aesthetically speaking, the roof lines look kinda jumbled and don't really go together, IMO. Seems like a building where additions were put on as after thoughts. It's funny to me that so much effort (and $) was put into such a castle and it looks like it doesn't fit together. Also, I'm surprised they painted the large post and beams grey; I'd have preferred a wood stain preservative. The craftsmanship is excellent though.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 3, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
hey there say, wow, wonderful things getting built here...

booDawg and ekat, i hope to at least put good soil in my garden this year...
not sure when i can plant now, it is still in the 20's mid, and 30's some...

wow, i may just plant and fall will set in :O

hope not, ;)




also, neat building stuff rielly and all...


here is WHAT I JUST BUILT:

cost about 4 bucks, i think it did, from thrift store finds, :



Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 3, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
Those flared-eave gambrel roofs look a little out of harmony to me as a matter personal taste, but that's your std Dutch colonial revival roof. Looks a little more out of place being adjacent to that std gabled roof on the second building in back.

Pretty much the defining characteristic making it a "dutch" colonial rather than some other colonial is the gambrel roofs, and the revival era ones tended toward the flared eaves.

Love this thread. One day I'll actually put up some pics.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Apr 3, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
i have done quite a bit of work with clay/adobe/mud-- most stuff has a high silt content (not good) it's suprisingly hard to get it right.

Cordwood/ strawn]bale house,, 5 years now, no problems.. it's all about the design 30" overhangs,, drains, etc
s
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
Cherry Insta-Closet!


The retards were too cheap to change the existing crown so I had to
cope mine into the existing! Grrrrr....Waaay stoopid.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Apr 5, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
The past few weeks have been quite interesting. Establishing yourself as a sub to call for whatever has its ups and downs.

I've painted the exterior of a house, woven corners on cedar shake siding, framed, hung drywall, hung a gutter system, installed windows, trimmed windows and doors, and raked a lawn.

I work with two great GC's though, and have friends on each crew. Spring has sprung, life does not suck. At all.

Sorry for the tell and no show. I'm too damn busy to stop for lunch, much less take pictures.
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Apr 11, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
I just picked up an elliptical granite top that I ordered to go on a mahogany and makore coffee table base that I made for my son's graduation from UMass Amherst. Last week we were forwarded a link listing him as one of the Top Ten Graduating Seniors in his Sports Management Department, which is one of the top two programs in the country. Proud!

http://www.isenberg.umass.edu/sportmgt/Undergraduate/Top_Ten_Seniors_2013/


This is Max last summer on a deep sea fishing trip.

But this pic more correctly captures his personality:

I guess you can say I had a part of building him too, 22 years in the making. He interviews later this week with the Boston Celtics, fingers are crossed!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 11, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
Gorgeous table Edge. Had never heard of makore before.
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Apr 11, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
Had never heard of makore before.

It's often referred to as African cherry, but since it is unrelated I avoid that name. It pairs well with mahogany but is harvested in Africa, and often shows the tight fiddleback curl that you can see on the aprons. The legs and cockbeading are South American mahogany, and the central shelf is ribbon stripe SA mahogany.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Apr 11, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
A Sturmpanzer IV mid-production "Brummbar" with complete interior:



The engine is a Panzer IV J from CMK. Shouldn't be much different than the one in a Pz IV in a "Brummbar". The full gun compartment interior is by Griffon Models. And the driving compartment and drive train are resin by R&J Enterprises that did create some problematic dimension changes in the chassis interior.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 12, 2013 - 01:05am PT
Edge, beautiful, as always. I am assuming, also as usual (but I'm not proud),
that the aprons are veneer on a bandsawn form?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 12, 2013 - 01:38am PT
Good kid and good table, Edge. Like the thickness top and the tiny bead you ran at the bottom of the apron parts, as well.

I love Makore. I did a whole residential project from a large flitch of figured Makore. In the solid its terrific too. One of the premier species.


Good luck.
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Apr 12, 2013 - 09:13am PT
I am assuming, also as usual (but I'm not proud),
that the aprons are veneer on a bandsawn form?

Reilly, the aprons are veneer over three layers of 1/4" bending plywood, aka Wacky Wood. I built a form of 3/4" ply ribs, covered with a layer of bending ply and then scrap Formica (so the glue squeeze out wouldn't bond), the sum total equalling the inside radius of the elliptical apron parts. There is a backer veneer of poplar under the makore veneer (on both faces) so that the tiny voids from the bending ply fill with the two part glue and don't telegraph through.

The whole lay-up goes into a vacuum bag and once I pop it off the form I can lay it on the floor and stand on the center of the curve with no deflection. I then use loose tenons to join the apron ends to the leg tops using a Rojek mortising machine. The solid wood cockbead is bandsawn to fit and covers all the layers on the bottom edge; the radius is made with a custom ground hand scraper blade.

I could have bandsawn out the apron parts from solid wood, but the end aprons would need to come out of a 4" x 6" x 16" solid with lots of waste and resulting short grain problems. Plus, making the outside radius completely smooth would be a PITA, with potential for voids. The bending ply is much faster, stronger, and more predictable.

It sounds more complicated than it actually is, I can crank these out pretty fast.
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