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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Dec 13, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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I remember Bender out at Stony in the early 70s. The guy had remarkable technique... really learned a bunch by watching him. He seemed to disappear for a while and when I saw him again he'd put on a lot of weight but was still doing these really difficult problems with perfect static grace like some kind of Ti Chi master. Great pics thanks for posting them.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 13, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Yeah, Bender had some kind of mysterious force he could tap into. He was into chi and that sort of thing. I did not learn that stuff till later. My mantra was Strength is Technique! We always joked about our different approaches.
I had a funny rememberance while climbing at the Alabama Hills this Fall. I was looking down at the dirt on the ground at the start of a climb and realized I was thinking some thought about the dirt. I realized I was unconciously suppressing an urge to but my hand in the dirt - that's what we used to do before chock came along!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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Nah Guy, that wasn't me on the Jesus Wall. I've been being a gym rat for the past few weeks.
I did this a few months ago though. McHale, you got any shots from this route? Its Just north of Stoney but right before the freeway.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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That crack goes free at 5.10 now.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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I know, I tried to lead it onsite like a year ago and decked from maybe a foot below where I'm at in that pic. So now I just aid it and TR it.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 18, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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TFish, got a bigger pic of that area? It still looks like part of Stoney there. Not sure where you mean. Doesn't look familiar though. Somehow the Bird sh#t looks familiar!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
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Dan... it's about 200 yards north of the RR tracks, east side of Topanga Canyon. A old one lane paved road runs along the base.
Someplace on this thread, there are more photos of the climbs.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 18, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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It's right there, you walk up to the old paved road and then up a short trail. It's a crack in a dihedral and then you kinda top out and traverse right and then go up another short crack in another dihedral.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Dan these pics are fantastic! i knew you could share. thanks for taking the time.
did you buy those pitons from the mtn shop just down the road?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 19, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Is that an old add for an old store? Let's see, I probably bought pitons from Westridge and the Mountain Store back in the day.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 20, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
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Dan... this store was in the late 80's
It was areally nice old time MT. Shop.
The owner would let us BBQ in the back.
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Katiekorn
Boulder climber
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Dec 24, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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This rain is annoying...Is it ever going to stop long enough to climb again? Lol...
Where do the rest of you go to climb when the sandstone doesn't have enough time to dry?
*itching to climb outdoors*
~Katie
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 24, 2012 - 10:37am PT
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Anywhere that is granite is usually good to go right after the rain. I was at the riverside quarry yesterday and it was really nice, tshirt and shorts weather and there was barely anyone there.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 24, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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Dan... this store was in the late 80's
It was areally nice old time MT. Shop.
The owner would let us BBQ in the back.
I remember that store, and the bbqs
As I recall, the building was pink.
The manager was a really cute girl
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 28, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
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It is still wet at STONEY.... mud everywhere.
So please consider the condition of the mud/sandstone before climbing.
Think of your children and grandchildren, and how much you want them to
enjoy the historic problems that you like.
Many of the "young guns" have gone to JT for some hot climbing.
They are in JUMBO ROCKS site #1 and #2 for the new years festivities, they wanted me to pass along a big.... "come on by" welcome for any who wish to join in.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 28, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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Current temp in Josh is 48. In town. Noon Friday. Brr.
Hi tomorrow 49, Sunday 47...
It's weird, the night time lows are only down around 32. I've been out there when you wake up in the morning and it's 20, but a few hours later it's nice and warm in the 60s.
Oh well call me a wimp.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 28, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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I was out there Wed. & Thurs. It was cold but really pretty, with tons of people everywhere. Actually in the sun if was very nice. Dress warm.
Laurie I think was the name of the girl that owned the mountain store when it was up on Devonshire st.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 28, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Frumy, thanks for that. I believe that was her name.
Didn't that store move over to the mall on Tampa?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 28, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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Kris... they are all excited to go climb...the joys of youth.
Im going to go anyway.
I remember when you would go... "no matter what the weather forcast was"
Are you experienced?
Happy New Year
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 28, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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10b.... I think the store over on Tampa was "Little Stone" or something like that..... not in the mall but next to Mongolian BBQ.
I think that one of the best was Ed's shop... Art Of Climbing. He had really nice stuff and the first "climbing wall"
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