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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 22, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
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Jesus Briham, what a terrific video. Love Blackmill's music to the video, too. Thanks
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Mar 22, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
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Jesus Briham, what a terrific video. Love Blackmill's music to the video, too. Thanks I was delightfully mesmerized all the way through the video!
Exquisite barrel riding! I feel he captured the essence of the experience.
Thanks for sharing briham!
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Mar 23, 2014 - 11:36am PT
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That vid puts Namibia on the bucket list... kinda makes this kid wish he were a goofy foot.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Mar 23, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
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Looks a bit like the Santa Barbara sandspit on one of its rare perfect days, except going the other way...
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 25, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
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Step 1: Lend your board to a disenfranchised kid who lights it up a little. Step 2: Eat a little kaya, no water pipes, just the ones ridden ..
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 25, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
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Thanks JimC. When surfing gets down to legends and their stories told... it is at its best.
Someone should do a book on legends of surfing, not just about leading characters but freak occurrences that did sweep up past surfers in their lore.
A couple of examples would be giant 100-year swells, freak perfection in crazy places, out-of-the ordinary freak waves or swells. Kind of a grassroots, difficult-to-research. How come we never read about rogue waves, too, hitting a line-up? Not just big for the day but total anomalies? I think Charlie Porter or a similar character related a story about having landed in a cove on the southwest coast of Chile somewhere and watching a one-of-a-kind monster wave close out the entire bay he had chosen to beach himself in for the night. Nothing like it had been occurring that day. It turns out there are oodles of freak waves out there; we can read them by satellite now (wave height data). Thousands of ships get wiped out by them and insurance companies are used to it. We need more writing about what our oceans are able to do, especially when people are trying to play in them.
There used to be some photos posted at the Boardwalk down on the Main Beach in Santa Cruz back in the Sixties of a day a giant swell hit the area. it was in the twentieth century, but I don't recall much after that but the photos of gargantuan corduroy approaching our civic beach. The swell was perfectly positioned, and raised giant surf that attacked the main beach (?!?!) at what looked like 15ft. In the biggest NW swells, that spot is usually no more than 8 ft, even still a monster. I can't find the data online today but how cool?
Its these legends, the world-making tales, often oral...worth grabbing into literature.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Mar 27, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
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I'm sure this has been mentioned as a comparison: Surfing has become so crowded that it's much harder to enjoy then climbing. You have to travel to the extreme to get uncrowded surf or luck out and catch the one day out of a hundred where conditions are right without the mob. You can still get a great climbing adventure minutes from the road in traditional climbing areas on a beautiful weekend. Not so at the great surf spots. For your comparison: A vid about one of the most amazing waves in the world in comparison to Everest.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxsr0vbPdsY
Then, this..
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John M
climber
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Mar 27, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
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Bethany is something else. Thats a champion spirit there.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Mar 29, 2014 - 10:17pm PT
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I went to an awesome wedding today. We all paddled out and made a circle around the bride and groom while the said their vows and did the ring thing. Then we all surfed small but fun waves for the rest of the morning.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
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A nice long left break near Phan Thiet in Vietnam off a jetty. It had good surf every day.
A perfect wave to learn on, and when it had some size it was rad.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Apr 23, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
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It's great to see some activity on this thread lately.
We have been going through a period of messy,squally on shore conditions lately and it hasn't really been all that inviting.
I'm spoiled I guess?
I did have a delightful,glassy well over head session out in front of my place here in Kuau about a week ago.BTW: It's no longer my back yard. It's now my front yard. The place in front of me opened up so I moved.
I broke my finger in a wind surfing session a while back. I was trying to water start in light/fluky wind close in to the rocks. I got caught in the strong current and wound up washing in on the rocks. My finger got f**ked up while trying to hold on to my gear while bouncing through the rock garden. A lot of people went on the rocks that day. In reality I rarely get through a season at Kuau without some sort of injury.
I can surf with no problem but the injury has kept me from wave sailing for fear of re injuring it,especially, in these less than epic conditions.
I thought I would toss in a random image that I took at "Jaws" earlier this season.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 26, 2014 - 11:24am PT
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one thing's for sure...
surfing gopro kicks climbing gopro's ass
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 26, 2014 - 11:31am PT
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So true, you've seen one climbing go pro and you've seen em all, well almost. But keep the surfing go pros coming.
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