Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
Dan.... that Mark dude is doing Yabo Mantle, and if he is using the little cut hold with his left hand.... it dosen't count.
Trying hard to recall a roof with a crack comming through it. Not much like that at Stoney.
The WET WEATHER STATUS REPORT: A very wet and cold morning here in Chatsworth.
Climbing is CLOSED....
I will update WED am....
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
a roof with a crack comming through it
The way I read Dan's description is that it is a roof with a crack across the back going up in at the joint of the wall with the roof, creating a feature which can be traversed by undercling.
I've got a Stoney route for all you guys to talk about. Way around back but closer to the freeway side there is a ceiling close to the ground
We'll have to go looking around.
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
Yes, Solem has the description correct. It's not like that other ceiling higher up and farther south that has a nailing route up over it - the one in one of my black and whites that I posted. Who knows, maybe the ceiling collapsed. It's much like Hot Tuna in that it's low to the ground, but it was pure undercling in a crack.
So, do you guys have strict rules about when to climb at Stoney after the rain? Do the Gendarmes show up and say.......
I know it was always a problem. We had to self-police on certain routes for sure. It never rains in California!
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
If Frumy catches you climbing when it's wet you are in a world of hurt.
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
|
I believe Dan is talking about the rock formation up Topanga, on the old Santa Susana pass road by the freeway.
Kris is right about climbing when Stoney is wet !
|
|
jw35
climber
|
|
The undercling Dan is refering to is about 25 feet right of Hot Tuna. Its somewhere in the mid 11's and it's a no fall problem. While it is close to the ground the landing is Bad. Used to do it all the Time. Loved it. As to Yabo's Mantle, one Handed............ I did see Jeff Johnson do it that way with out the Cut. Very, very impressive.
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
I can't say. It would be like what you see in the left part of that ceiling in there, where the crack goes up. I mostly remember the general difficutly of being crammed against the upper wall because you have to undercling. I vaguely remember roping up for it but am not sure - looks high enough that a rope would help. That would almost have to be it though in that pic? There are not that many ceilings like that back there.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
The Wilson Roof.....
You got me confused when you talked about it being close to the ground....
In T-fish's link.... that shows one of the "erased sport climbs" you can find at SP. They were bolted in the Mid-late eighties and the bolts lasted like 15 min......
Mickey Mouse is just to the left of that climber and right of Hot Tuna.
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
The roof in the pic to the right of the climber is the one JW35 is talking about. But it's not up by the freeway, it's right next to hot tuna. If you park at the top end of stoney and walk towards Scuptures and those routes it's like the first spot you'd come to on the right.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
YES, That is the one.
Back when Wild Jim Wilson was really wild... he would try and get you to do it. After you backed off it , Jim would just float the thing.
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2012 - 12:13am PT
|
i've seen mike flood aid/lead that wilson roof. i have been up the mikey mouse problem along with the tuna traverse.
great read!
Edit: life is a bivouac aka: russ Mclean glad ur happy in bishop! i'll keep the stoney pic flow'n.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
Pretty nice weather this last week...
Stoney is good to go for this weekend, for all that care.
thanks
|
|
BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
|
|
A good day on the S-Crack at the front wall yesterday.
Perfect weather ... calm,clear and cool.
Boy Scouts, Photo Shoots and LADF paramedics.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Dec 12, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
|
Starting to Rain...... in Chatsworth.
Stoney is closed for a day or two.
BlueWing... last nite, there was nitetime climbing action on the Jesus Wall
and the S-crack.
Was that you???
T-fish??
|
|
BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
|
Hey ...
No, I can't get away from work during the week
That may have been the guys in my pix ... Alex?
I met them last Sat ... they said they may climb Tues nite
BTW ...
there are bees about half way down the S-Crack, 12' off the rt side
they didn't even notice me when I was there on Sat
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
|
I remember bees back in the 60s and 70s up there. Is S-Crack the long one? Seems like we called it CS Crack - stood for Chicken Sh#t I think.
Here are some photos I just got back from the lab. First one here is Greg Bender on Turlock about 1970. That's Dan Wourt on the left on the ground and Richard Poust.
Below: This one is Greg Bender trying to free the main face at Stoney and the one below that is me up higher with Greg in the foreground. I don't remember who took the photo. I have another slide I will try to find of me higher up on the wall. I did not make it all the way though and we never got it together to set the ropes up again. These are from about 1970 also.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
|
Dan... nice shots... the s crack is the long one on the left.
I do recall it being "CS" crack.... not to much goes on on the big face, the better climbing is around back.
Greg Bender.... I wonder what happened to him?
When I started climbing he owned the place, along with Ken McNut, Mark Clemins (sp?)and Bob Kamps.. John Bachar wanted to do "all the mantles" that they could do.
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
|
Bender was in Arizona last I heard. I ran into him at a bouldering contest there about 1989 maybe.
There should be routes all over that face at Stoney by now.....get to it gang! Here are a couple more aid shots from around back. I'm the guy in the silohuette shot, did a hanging belay there for shot number 2 of Dick James.
Dick James cleaning below
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!