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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 19, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
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I don't want to hear any talk of bad weather.
It will clear by Friday night.
that is all.
ps- good stuff
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oct 19, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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@ Munge -
Poor fixed lines :(
that is all.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Oct 19, 2010 - 10:26pm PT
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No Mooch, now I am more confused. What route, in my picture, was I on then?
Those bolts would have been hard to clip going the way you drew in?????
Hey anyone got pics from last week? Post up!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oct 20, 2010 - 11:36am PT
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Jeff -
Don't be confused.....it simple.
Here's Matt's topo:
As you can see, 'Road To Zion' cuts right after the first two bolts. And IV cuts left after the first two bolts, eventually passing the roof on the left. What's confusing? The only confusing thing might be that Matt didn't draw in the crack going up after the blocks at the start and forming into the initial arch (as seen at the bottom of your photo). The "stray" crack he drew at the beginning is NOT part of the route. On that note, we tried going that way but its a flairing seam.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 20, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
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I take it you were on IV, Tork, as I can see your rope heading that way. But it looks like you went directly up at the start rather than following the right leaning arch, perhaps. You definitely then went around the left side of the 'lil roof.
(peanut gallery comment)
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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Add: Hi Bluey, I just added more info on the photo credits.
Nate, juicy like orange slice candy.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
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Orange Slice looks so...
juicy!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Oct 20, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
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Orange Slice DOES look purdy...what formation is it on?
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sneville
climber
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Oct 20, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
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Susu,
That picture of orange slice from that angle looks awesome. That wall is so featured. Here is a picture of the orange slices that gives every one magic powers for FA's. I will put more pics up tonight Jeff.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Oct 20, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
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All,
i have a topo for dances with bush, it's not the greatest thing in the world, but it will get you up the route. I'll put it on when i get unlazy and am not at work. Dave, i don't remember seeing a fixed pin where you mention. Perhaps we can chat about it off line and jog the memory. (I'll be in Tehachapi all week if you wanna hit up wagon wheel at some point.)
As far as what royal did, there is probably a good chance that our routes overlap a bit here and there, but the idea behind putting bolts where they are was that if anyone had done the path we took, they would have had to do runouts over 50' and i felt it was a safe bet it hadn't been done.
have fun out there kids!!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 20, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
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Sean, you need a pic of those orange slices spilling out of a chalk bag. :)
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Oct 20, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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we had a great time at Gray Eagle this past weekend. IV is stellar. happy to see this topo of IV and RZ as we were adventure climbing. Storming the Castle must be the route up the corner over the large layback flake with the high bolt into the notch?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Oct 20, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
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My confusion is, what route are the bolts I have marked on, clearly if you were to follow the red line you would be unable to clip them.
Thanks for the pics! Was a great weekend. More more more.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Oct 20, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
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there's just enough distortion in the photo to be slightly disorienting. the bolts are directly underneath the roof crack when you are on route. we stepped in under them from the left, cuz the rosy granite was so pretty we wanted to start on it.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 21, 2010 - 01:41am PT
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Another Perspective on the Same Area in Question
Jess on Of Wisdom & War and Sean on Middle Aged Man's Fancy Dreams
Mucci climbing in the rain
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 21, 2010 - 01:49am PT
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I hear tell John was seen drowning en route from the rain? vid no less?
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 21, 2010 - 02:09am PT
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Rochambo... wait, winner gets to what?
[whoops, Munge, technical difficulties loading video... a minute please]
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Oct 21, 2010 - 10:11am PT
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Great pics Sue!
What is Josh on? What's the story?
You just had to bring up Rochambo, sore subject.
Now back to Around The Corner
If one compares Sue's last photo of Gray with the Spencer topo of Around The Corner and they don't see the route then....???
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Oct 21, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
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Ditto on the pics Sue! My fav is Orange Slice. Too bad the climbers weren't wearing orange or something bright to stand out a little more.
Looks like another great opportunity for rain shots this weekend! ;-)
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Oct 21, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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Here are two pics of Infinite Voyage and what is to the right of Infinite Voyage.
Sorry for the poor picture quality, it was overcast and these are from an iphone.
It does go left at the roof, I saw the bolt from the ground. We didn't make it up that far because we had no idea what we were on or how to get off if we kept going. But man, did I want to keep going! We'll definitely be back to do the whole route.
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