Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
|
McHale you might need to click on the photo & enlarge it to see it, between the top two holes ( pin scars ) there is a bolt (?) or something. I'm sure this was an aid line long ago. Ryan, Waugh might know.
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 11:56am PT
|
Mchale when did u climb the obscure aid line in the back?
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
|
Hey Pyro, a bunch of those new bolts you guys just put in on those route in the pic are already missing hangers. I was there a few nights ago and the far right one has 2 rusty petzl hangers, and then the ones for the route to the left just has 1 mad rock hanger left.
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
|
Tfish i found out the other day when i went to set it up. people seem to think it's okay to take the hangers. looks like waugh is going to have to glue em in. i called him we laughed!
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
|
What about using the 5 piece style bolt, where they'd have to take the bolt out to take the hanger instead of just the nut. Does that deter these dicks at all?
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
|
Just leave the studs without the hangers and bring the nuts and hangers with when you go to set up. Why keep giving these clowns hangers?
If they'll unscrew a nut they'll unscrew the bolt in a 5 piece. Then yer bolt'll be gone too...
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
|
Pyro, Several of cool lines left of Sculptor's Crack. SOWR parties worked them over good in the 1980's (sans pins).
That line in your photo is tweaky-hard. I did see one person send it once.
Left of that is a big arch with an undercling that leads up to a dyno for this big 3-finger hole. Kinda hard to do since a tree is shooting up under that.
Further left is another line the top of which is marked by a single hangerless bolt.
Bring long long runners to TR these bad babies an get a good wholesome pump on.
I've heard that Gaines is promoting using a 100 ft 10.5 mm static line for all TR set-ups. Best idea I've ever heard and I started doing it too. It is ideal for exploring off the trade routes at Stoney.
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
|
Pyro, which obscure aid line you referring to? You mean the one in the black and white photo I posted - same area as in your photo there? That would have been about 1969 or so.
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 01:51am PT
|
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
You can see those 3 knob like chicken heads in my other photo and can see we came in from left of those. The route the climber is on in your photo looks familiar too - meaning I recognize it.
|
|
life is a bivouac
Trad climber
|
|
Hey you guys out at Stony...
Back in the early to mid '60's as
Chouinard was making his pins, we: Hennek, Boche, Dan Griffin, Pete Spocker, Myself (Russ McLean)and of course some others, were eating up any virgin aid lines that would take three or more placements.(after all aid was the King at this time). All of us were still using soft iorn to it's extreme...bending them, twisting them and snaping them... then came the Holubar knife blades and the RURPS and of course the rest of Chouinard's sizes... As Hennek, Boche and I would skip classes from High School and from Pierce JC to work for Yvon in Burbank at his "Lean-To" making said pins, we had the best ranges of thicknesses and lengths. Not to mention the mentoring of Yvon and the likes of T.M. Herbert, Gary Hemming, and Layton Kor.
So, in those back gullys we nailed almost every line to the top...
Hey Dan McHale, Good to see you're around!!
That photo left of the Sculpture cracks, there are two other lines further left as well done by the usual suspects...
Cheers from Bishop! Russ
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
Hey Russ, I always wanted to go to Pierce College! I mentioned earlier in a post that we had a half acre in Chatsworth with a couple quarter-horses, angus cattle.....and then we moved to Tarzana where we had 4 acres for things to spread out. That's when I started climbing and lost my interest in the animals! The closest I ever got to Pierce was jogging and driving by it. It looked like a really cool place.
I'm sure I would have loved pounding on pitons while making them - metal rules! I got into making chockstones when I moved up to San Jose and wanted to do that for a biz and then Chouinard came out with his Hexentrics and it kinda took the wind out of my sails!
I've got a Stoney route for all you guys to talk about. Way around back but closer to the freeway side there is a ceiling close to the ground that can be under-clinged (a very good finger crack) and traversed but your face and upper body are crammed real hard against the ceiling. I did that once - its rating has to be up there a ways but it is pretty basic - did it first try more or less - free of course. I remember Keith Schwartz being there and trying it and he could not do it so it can't be too easy. It's pretty much like the upper horizontal part of the Great Roof on the Nose, but with a better finger crack. Seems like the area for the feet is pretty featureless except for friction on a 90 degree wall. The ceiling is 90 degree also.
I did not see the Undercling in the Stoney Point DVD. Great DVD by the way!
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
The Pin scars.... turn into climbs!
The Sun showed its face today about 12 noon.....
Might be OK by Thursday, if we get some more sunny and 70.
Several key holds have already broken off this season...
The big undercling on Masters.... but it still goes.
DAN.... you don't mean "Hot Tuna" as the overhang?
When you get down here, we can take a little walk.
We also need to determine if Yabo Mantle goes one handed... some of the youngsters are very skeptical.
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
That area of Rock 1 has changed a bit in 40 years but the basic mantle is still there in the Stoney DVD. There's no way I could do that now of course being the ripped apart old man I am. I'm sure I could do it 2 handed though. There used to be a good solid undercling below the mantle that was relatively easy to get to one handed, and then the move to the shallow handhold in the face of the mantle was a not that hard (slightly dynamic) but the crux was pulling into the mantle one-handed and doing that. I used to be able to do one-arm chinups, and muscle-ups without kipping, and mantling was something I specifically trained for - one handed. I've been watching for mantling moves in modern bouldering videos and have not seen much, like it's a little out of style. There was a mantle high on the west side of Rock 1 in the old days called the Chouinard Mantle. It used to be 5.10 and I would do that unroped all the time - even jokingly down-rated it to 5.7.
Were is Masters? Can you post a photo? If you knew about the undercling round back you would know what I'm talking about. It might just be hidden under brush now. I had a route I put up out at Santa Susana Park called Drop Dead Traverse that was on a nice little wall at the back of the park. I was there a couple years ago looking for it and it was all grown over and unrecognizable.
My mantle on Pea Soup at the Needles is probably harder that I realized at the time, especially considering I did not get the bolt in until after I did it. It's off to the left of were the modern easier version goes, out left from the tree at the end of the first pitch that goes free now. I did not do that first pitch free but may have made up for it on the face climbing up there to the left of the alcove belay. The mantle is a small slopping cone that sticks out a couple inches in a steep face and there are no holds above or below, after the mantle is done you have to get your foot onto it by of course standing on the hand first. I had to get a bolt in that hard Neddles rock while standing on that little sloping sucker. I only got it in halfway and tied it off. The next move was to let my upper body slide across the friction of the face a foot or maybe more to get to a right hand hold - kind of a slow motion dyno (no way to reverse the move) without knowing if it would work - but it did.
I'm having more Stoney black and whites made to post here - maybe in a couple weeks. Yeah Guyman, it would be fun to get down there - maybe next Fall - I'm training harder than I have for quite a few years!
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
Pea Soup..... My first Bar-B-Q....
M. Pope and I did that thing back in 74..... aid of course.
We became benighted just below the good ledge on P5 (?) and spent a night out in June at the Needles in t-shirts.... can you say nOObs. We did FREE the aid pitch (the last aid on the climb)off of a big ledge cause we were in a hurry- we had dropped our water that nite and tossed the food (saltine crackers)... we were very nOOb.
I have Free Climbed the first pitch.... it's really fun and burley. The last 60 feet are very interesting. The next is A3 . stacked KnifeBlades... still. This pitch has some FREE climbing right in the middle, I have a angle with "FB" painted on it that I cleaned from a small hole in the middle of that pitch.
Cant wait to see photos...
|
|
hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
|
|
no tuesday for sure guyzo?
|
|
G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
|
|
It rained hard for days, I would think even Thursday is iffy unless it is warm and sunny the whole week. Pull gently on those holds for a while.
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
I've been looking more closely at the Yabo Mantle and found this pic. If he (Marc Perry) is mantling just on the sloping platform with no hold, that's not what I'm talking about. One-handed I used the hold up and to this climbers left.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
DAN.... you don't mean "Hot Tuna" as the overhang?
What Dan is describing - being an undercling like the upper part of Great Roof - does not sound like Hot Tuna. I can't figure what he's talking about, it'll be interesting to find it.
Someone will know...
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
|
|
I just looked up Hot Tuna http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpSUn0Zo0x0
It's not Hot Tuna and it's not that long but it is a ceiling like that, but flatter, and has a crack that going straight up into the corner. It gets traversed, it's not a climb out and over the ceiling.
This must be what I did one-handed on Rock 1 (different undercling than the one above that's like Hot Tuna) but the lower part I'm sure is a bit different now and the undercling may not be as good as it used to be, but it does not look like the mantle hold has changed much;
Undercling - V2
Average Rating : 3.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
Only other person I knew of that did this one-handed was Bob Kamps.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!