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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 15, 2010 - 05:50pm PT
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DR,
The route left of Fresno Flats/Wamello Rising, is Guides in a Snowbank (5.10a) by Jerry, Sigrid, and Lynnea. 5/08.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Oct 15, 2010 - 07:16pm PT
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Hey Dave,
i think i still have that hand drawn topo if you'd like to see it. I'm almost positive i have it on my hard drive. Anyways, the route in Magenta is Intrepid Voyage, and to the right in red is basically a route i put up a few years ago called road to zion. Like intrepid, it's sparsly bolted taking advantage of knobs and cracks with a few runout sections sporting bolts.
Matt
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Oct 15, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
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My guess on the route would be Around The Corner 5.9, a Delk route.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 17, 2010 - 10:19pm PT
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Thanks guys.
Hey Grahm, or anyone else on the ridge last weekend... rain? snow? neither?
It rained and we got thunder and lightning on the coast.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oct 18, 2010 - 11:30am PT
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My guess on the route would be Around The Corner 5.9, a Delk route
What are you sayong Jeff? That Matt's 'Road To Zion' is actually a Jack Delk route?
John was telling me that IV might have previously been done. If you look at the photo, there is a crack system moving up the middle up the formation. Perhaps this is the original line reported. Any more details on the info Susu? Jeff? Tiki?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Oct 18, 2010 - 11:59am PT
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Mooch, if you look at the Spencer topo (p126) and the photo it seems to match up to me??? Otherwise, where is around the corner?
I know there are at least 2 or 3 lines in this photo with bolts, can anyone draw them in and name them?
Jeff
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Oct 18, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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We had a fun weekend, about 12 people showed for the gathering. When I got there Friday the campfire was going and steaks were ready. Yum! Steve played some awesome guitar and sang some tunes. Phil had already done a bunch more trail work to Big Sleep earlier that day for everyone. Its super cruiser now, thanks Phil!
Most everyone was keen to climb on Big Sleep for Saturday. A light mist and rainbow in the morning gave way quickly to sunny warm weather with high clouds. Afternoon Nap, Gumby's and Moonlight Madness all got ascents. Afternoon Nap got what I think was its first solo ascent by Al. Crocodile saw some climbing as well.
That night campfires, good company and some grilled chicken were on the menu. Followed by didgeridoo duets and HAPI drum.
It rained briefly Saturday night. Sunday was cloudy/sunny and most people packed up to go home with forecasted rain on its way. Thanks all who came out. Hope to see you at the next one!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Oct 18, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
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Glad ya all had fun out there. Was planning on Sunday but the rain forcast kept us away.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 18, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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What are you sayong Jeff? That Matt's 'Road To Zion' is actually a Jack Delk route?
No, what he's actually saying, is that Matt's 'Road to Zion' is actually Jack Delk's 'Around the Corner', which is actually Royal Robbins unnamed and unrecorded route. And maybe Pete Cassam's unreported route in there as well, done after Jack, and probably after someone else...
:) Serious.
John G. feels 'Around the Corner' is actually on the prow of the buttress to the right, but the name sure seems to suggest it's, well, in the dihedral around the corner...
Ah, the mysteries of SoYo never cease. Stay tuned. Climb on!
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 18, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
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Ditto on that note, Grahm. We didn't realize that was you heading out while we were on the way in Sunday morning until we ran into Steve. Sorry we missed you! Though it rained, there were a few among us willing to scope out the area and climb anyway.
Hey Mooch, Intrepid Voyage first pitch was climbed this weekend by two climbers who happened to be out there already when we arrived. Sounds like they didn't know which route they had climbed, but by their description we all thought it must have been IV. They gave it a rave review!
Regarding the known routes in that area, to the best of our knowledge, the climb Around the Corner is in the middle of the main buttress left of the great depression.
Left of this line is a left-facing corner and wide crack, which seems to me the line of least resistance/most naturally protectable. Continuing up towards the top of this crack isn't that appealing and no longer seems the line of least resistance because it appears loose/rock-filled... Makes sense someone might begin in the corner crack and move to the face as they ascend... which seems the line in the Robbins' slide.
Left of this line is where begins IV & Road to Zion which reportedly share a start. Road to Zion takes a line farther right of IV and appears to intersect with that corner crack in places, and seems higher up to take the line in question according to Matt... He does seem to be the person who would know the most about the line in question. I originally thought RZ might intersect the Robbins line rather than be it. Both IV & RZ are 10s.
Here's a photo John took.
John just sent me this photo below with where he suggest the known routes are... I remember a topo that showed IV & RZ sharing a start, though the RZ line isn't drawn to the ground below.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 18, 2010 - 02:59pm PT
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[old version of] Matt's topo
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 18, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
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Another topo of Matt's
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Oct 18, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
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Thanks Sue, I thought I saw bolts out right. There are also bolts out left.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Oct 18, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
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Slight clarifications/beta in the photo below. The line farthest left in dark pink is Dances With Bush. Don't remember what it's rated....10c or something thereabouts. Steep with bolts and gear. The first anchor is a huge knob that you can equalize with a bolt. It goes up a runout 5.8 ramp to the left of the belay and eventually joins the huge ledge on the south face for the 2nd and third pitch.
The light blue line is road to zion. Both Intrepid Voyage and Road to zion are adventure climbs for sure. Each has sections with 60-90' between bolts with pro mixed in and is not necessarily super straightforeword about where to get pro, just gotta get up there. The topo was put on ST so people would know where to go and what has been done in the area. Both routes weave through the face in fun ways. The idea in putting them up was to avoid crack systems that had likely been climbed and weave a line into the face with mixed pro.
As far as whether or not either of those climbs had been done before, i have no idea. I saw no sign of any ascents, no slings, no bolts, no fixed pins. The bolts were to limit the runouts to no longer than 50'
For the location of Around the corner, I've always thought it was on the detached tower that Storming the castle ascends. When we topped out on that, we found a remnant of an old fixed sling around the knob we slung to rapp off the summit.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 19, 2010 - 12:43am PT
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So after all is said and done... it looks like Royal was on IV or RZ, or a mix of both.
Pretty damn cool he was doing routes like that back in '75.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 19, 2010 - 02:04am PT
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IF Royal followed the obvious wide chimney/cleft (the red line) for the first pitch(es), it would have avoided the crux pitch of both IV and RZ. That seems most likely.
Thanks for your input and clarification, Matt. Was Dances with Bush another rope solo? Date?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Oct 19, 2010 - 10:01am PT
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Thanks Matt.
Whats the linkup of IV to DB called?
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oct 19, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
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Susu -
Is that John's topo (yellow lines with route names)??
If so, small correction for IV:
Just before the first significant roof, the line goes LEFT....not right. After that, it joins back up. When Matt and I did it, we went left of the roof (although, by the looks of it, the climbing to the right of the roof is similar in grade....5.6/5.7). I'll do a "paint" correction for clarity. Also, reference Matt's topo.
BTW, Matt......that's your topo for IV, not the original. Also, you might want to draw in the "arch" at the beginning to identify the start more clearly.
I'll go with Nate's comment on which way Royal may have gone. He was more drawn to natural lines.
Hope this helps you out Jeff on the start during our FA:
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oct 19, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
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BTW, wasn't there a piton under that first big roof, off to the right (part of the buttress) on Storming The Castle? Didn't we spot one while FAing IV?
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 19, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
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Mooch, John just drew those lines on that photo quickly as a working suggestion... hoping it might help get the details ironed out. Would be nice if a group of us check-out those routes in person. Probably have to wait since it's beginning to look a lot like winter over there. I wonder what if any photos were taken by the climbers there this weekend.
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