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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Feb 11, 2014 - 10:28pm PT
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I"m so stoked to have surfed two perfictly glassy mornings in my back yard with very few people in the line up and they were my friends. It just doesn't suck at all!
I thought this was cute so I'm passing it on.
Richard Hallman wrote:
"I never get tired of You - even when you come crashing down on my head... I love Your straightforward no-nonsense approach to life... It's more than just some High School crush... This is a deep love that keeps me coming back again and again... You make my knees wobble when you are near - I'm afraid to speak - but know I am drowning in Your passion and always think about and respect the thousands of miles You traveled to see me... and even though it may seem weird to some people - I do really like watching other people ride YOU..."
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Feb 11, 2014 - 10:38pm PT
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Yeah. Mullaghmore should be getting more attention, it is so terrifically awesome. Not only a awfully badass location up there by Sligo on the North Sea but effing giant thick tubes in 45 degree water and big currents on a rocky shoreline. And it holds beyond 60 ft…..with magnificent shape in a wall, not just some giant A-frame peak.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:13am PT
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North L.A.
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:30am PT
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Nice foto of Auntie Rell
I use to drive out and surf Makaha quite a bit, the wave is fantastic, I mean at every size, it was so much fun, catch it, bottom turn, head down the wall, make it around the back wash and you could step right off the board onto the sand.
When Rell was there the place had no egos we all surfed what we could, we were family out there. After her passing, my bud and I had more and more negative experiences so we just quit driving out.
The Queen of Makaha, miss you auntie
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Feb 23, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
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~peace
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Feb 23, 2014 - 03:02pm PT
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Jefe emailed me recently, quietly wanting to know what a "shorebreak" was, never having seen a real one and mostly spending his time in the Great Southwest, grunting up rude desert features and feeding Rosebud.
So I stepped right in. Or should I say Inn?
This is the 17c pub, The Cove House Inn on Chiswell Beach in Dorset, Midlands, England.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 23, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
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I'd love some of this
But I'll settle for this
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 23, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
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I'd take either of those right about now.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 23, 2014 - 05:21pm PT
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i'm still checking out somebody's legs!!!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Feb 23, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
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i'm still checking out somebody's legs!!!
Leggs, made to climb, dance, balance and Enjoy Life on!
~peace
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 23, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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Damn girl talk about hot off the press!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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Feb 23, 2014 - 06:19pm PT
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^^funny^^
:)
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Feb 23, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
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Dang Peter! That wave is terrifying.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Feb 24, 2014 - 01:03am PT
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Yeah no kidding. The most disturbing image ever of a wave, in my experience. Worse than the morphing sicko slabs on big days of Shipstern's Bluff even and her many sister slabs about the world.
Part of the crucial component to this picture is not instantly obvious: it's the titanic backwash from the very steep beach. It doubles the wave height for a brief moment, but still the force coming shoreward is incomprehensible, isn't it? This is what Hegel meant by The Sublime. A natural spectacle that horrifies even with its power. Like waterfalls, he said.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
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It's great to see activity on this tread again.
Peter that is some frightening shore pound. The view of the wave with the Cove House Inn in the foreground provides a dynamic perspective. What a place to have a pint and watch the raw power of the ocean!
I love the images Leggs the portrait by drljefe is most striking, love it!
drljefe,that's a great climbing image man the colors are unreal. I could use a bit of that action myself.These days my climbing head is out. It would take some serious time on the dull end of the rope to be able to lead with any resemblance of authority.
We are in the middle of what Ilima Kalama has described as the best Maui surfing winter that he can remember. And Ilima has been around the Hawaii surf scene for quite a while.
Judging from all the info that I have had it has been epic for you guys on the west coast as well.
The monster swells have backed off for a while now and have been replaced with substantial yet very doable and mostly windless conditions.
The diehard wind surfers and kiters are extremely grumpy especially the vacationers that spend soo much money to come here to enjoy the best wave sailing conditions in the world. Up until last Wednesday afternoon I hadn't even rigged a sail since Christmas Day and that is a long stretch for Maui.
I have been surfing here in my back yard nearly every day for the past several weeks and it is all a blur past last week.
I have been worked pretty good quite a bit and have hit the reef more than I like to think about. Two days in a row I got caught inside by cleanup sets that drilled me so hard that I was really needing air while they drug me on the reef deep in to the bay. Each time it took me a while to get shake it off and the hydraulics were so strong and confused that I couldn't punch back out so I had to paddle to the extreme back of the bay and walk the rocks back home.
A few days back I went for a rather large wave and my take off was a bit late which sent me over the falls I didn't have time to even get my arms up to protect my head and the force of that wave drove me deep and hard into the rocks. It felt like I had maybe really injured my right arm. I immediately got my arms up to my head before I encountered the reef again. That one took the starch out of me! I spent the rest of the session over on the right shoulder and picked up some scraps. Lucky my right arm was only bruised and no real damage was done.
My friend Tracy Harrp wasn't so lucky she was to deep on a close out and got pulled over the falls and landed on her board and got stabbed in the butt by one of the fins. I was paddling out as she was paddling in and she said " I took a fall Mate, and cut me bum!" (She's a hard charging Kiwi) I said let me see and it was bad and deep. her boyfriend Dean took her to the clinic Where the doc had to stitch her wound inside and out.
Olaf Mitchell It looked bad when I saw the wound as we passed in the channel when you were paddling in. I figured that you might need stitches but I had no ides the it was that deep.
10 hours ago · Like · 1
Tracey Harrap Yeah I didn't know it was that deep either Olaf until the doc said i can get my finger in to here as he pointed to his 2nd knuckle oh jeepers thanks doc, they needed to flush it out really good and sew in some internal stitchers as well as I had cut the muscle... least its not on my face as some people have had... so I am lucky. funny I took this photo while i was waiting to get some clothes and once I saw it I felt not so good lol .
Today the waves have gone away an we have junky on shore wind. It's time to catch up on a few things.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 25, 2014 - 11:27am PT
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thank's for the update Oman!
hope ur friend heals up.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Feb 25, 2014 - 11:26pm PT
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hope ur friend heals up Tracy is a warrior and she is going to be OK!
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