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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Mar 29, 2008 - 12:41am PT
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Holy crap!!! He soloed the Free Rider! That’s mind blowing. I can’t believe I haven’t heard about it till now. That’s really cool.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Mar 29, 2008 - 12:51am PT
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I thought that was Oliver Moon who came out of retirement and free-soloed Freerider
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 29, 2008 - 12:55am PT
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Speaking of Peter, he began enchainments early on. In the summer of 1983, he and Hamish Fraser tandem-soloed the west buttress of South Howser (carrying one rope each for the rappels). Peter went on that day to solo the Kraus/McCarthy/Rupley route on Snowpatch Spire, the McTech Arete on Crescent Spire, and the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. Over 40 pitches. During that summer, he also soloed the Northeast Buttress and the North Rib of Mt. Slesse, on separate days, and the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart in Washington.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Mar 29, 2008 - 01:20am PT
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Great thread John.
I ran into Peter the day that he soloed the Rostrum the first time. He was walking back to camp and I was at El Cap meadow. As he approached there was this powerful aura surrounding him, I first picked up on it from over a hundred yards away.
He had laid awake in his sleeping bag for several hours the night before. Unable to sleep he spent the rest of the night pacing back and forth among the boulders behind camp. At first light he walked to the Rostrum, and fired it.
It was awe inspiring, his account of the climb. Gives me goosebumps as I write about it.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Mar 29, 2008 - 01:27am PT
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Summer of 1989. I was still teaching and had the summers off. The previous summer I had spent in England climbing in the Peak Districk and Wales. Still remembered the rush of sixty foot Gritstone "classics" and the great beer and "Chip Buddies" in the local pubs afterwards. Anyway, I had a lot of time that summer and no climbing partners. I headed up 395 with no real plans, stopped in Mammoth for a few days of partying with old friends (Billy Glynn), and then headed for T Meadows. Spent a few days hiking to the base of many routes on Fairview and DAFF domes, and then decided to go check out the Cathedral Lakes area. I threw together a sleeping bag, some food, and fishing gear (somebody told me there was some decent fishing in the vicinity) and headed in after sleeping in my truck on the roadside. I think I got lost on the trail in a few places but eventually made my way to the base of Cathedral Peak. I was familiar with Cathedral Peak through various mag articles but didn't have any knowledge of the climbing route other than it was on the SouthEast flanks.
I remember strolling up to the base of the SouthEast face and admiring the clean granite and great locale. I casually watched more than a few parties all over the face as I ate lunch. Suddenly, this spontaneous but overwelming desire surfaced to climb to the top of this peak. I remember feeling very calm and confident as I set my pack and fishing gear down on the ground and started climbing the slabs at the bottom. I could see the whole route before me and felt a sense of confidence in making it to the top. I remember reaching the first series of ledges where I caught up with several roped parties and the look on their faces as they noticed that I had no rope or partner. I will shamefully admit now that this was somewhat of an energizer for me as I suddenly took on the appearance of a superstar !!!
The next pitch off of the ledges was a more vertical selection of cracks and chimneys. Of course, I opted for the chimneys and felt very secure in gaining altitude squeezed between two opposing walls. This landed me on another series of sloping ledges with a slabby, and less featured wall, leading to the top. Nothing ahead of me appeared in the least bit intimidating so I just launched upwards, passing several roped parties on my way to the summit.
I remember getting to the top and finding that the true summit was a block that I had to leap to, and upon reaching, sat there for a good hour taking in the scenery and sharing stories with other summiteers. Since I had no rope, I figured out a way down the Northeast ridge and back to my gear where I sat for a good two hours "reflecting" on my accomplishments.
I have had very few moments in my life that I would describe as Euphoric. One was while I was travelling through the Black Forest of Germany, another in the Dolomites of Northern Italy, and a third at the top of Zodiac, my first El Cap ascent. This "amazing solo" will remain as one of the true defining moments of my life.
Cracko
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Mimi
climber
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Mar 29, 2008 - 01:44am PT
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The first time I met Peter, I was driving back into the Valley and passing the bottom of the Spires gully when a guy appeared from the woods. I slowed and pulled over as I could tell it was a climber with no gear. He said he could use a lift and we headed toward C4. I didn't realize it at the time what he was up to, nor did he volunteer, but he'd probably just cruised up the NE Buttress for another lap. Clearly a nice guy having a great time in Yosemite.
After seconds of conversation, it was evident that Peter was pure climber. I was working for 5.10 at the time and was psyched to give him shoes and made sure he'd connected with Charles. Those first generation FiveTennies were it. Too funny.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Mar 29, 2008 - 03:31am PT
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Victor Ostrovsky?
pffft....
James T. Kirk, years ago.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Mar 29, 2008 - 11:41am PT
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Hey John, got any photos of the kid on the Snowshed wall at Donner? I had the pleasure of watching him (I believe first free solo) on Manic Depression. Correct me if I am wrong but I believe you climbed it ropeless right after him after only once with the rope. That should qualify as amazing.
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Mar 29, 2008 - 12:28pm PT
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J.B.-
another awesome low-key climber is Jakey Whitaker.(sorry Jake) He has some really good stories too. He on site soloed Yose Point Buttress one after noon a few springs ago. He said that he really had to concentrate and it was hard. He and Sean krieltich also had a pretty cool enchainmet. They ran from Tenya Lake to Snake Dike, across the Valley to Arches. With a stop for a hydration margarita at the Ahwanee. From Arches to the E. Face of North Dome, for both a onsight. Then they ran back to Tuolumne. We had SAR training up in Tuolumne the next day. Sean could hardly walk or talk at training, it was awesome. Jake may have had a sore calf. Ha! I know the routes aren't 5.11s or anything but it was anawesome story to hear them tell it. They are two really good people also so it makes it even better. Know what I mean?
Patrick
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scooter
climber
Moss Landing CA
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Mar 29, 2008 - 01:02pm PT
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Stzzo-
If you knew Jake and Sean you would know they are capable of even more. Jake has completed enchainments on a Croftian scale, for nearly a decade on the low down. No thanks to me spraying here for him. i.e. evolutin travese, red point second try Free Rider with daylight to spare. etc.....
Patrick
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Mar 29, 2008 - 01:06pm PT
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Cool Story Cracko. Nice job.
One of my first real solo's was in Eldo. I was tooling around doing some bouldering and mostly just hanging out. I ended up at the base of the Wind Tower and started soloing up Calypso. I came up to a gorup and was talking to the lead, then I wandered up to a cool dihedral, felt a little pumpy compared to what I'd been on, but still knew I was solid. I later found out that I soloed Reggae.
Prod.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Mar 29, 2008 - 01:34pm PT
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Some amazing solo stories that make my palms sweat:
Shipley on Whitney
Reardon On sight on Romantic Warrior
Porter on Dawn Wall
Yabo on Spiderline
Dunn on Cosmos
Cole on Queen of Spades
Dave on Escudo
possibly the most badass, Mugs 1 day ascent of the Cassin.
More than olympic gold medalists or astrophysicists, these people show me that mankinds ability has no limit.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Mar 29, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
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Hey Bachar, didn't YOU do some soloing in yer day??? Maybe someone out there has some coolio shots of Masterbacher doing his thing a ma jig. That would be neat to see some o dem shot too. Post up Johnny. In particular I remember yer Half Dome days in Josh and most memorable was the morning I was walking with my mother in law in Tuolumne and John comes up to chat, I then explain to my Mom in law as John is walking away how safe this climbing thing is and how we use ropes and gear as a safety check. John then goes up and solos this route RIGHT IN FRONT OF HER, she gives me this look of absolute discust like I was fibbing to her about the safety thing. Thanks John!
Peace
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ec
climber
ca
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Mar 29, 2008 - 06:33pm PT
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Croft showed-up at Sunrise Mountain Sports years ago when we had designs for a new climbing gym/shop. Someone remarked about how tall the bouldering area was (I can't remember the actual height, somewhere between 15-20ft). Croft, looking at the plans and calmly says, "That's about as high-up as I would ever want to go."
We all looked at each other with a WTF look. Peter wasn't joking...
LOL - ec
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Mar 29, 2008 - 06:52pm PT
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Mar 30, 2008 - 04:30am PT
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Knott me, but I thought it was a cool bump...
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana
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Follow up to soloing stories- I was chatting with my first climbing mentor the other day and he reminded me of a classic solo noob story. Back around '92 or '93, he would take me climbing to this craggin' place called "The Grotto" in the foothills out of Merced. I had just started to learn how to climb,I could probably count on one hand how many times I'd climbed on TR up to that point. My climbing style at this point could be summarized as thus: Epic-lectic. So I'm standing there tied into a 10.5 mm rope (which at that time seemed way too thin to provide much safety and peace of mind) and this guy shows up, boyish looks, no harness, no rope..maybe climbing shoes and a chalk bag, but my memory fails me. I must've been thinkin' this guy must be a noobie looking to learn how to climb and what a great opportunity this is for me to be an ambassador to climbing. At this point I guess I proceeded to start telling him about the climbs I'VE done as a beginner on this crag to date and then ask this guy if he "climbs". He says, "yep" and proceeds to solo an .11 finger crack (up and down). In hindsight, I'm sure I was just being friendly and hoping that there was someone else out there more of a noob than me out there that day. Oh yeah, the mystery guy was Dave Schultz...I learned a valuable lesson that day about humility!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jeff Marshall had a day of solo ice back in 87(?). He did Polar Circus(5) and the complete Weeping Wall(6) back to back. The upper Weeping Wall is 500'of full on steep climbing with rotten ice. At one point he was standing on a mushroom while placing a tool when the mushroom popped off leaving him hanging from one tool. Said tool then started ripping through the rotten ice and pulled down 6 inches before stopping. Jeff fired in the other tool and proceeded up.
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couchmaster
climber
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I still remember waking up real early one frosty morning in the early 80's I think to see a young John Bachar downclimbing something in Joshua Tree I'd been trying to get up the courage to lead! Then he jumped on a lil bike and pedaled over to his next of many pants pissing (for those watching) solo, of many for that day. Later hearing of his solo at Cookie almost make me crap my pants. Still does.
Here's one:
The late Dwight Bishop free soloing the North Face of the Matterhorn in a day and some of the other Alps north faces. Later, back home, completes the first free solo of all the major Teton Peaks in a day as well. Years later - he try's the same amazing feat again, as a warm up to being the first to do it in the winter with tools: he is later found dead at the base of one of the peaks. I suspect a loose rock smacked him, as he had free soloed 5.13, no way he'd have slipped on a 5.8, but no one will ever know. His gear was donated to search and rescue and his buddies did the Butte guidebook based on his notes and attributed the authorship to him. Class stuff.
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