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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 10, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
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RICK...Is that really YOU!??!
Yes, I am hoping to get to Colorado at least before next winter. but next weekend I'm planning to go to Moab for the first time. Is it far for you and Greg? Don't know about the weather.
Yes, we have somehow survived our climbing exploits, marriage, career efforts, and raising kids. Yet we climb on! Viva Stonemasters and Poway Mountain Boys (also known as Poway Klimbers or Poway Mountaineers).
Rick and Greg--which of you is leading me up "Naked Edge?"
Klimmer...Helium Kudos to you for your Poway resume, especially the Scout Troop 608. Yes Tim Stelling (Friction King) and Frank Green (The Aid King) and I can take some credit for the PHS library climbing book stock. The librarian was the mother of our buddy, Kevin Dalby. Kevin Dalby has gone into the annals of Poway History for, among many other compelling reasons, executing the most noteworthy gasser in modern times. In Mr. Decanio's sixth grade basic ed class,ing he managed to sound sustained emissions of noxious, lethal quality for a full twenty- two seconds. This time lapse explosive caused the girl sitting behind Dalby to actually pass out and Mr. Decanio was forced to excuse class for the purpose of airing out the room. Yes... I agree with you all--Poway was the most ideal place to (possibly) grow up!
But Klimmer, speaking now in the Spirit...I have to break the news to you that it is tough to recognize your otherwise glowing credentials, seeings how there is now a revelation of deep shame. .. Of course, I'm referring to your admitted neglect of Tooth Rock summit.
Do you really expect the rest of the climbing world to take you seriously?
Get with the program! You will completely redeem yourself if you... ascend the famous "Lost Piton Traverse." It begins on the east side, traverses the aid crack past the Poway Mountaineers legendary original rurp placement at the Northwest corner. (fixed -the "lost piton"). Your belayer must take photos at that same corner, cropped to render el cap-like exposure. Consider the direct finish, another rurp placement on the west "headwall." Talk about your chances with hot highschool cheerleaders on the top, at least imagine rappelling the west face "dulfursitz" (not Dusseldorf that's where Satchmo blew his horn when he went to Europe) from a single blade piton driven in under the east overhand with a direct outward pull on its one inch pinch. This was the first ascent style of Dave Goeddel and Dennis Adams in 1966 or 67.
In this context, I wish to applaud Mooser, who summited without oxygen, Tooth Rock in corded knickers while reverencing Gaston in muted thoughts.
Rick I say...is that really you!? Thanks for the ST welcome....I'm feelin it! Say, I remember hearing rumors of you climbing at Woodson in the late seventies when you were in law school. You are probably also feeling some remorse for neglecting Tooth rock. There is still time!
BVB! Whoever you are, you are this minute, my favorite artist.
Also bvb, about the chisel. It is traditional at Woodson to alter possible routes in order to make them impossible. I have done this personally many times and am long overdue for some credit.
Keep the love going BRO's! Also... we want to hear from KB, Duke # Wimbly.
-Bruce
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 10, 2007 - 08:59pm PT
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"In this context, I wish to applaud Mooser, who summited without oxygen, Tooth Rock in corded knickers while reverencing Gaston in muted thoughts," BA.
Thank you, Bruce. It was, in fact, very difficult to summit w/o supplemental O2, and I've lived quietly for many years with the humble, near-secret knowledge of that achievement. Having resisted the temptation to toot my own horn...I am glad you tooted for me.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 11, 2007 - 01:11am PT
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ALERT triple groaner ALERT
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 19, 2007 - 08:24am PT
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Brunosafari,
Man where did this thread go? A few days off of ST and a great thread falls nearly to the archives . . . so a rescue is in order.
It is quite shamefull now that I think about it. I better get back up there to Tooth Rock and finally do her. I'm feeling very unworthy right about now as a result. You know, I always thought that Tooth Rock looked like a trundle just waiting to happen.
This is good stuff. I really enjoy getting to know the roots of the San Diego scene. Thanks to all you Poway Mtn. Boys for all those good reads when I went through PHS. I spent a lot of time in there lost to those pages.
Now, how about the Royal Robbins sandbag story on the now classic "Robbins Crack"? From a distant thread I believe Greg mentioned you must know what really happened? Soooo many different stories and versions have been told on that one over the years; it is high time noon and the REAL story should be re-affirmed.
Klimmer
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 09:41am PT
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Klimmer, I think Bruce is climbing around Moab over this long weekend. He will certainly know the Robbins story. I think I'm out of good stories, more from having a bad memory about personal events than anything. I will say this about those days, being in the Poway Mountain Boys was mostly about having fun (commonly at each other's expense). We never took ourselves very seriously, at least up until, say, the late '70s. I can't imagine that any of us ever even went so far as doing pullups or otherwise working out for the benefit of our climbing (until later). Turns out, that there was alot of natural talent. But that was just gravy.
Bruce's brother Kinley (aka Whimp) , lurking here no doubt, was one of the funniest. It came seemingly at my expense more often than not, but funny is funny. I remember hanging out in the Humboldt parking lot below Tahquitz one time, probably 1971, when Mark Powell came strolling by. Kinley had said or done something stupid and everyone was chastizing him saying "Whimp!" Without missing a beat, just as Mark was passing him (and me), Kinley turns to me and says "Whimp!"
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 22, 2007 - 01:20pm PT
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Hi Klimmer and Eeyonkee and all Woodson devotees. Yea, I went to Moab and had a good time climbing my first desert tower (Castleton via the Kor route)!
Last year Royal Robbins showed up in Bend, Oregon, and gave a slide show and lecture to benefit an environmental cause here. After the show I visited Royal briefly and reminded him of when we first met at Mt. Woosdson, which I think was in 1969. He lit up immediately and told me that he "keeps hearing about a crack called the 'Robbins Crack', yet does not know or recall it." So after thirty- seven years I had to come clean and confess to him the truth of that moment...a sin of omission, yet bourne of respect and innocent shock.
You have to understand the mindset and stage of development of the Poway Mountaineers at that time. Our principle source of knowledge was "Summit" magazine, and in those days, Robbins was regularly submitting accounts of his mind-blowing big wall first ascents. Absolutely nothing in life could compete with our adoration. He and Chouinard and Pratt and Frost and the other Yosemite climbers were to us as Hercules and Odyssus and Apollo and Mickey Mantle. At this time I don't think any of us considered ourselves to be real climbers. It was all still a game of mainly imagination and desire. Yes, I had already climbed the Open Book at Tahquitz, but after all, real climbs had crevasses and Pendulum traverses and grade 6 nail-ups and
deadly hoar frost bivvys. Real climbers had things like ice daggers and fifi hooks, and were utterly fearless. Dave Goeddel's Dad had copies of the Rebuffat books with their spetacular alpine photography. Mt Woodson did not at all resemble those photos. We had heard of the theory of "jam" climbing and even saw pictures but it remainded elusive to us, something we thought was only possible if one was really extra muscular like those superhuman Yosemite climbers. When we bouldered, it really was like we were all play acting, hoping none of our family and friends would discover we were just like kids playing pirate.
Then I discovered that my freshman algebra teacher, Gary Hepler, had done some rockclimbing. We found out that he personally knew Royal Robbins from activities with the Rock Climbing Section (RCS) of the Sierra Club. He knew that Robbins was visiting San Diego to show his slides of Tissaack, so he called Royal and arranged for us to show him Mt. Woodson. Robbins was looking for places to serve as climbing lesson venues at that time.
Most of the Poway mountaineers were far too intimidated to actually meet Robbins. I can only recall Dave Goeddel and my brother Dennis and myself wating at Poway HIgh School for the rendezvoux, before going to Woodson. I think we must have been expecting superman to show up, only wearing the famous Robbins sport cap. We were utterly nervous and afraid he would laugh and spit after meeting us and seeing our silly little hill of boulders.
By and by a car pulled up and man dressed in casual business clothes walked over to us. We did not for one second realize that ordinary looking man was, in fact, Robbins. He asked us if we, by any chance, knew about a group of rockclimbers. Dave, suddenly realizing the inquisitor's identity, tried to talk. But out of his mouth, about ten octaves higher than his usual tone, came a shrill and paniced,
"You're Royal Robbins!!!???"
As he said this, he tried to remove his right hand from his own pocket but he was so excited his hand actually became stuck and he was using his other hand to try and help remove it.
That was, without question one of the most embarrassing moments of my life, but one one of the best. I'll wait and see if this thread is still alive before telling...
the REST OF THE STORY. I am traveling once again however and it will be a few days likely before I can return to the internet. -----BA
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 22, 2007 - 02:32pm PT
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Brunosafari,
What? What??? After all these years hearing the rumors and so many versions of what really happened, and you are going to do that to me/us? Come on! Out with it!! Of course this thread is alive!!! I will kick it until the fat lady sings!!!
YOU ARE A TEASE I TELL YOU. A TEASE!!
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Feb 22, 2007 - 03:48pm PT
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Aarrghhh!
Cliffhanger here!
Please, please tell the rest!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2007 - 05:03pm PT
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Geez! Get a hold of yourselves Klimmer and Tahoe. So, uh, Bruce, I was almost certainly told this story at some time, but...uh, what DID happen next?
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Feb 27, 2007 - 02:21am PT
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Brunosafari,
I can't hold on forever. I'm slipping man. My strength is failing . . . catch me . . . I'm going for the long lonely leap . . . I'm starting to fffaaaaaaaaaaalllllllllll!
This is beyond a cliff hanger.
Get er dun :-))
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:14pm PT
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Fear not Klimmer, I gotcha spotted!
I was thinkin' Klimmer, maybe I was too harsh, dishin' up crap at ya for not yet climbing Tooth Rock. Why don't you postpone your immediate plans for redemption and wait until I get down south and we can do it together. When a rare, lofty summit as Tooth Rock is concerned, historical continuity is of primo consideration. I have sensed myself becoming more and more continuously historical these days as I drink my Postum and gnaw at my Melba Toast and down my anti-schizophrenic pills.
After the awkward introductions with Royal, we separated into two vehicles at Poway High School for the drive to Woodson. Goeddel and I were in one vehicle and Denny and Robbins in the other. When we arrived at Woodson, Dave and Denny and I all at once excused ourselves to piss. With Robbins safely on the other side of a boulder changing into climbing clothes Dave and I anxiously asked Denny what happened on the drive to Woodson. Denny said he "showed Robbins Tooth Rock." (For non-locals benefit, the drive from Poway valley to Woodson lends a dramatic "helicopter view" of twenty-five foot Tooth Rock perched atop a steep hill). We felt humilitaed even further and upbraided him in hushed tones and demanded he tell us exactly what was said.
Denny proudly stated he had said "That's Tooth Rock, a Poway Classic!"
Dave and I almost started to cry, realizing any hope of recovering a pittance of dignity had now been punted into the bleachers.
"What did Robbins say," we demanded.
"He said nothing."
Dave and I squeaked out the word "shit" about three hundred times while shaking double clenched fists over our heads.
The pissing counsil did not end in a double suicide however when we ascertained that Denny had somehow managed not to reveal to Robbins that our Dad had climbed Tooth Rock and also our dog, POGO, via Yosemite Big Wall Hauling Techniques.
We walked up the Woodson road a ways and came to small friction boulder. Robbins did a few warm up moves on it and then calmly spoke:
"This rock reminds me of Yosemite!"
In his mercy, Robbins had with that one gracious sentance, supplied us with enough cause for positive self-esteem to see us through all personal testings of life for the duration of life. To this day, when I tell somebody here in Oregon about Woodson, I am careful always to say something like,
"The rock at Woodson bears a striking facsimili to some characteristics of glaciated and exfoliated Yosemite granite."
For our first real climb though, we made our way to Sickle Crack, the climb we felt had aesthetic appeal, but was not too showy. Still we were a bit anxious. Dave and Denny had done the climb before, but with the benefit of a top rope. I had not climbed it yet at all. Of course Denny and Dave insisted that I go first, obviously hoping that I would make them look good.
I still consider that one of my most psychologically demanding climbs and I still refer to it for confidence when I today try to trad the Smith Rock sport routes to an audience of famous-name international quick draw artists.
I liebacked and squimmied up the off- width as gracefully as I possibly could, definitely placing the requirement of style way ahead of safety, yet I really could not even see the rock. In my minds eye, I could only see Robbins behind me trying to contain facial expressions of alternating smirks and frowns.
At that time Goeddel rated Sickle 5.8. Almost everything we climbed we rated 5.8 if we never fell and 5.9 if we sometimes fell and 5.10 if it was impossible. Maybe that provides some understanding of Woodson grades.
When I mantled the top of Sickle, I recklessly skipped and jumped down the back as fast as I could, not wanting to miss seeing Robbins climb. I made it back just in time to see Robbins execute the final mantle. It probably took him at least thirty seconds.
After Dave climbed the route and Denny declined because it was obviously now too easy, we sauntered over to the boulder and crack now known the world over as:
"THE ROBBINS CRACK"
Less known worldwide is that previous to this incident we referred to the crack as:
"THE AID CRACK!"
That's right, none of us for even one nano-second ever imagined that crack to be a potential free climb. Instead it beaconed to us as the perfect training climb for future Yosemite nail-ups. This was not long after we had saved our milk money and bought our first precious "chrome moly Chouinard pitons. Some of them were angle pitons, up to an inch and a half, much wider than our soft iron Swiss Rings. Heck, with Yosemite angle pitons and runners hooked together like rope ladders, we reasoned anything could be climbed...even inch and a half cracks, aid syle.
"That's the way it's done in Yosemite! That's how Robbins climbed Tissaack!"
In all fairness, remember, we had never seen jam crack climbing demonstrated. We could barely conceive how one could climb an inch an a half crack by jam or lieback and still be able to place and hammer and clip a piton. It went without saying this was an aid climb and we wanted to show it to Royal for his approval. And not wanting state the obvious, none of us mentioned it was our "aid climb."
I can still recall this moment just as precisely as if I had never smoked weed.
I can still recall this moment just as clearly as when Mary Jo Fisher kissed me behind Meadowbrook School in seventh grade.
I can still recall this moment just as profoundly as when I saw each of my children being birthed, red, and roped up and covered in juice of emancipation.
We had no intention of climbing the crack, we just wanted to show it to Robbins as if to say we were aid climbers too and had places to use chrome moly pitons.
Robbins walking toward the crack. He inserted his hand. We witnessed a rhythmic cadence of blurry, ascending, and silent motion wherein he tagged the summit and then rapidly downclimbed. Upon touching the ground he took a step, tilted his head, smiled, nodded, and in perfectly even breaths, calmly remarked,
"That's a good one."
We were unable and unwilling to say a word. We were in flabbergasted shock. We could not move. We avoided eye contact with Robbins and with each other. We were enveloped in a thick fog of shame. If Robbins found out that we aided free climbs, we knew we would one day be laughed out Yosemite before we could ask a ranger the location of Camp Four. It was an understandable case of the thin ice of human pride.
Finally, Goeddel suggested we go elsewhere!
Later Dave showed Robbins a face climb problem. It involved a reach and Dave was six feet four inches I believe. To our happy amazement, Robbins had to hesitate on that move. And then it was time to go.
Robbins had unknowingly opened the door to making our dreams a possibility. By 1973 Goeddel had climbed the Nose and Denny had climbed Half Dome and I had shimmied my way up a few routes myself. But Woodson was never the same again after the cracks began to speak aloud.
Over the years I have heard quite a few disparaging remarks and have observed some lofty attitudes and tones of judgement toward Royal Robbins. For me they are explained my the injustices of history when taken out of context. Like when I bouldered once with the great face climber, Bob Kamps, Royal Robbins will always be to me a personal, touchstone of greatness. I will never forget his kind, even respectful attitude toward we dufuses, and the inspiration of his climbing style. At the same time, I recall Robbins never actually stood atop the Robbins crack. What a frikken' poser, man!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:27pm PT
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Bruce:
Fantastic account! I've only heard others' stories through the years of how that all went down, and your "authoritative version" beats 'em all. I can't wait to read your first book!
By the way, I prefer to think that his feigned indifference toward Tooth Rock was simply because he was intimidated...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Mary Jo Fisher, huh.
Bruce, you're a helluva good storyteller (along with all of the other gifts).
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crotch
climber
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:48pm PT
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Awesome tale, Brunosafari!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:55pm PT
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Bravo squared, Bruce!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
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I'm flattered!
But good grief Mooser and Grug...do you guys have super topo alarms installed on your computin' rigs? You responded within five minutes!? Had do I get one? And later I might ask you how to post photos. Have to go now on a trip again for several days.
Hey Grug...why not mention a tale of you climbing with KB and maybe he'll tie-in on SuperTopo. Like maybe Middle Cat North Buttress at age 15? or Tahquitz offroute epics? Unfortunately, I have to be gone again for a few days. Have fun lads!
BA
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Feb 28, 2007 - 03:14pm PT
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Beautiful story. Dramatic element, historical significance,
humor, humanity...
The poser!!
And remember, he was still in his 20s at the time, demigodly
status or no.
Incompetence style edit: in his 30s
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 28, 2007 - 03:30pm PT
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A well told tale like that is a prime example of ST at it's best. I always loved Robbins Crack, partly because it was one of the few things I could consistently get up out there, thanks for the definitive back story.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 28, 2007 - 04:12pm PT
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Yes indeed, a very entertaining nugget of common heritage.
Bravo Bruno!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 28, 2007 - 04:51pm PT
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Crotch: did you take that shot of Robbins? That's a great angle I've never seen before, other than just the view from doing that face on that same corner. Great shot!
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