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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 20, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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Great pictures & posts. I was really bummed to miss Dolt's daughter ( Lilabiene ) a couple weeks ago, But everything added here in the last few weeks has been great.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 20, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Right now its getting HOT outside, it will be good on Wed for sure.
The boss man just let us know that we getting out at 2 on wed... time to go do some climbing after work. Great.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 21, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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Hope to see you there today guy! I'll be there by 4:30 or so =))
Dan - thanks so much for the old photos and stories. I read your little blurb from the magazine about firewalking on your hands...then I googled it...could not find any reference to anyone else doing it. You know if others have? Do you still firewalk?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 21, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Matty, I have not firewalked for about 14 years. Before that I did it for about 14 years! I started thinking maybe I was part of the climate change problem building all those big bonfires! To do it on your hands you have to be able to walk on your hands proficiently - that leaves out quite a few people. I would get into a frog stand and press into a handstand and then take off. I would actually walk on HOT coals too. Much firewalking gets done on coals that are already burned out - that hardly glow in the dark. At the end of one firewalking session in which a guy younger than me ( I may have been 40 and he 25 ) copied everything I did that night, including carrying somebody piggyback across the coals, decided to follow me across doing a handstand. The coals were starting to die down by then and we raked them into a maybe 2 to 3 foot wide area to cross. I did it first - there was enough there to get each hand in the fire - I did fine. He blisterd every one of his fingers when he did it. I had already done that in learning and building up to what I knew! Nevertheless, there was no way for me to know if he would get burned or not, and warning somebody as exuberant as he was would be pointless - in firewalking it may be counterproductive to tell somebody they're gonna burn. I could write a book and wanted to but it's all a little weird. It seems to boil down (I like punns) to being able to extend your Chi energy to the bitter end - then there is no bitter end. It is hard to do that in the face of what is going on. That makes it a Martial Art thing to me. If somebody absolutely surrenders their hands to the heat with no holding back, they will be OK. The trouble is, I doubt somebody can get to that point of letting go on the hands without getting burned first. I have no idea what happened to that young guy. I doubt that he died.
Just so we don't screw up the Stoney Point thread with this crap I'll maybe start a new thread. There are a number of climbers I've shown how to firewalk including Scott Fischer, Greg Child, Rich Jonston of the Vertical Club, Mark Rodell,..........
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 21, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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I quite enjoy threads like this, celebrating klettergartens near to big cities. The kinds of places where many of us got started climbing.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 21, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Just so we don't screw up the Stoney Point thread with this crap I'll maybe start a new thread. There are a number of climbers I've shown how to firewalk including Scott Fischer, Greg Child, and Mark Rodell!
Don't worry, we get OT all the time on this one.... lots of stuff goes on at Stoney besides rockclimbing.
And Mighty.... what do they have in BC for a local pile o rocks?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 21, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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Well, in and near Vancouver the traditional spots were the North Van quarry and Lighthouse Park, although there was climbing near the BCMC cabin on Grouse, on Crown and the Camel, and Seymour, some perhaps pre-war. There are now a half dozen or more spots in various places along the north shore, although half or more the traffic may still be to Lighthouse Park. A lovely spot, and one of the last bits of old growth forest near sea level in the lower mainland.
There's also some stuff in the Fraser Valley, but nowadays with better roads, people often simply go to Squamish on summer evenings.
Andy's thread, mostly about Lighthouse Park and area, is at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/724921/By-the-sea-the-shining-sea We're still hoping Chaz will visit, and take kite photos of the lighthouse.
Someone I talked with the other day started climbing in Munich, and had lots to say about the klettergarten there.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 22, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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Happy Thanksgiving to all of you Stoney Point nuts.
Keep pulling.
Don't forget it takes everyone pulling on their corner of the planet to keep the planet spinning.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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thread drifts are not a problem the stoney thread will remain..
these guys want to learn more and more about the point!
happy-turkey weekend.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 23, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Damn the Torpedos! Ok - well they are sandstone so maybe they belong in the Stoney 'Point' thread. After I moved to Idaho, my parents followed me to there, and then they moved to Wyoming after buying a piece of property that had some sandstone boulders. It was outside Riverton. They would have made a nice centerpiece for a Hugh Hefner theme. It was just one of those things I never followed through on. Here they are about 37 years later - enjoy!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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McHale tell us about stoney's obscure aid climbs if ya have any?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 24, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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NOTHING at Stoney Point is obscure! :>) I don't have anything fun to report really, even though it was all fun. I don't think I ever did the Boche Death Route but I'm not sure. There's a good chance I did. I did a fair amount of practice nailing at The Quarry in Boise getting ready for soloing the Dihedral in 77 (and 75 - got iced out that year and hit in the face with a nice chunk of ice. What stopped me there, though, was just not being able to jumar the icey ropes). I remember now, too, that somebody stole the jumars I had left up there. That could have been the final straw!
The original plan for 77' was to climb the Salathe with my friend Tom McLeod but we got totally rained out earlier that spring (couldn't even start) so I went back and soloed the Leaning Tower and Dihedral Wall in June in about a ten day period.
I took a grounder from the top of one of the walls at the Quarry during a practice session for El Cap and cut a vessel on the side of my head. We were on the way to the hospital but then we stopped the bleeding, so I never went until it had healed over and the vessel had broken under the skin. When I did get it opened back up, the doctor and nurse and wall of the clinic got sprayed with blood! I think I still had the stitches in when I soloed the Dihedral. I think that was the only aid fall I had ever taken. The rock at the Quarry was pretty good stuff, so it was easy to push on it, but still, it was not granite. I was certainly nailing more difficult things than what is encountered on the Dihedral. I mostly aided thin cracks there, that had little potential of going free but the one I fell on was mostly blades behind flakes that were a little too thin.
When a person learns to nail at Stoney they can probably appreciate more the bight of pin tips, hooks, and bashies in real rock.
I'll get a photo printed from climbing at the quarry and post it here when I have time. I also found 2 slides of trying the main face at Stoney free - the section between the large main crack (CS crack?) and the shorter left hand crack. I got about half way up between that flared chimney feature in the middle of the face and the top. Like I said in another post, we never went back to try again.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 25, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Mark Thorpe's article about Stoney Point in Ventura Blvd Magazine is on the streets. Although it is not a technical exercise is it a very well written and thoughtful accounting of where we climb.
It's well worth a read.
An online edition is likely to be posted soon to:
http://www.ourventurablvd.com/
Here's the link to the photos - Mark there's a couple of good ones of you....
http://galleries.jeffberting.com/stoney_point/index.html
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Nice link, thank you.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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Raining hard..... closed for the weekend!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Nov 29, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Cool article, thanks for the link! To bad that Cole Gibson guy hasn't a clue what he's talking about...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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Mchale this is some obscure aid line which is right next to sculpters crack. we have a little info but not much.
also: no climbing on the sandstone after a good soaking!!!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
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I have seen features like that in sandstone. Pins may have been placed in those holes but they could have a natural beginning. I have seen natural pockets in incipient cracks like that. I don't recall nailing that one.
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