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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Good for rock fall to eh? You never see it coming!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Oh ya! Those are great. How many more holes do you get out of a bosch thats wrapped in duct tape? It probably helps refract the electrons for more efficient use...
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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You'd have to ask Ger. I know that thing is no longer in service though...
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oct 11, 2010 - 09:59am PT
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OT stretcher.....
Jeff and John spot the next dirty trad line on......yes, you guessed it, Grey Eagle.
Nater -
Nice shot of you on 'Spread Eagle'.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Oct 12, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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Naw Grahm, but combined with my walki-talkie and aluminum hat I swear I was speaking with aliens.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 15, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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Gray Eagle... Can anyone identify this route? I have an action pic from Royal for Grahm's history section and I'm trying to nail it down. Looks like it got done in Sept. 1975 (or at least that is the date on the slide... ). Thanks!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 15, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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And, speaking of Hats, how about this dashing pair? Seen here @ Lembert parking.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 15, 2010 - 01:27am PT
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Hey, it's Dr. Smooth! Seen that hat before! Very nice!
Tom, That's a familiar sight, but don't believe we have any reported info on that line as of yet.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 15, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
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ok so Nate thinks Intrepid Voyage (.10a) or Road to Zion (.10a), anyone know which one?
Or are we way off?
Thanks Sue, I figured either you or John would know, or Tork, or Matt, or Mooch, etc.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Oct 15, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
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sent you an email Tom...
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Oct 15, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
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It could very well be a unique line. That's a pretty-good sized chunk of rock there.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 15, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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OK so to clarify, the red line was my guess (don't actually know where the route started) so the only thing I know for certain is the climber in the photo I have is approx. where the red arrow ends. I figure they got their via the path of least resistance. They are approx. 25' climber's left of the huge yellow dihedral, not in the corner.
(no I don't wanna post the pic... it'll spoil it for publication if Grahm uses it). Thanks for the help... getting closer.
Calling Matt...
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 15, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
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IV or very near.
HMMMM......
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 15, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
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Closer to Road to Zion (which is right of IV, right Matt?), but it may be an easier variation, John thinks. Pete Cassam also climbed an obvious line in this vicinity.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 15, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
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Suddenly aware here that you guys seem to be getting close to putting out a new guidebook. Congratulations! What a relief -- Spencer is even more out of date than the free climbing guide to the Valley.
This prompts me to mention a few things on Fresno Dome.
First of all, let's call it Wamello. John Muir noted that was its name, and we always used Wamello at the Rockcraft School with Royal.
Then, we had climbed the South Buttress ("South Pillar" in Spencer, who lists a supposed FA in '85) back in the Rockcraft days in the early 70s. I guided it then, onsight. Not claiming the FA myself, but it was definitely a Rockcraft route. We avoided the bolted crux by starting in from the right, maybe 50 feet up the gully. I like the newer direct start, though. Much finer line.
"Fresno Flats" was originally 5.8X. I was the instigator of retrobolting it back in the mid-90s. That could be controversial, so here's the deal: The FA is listed as "Unknown." I asked around for a couple of years but could not find out who did it so I could talk to them. It seemed sad to me to waste a beautiful, beginner-friendly slab on a death route. So when I couldn't find the first ascentionists to talk to, I managed to get up the cojones to lead it, then laid out the retrobolting. Mike Arechiga actually installed the bolts. We are pleased with its current condition and I have guided at least 20 ascents. Everyone likes the climb.
FWIW, we now call that climb Wamello Rising, as Fresno Flats seems so uninspiring.
No doubt you have fresh topos for newer routes on Wamello. I'll just mention two:
A new bolted route maybe a year old has cropped up on that same slab, between Wamello Rising and Watership Down. I climbed it on Sunday, and it's good. 5.8 off the deck, well-protected, good position. There are now a number of bolted variations over the headwall above, from 5.8R to 5.10a.
You probably have topo for the right extension off Mule Train, 2 pitches, 5.9, FA Lawrence Garcia.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 15, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
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DR,
I don't believe Grahm is including Fres... uh, I mean Wamello Dome in the Shuteye guide.
Cool info though, and someone should do a small guide for it anyway. A lot has changed!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Oct 15, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
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Thanks for those tidbits Doug!
Grahm isn't including Wamello in the Shuteye guide, but there are a couple of us who have been gathering info for these other areas in SoYo for years. (Truly daunting task, but nobody is in any rush to publish. Just passionate about the area and it's history.) Our friend Jerry Anderson is possibly the most familiar with Wamello, being quite active there for years, and the new routes you speak of are likely his (don't have my topos in front of me).
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oct 15, 2010 - 04:42pm PT
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By memory.....not by Matt's topo (the hand drawn topo was a thing of beuaty but "someone", other than myself, lost it :P ).
Intrepid Voyage' (in magenta)
DR-
Left of Mule Train (about 60 or 70') is a route called 'Buggery On The High Seas' (.10b), that Roger Hayashi and myself installed in July 2000. Seven (7) bolts on P1 and five (5) bolts on P2. Joins from the right, at 'Whiskey Bill's P3 anchors.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Oct 15, 2010 - 05:04pm PT
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Thanks Mooch, right about where your line meets the red line is where the climber is, and the rope does sorta bank off and right (looking down at climber) so it could have been Intrepid Voyage, or some kind of variation. Looks like a lot of ways to start it (?).
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Oct 15, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
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Wow Mooch, What have you NOT Done?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!