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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jul 27, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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Hawkeye, is that you on the cover of this piece of literature?
I coulda sworn that was you.
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yo
climber
Mudcat Spire
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Jul 27, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Yeah so Grossman was running his mouth, I get it.
But Wings of Steel--hardest wall route in the known universe--got sent before Grossman's routes.
(Tempted to add a snarky just sayin' but shan't!)
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 27, 2011 - 03:15am PT
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Hey Karl,
I wanna know what #5 is. And I agree with #6. But #42 is where it is at.
#2 should probably have had to do with the crappers on the rope but I wasn't cleaver enough to think of it.
I can tell you that #72 is the new bear gang-banger at the base of El Cap
Peace
karl
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jul 27, 2011 - 06:08am PT
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off whitey,
so WTF? SG is your buddy. why the quite now? SG proves and is the example that the intenet talk is cheap. unfortunately for him he also had it in print in the BW how to book on ethics. so just WTF kind of ethics does he have anyway? total BS is what hes got.
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BASE1361
climber
Yosemite Valley National Park
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Jul 27, 2011 - 08:02am PT
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+100 to BASE 104 post.
Only 2 people in the last 28 years finally went and DID something instead of talk sh#t and be hateful over a route on a silly rock that's been here longer than time.
Move on.
Ammon and Kait write it up and $ell it.
Go big
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 27, 2011 - 08:44am PT
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"Many that gave you a hard time had nothing to do with Yosar and were never members of the team."
MSmith: "You seem to have been there. Name one."
Well I was on YOSAR that spring and I had nothing to do with the shitting episode or the heckling that night. I heard about it after the fact, but I had zero to do with any of it. And yes, the vast majority, if not all the climbers I knew at that time, both in and out of the Valley, roundly heaped verbal abuse on you and your efforts. Nice way to try and rewrite history there champ.
So there goes your "Name one" assertion.
carry on
Pat Nay
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 27, 2011 - 09:16am PT
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Hi Pat,
Wasn't he saying name 1 who was not part of YOSAR?
Meaty said...Many that gave you a hard time had nothing to do with Yosar and were never members of the team.
Then Smith replied...You seem to have been there. Name one.
Prod.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 27, 2011 - 10:40am PT
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You know, much is being drummed up about the crapping on the ropes.
What was quite a bit worse though was the assault made on Jensen and Smith from the Aquarian. A french team launched their paper bag of crap on them from far above, did score on Smith---covered him--- and then the french finished their climb. They even jeered down to the WOS party as it happened. That was obviously an assault. Much worse than the ropes incident.
I realize how much Mark and Richard can't help positioning themselves as embattled and martyred and they on some level need to view themselves this way even, but with this poop-throwing event, no one could blame them.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jul 27, 2011 - 11:06am PT
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I used to think of most wall climbers as enlightened.
This thread tears those thoughts to ribbons.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 27, 2011 - 11:11am PT
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+1 104
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jul 27, 2011 - 11:20am PT
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It's not wall climbers in general.
There was a pervasive culture of mistrust and hate amongst certain valley lifers and their chosen insiders that came to an unfortunate head in 1982. Unfortunately the WOS FAionistas were on the receiving end of that.
Dimitri's apparent rage and vitriol in his posts above a vestige of that culture.
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Meaty
climber
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Jul 27, 2011 - 11:42am PT
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Prod, again, many that were never on Yosar gave them a piece of their minds.
Peter, a few American teams did the same from the Aquarian. And if you and many others knew who they were you'd be surprised.
Mark, I'm never going to forgive these as#@&%es for claiming it was me that sh#t on their ropes. Just human nature to defend myself. They even had one of their chump pals blame me on this thread. Werner was the only one to make a post saying it wasn't me but their pal Randy just kept repeating that lie.
TwistedDick, Go ahead and call me one of the shitters and you'll get sh#t right back in your face. You're just one that has no clue about so much that happened in the Valley over the years. You don't know about the folks arrested and prosecuted in Federal court in Fresno for vandalizing my vehicle over ethics, do you? One just happens to post here all the time. I've had more bolts chopped in Yosemite than anyone else. If you can't stand the anger then too f*#king bad.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Jul 27, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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That's Meaty on the left.
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Meaty
climber
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Jul 27, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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I'll talk sh#t to your face if you'd like Mr.Granite, bring it on bitch.
Send me an e-mail and we can get together and talk things over in person.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jul 27, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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Dimitri was not one of the sh!tters.
(FACT - in ST parlance)
But his social skills fostered a culture where the real sh!tters could do their thing.
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Meaty
climber
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Jul 27, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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Yeah, go f*#k yourself twistedDick.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 27, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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Prod, again, many that were never on Yosar gave them a piece of their minds.
Hey Meaty,
I understand that. I was just clearing up what was said for Pat Nay.
Prod.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Jul 27, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
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The "Meaty Man" Sushi Roll.
(The secret ingredient is imitation crab mix. LOL)
Ingredients [ View Metric ]
2 tbs mayonnaise; Kewpie Japanese Mayonnaise
1-2 scallops; cut into small chunky pieces; seared quickly with butter and garlic
1-2 shrimp; cut into small chunky pieces; seared quickly with butter and garlic
1/4 cupcrab Prepared Crab Salad or Imitation Crab
1/2 tspHot Sauce; Sriracha Red Rooster Sauce
1/4 cupcrab Prepared Crab Salad or Imitation Crab
8 piecestuna; sushi grade, sliced, thickness based on your preference
1/3 avocado sliced
1/2 carrot; shredded or sliced very thin
1/8 cupspinach; chopped into thin slices
1 sheetseaweed nori; dried, seasoned
1/3 cuprice Sushi Rice; sticky, seasoned with Rice Vinegar
Bamboo roller
Saran wrap; slightly larger than your nori seawee
Knife; sharp not serrated
Calories Per Serving: 13
Want detailed nutrition information?
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How to Prepare 'Meaty Man' Sushi Roll
Note: You must have basic sushi preparation knowledge to follow this recipe.
Meaty Man Crab Mixture
Mix the imitation crab meat, with the Srirachi sauce, Kewpie Japanese Mayonnaise, scallops, & shrimp until is is mixed thouroughly. Set aside.
Rolling the Sushi:
Spread your rice on the rough side of your nori seaweed. Only cover 1/2 to 2/3 of the sheet. Flip your seaweed over, rice facing down on your bamboo roller & saran wrap. Keep the seaweed with the 1/3 'no rice' side closest to you.
Lay down the avocado, Meaty Man Crab Mixture, carrots, spinach, and any other thinly sliced vegetables to your preference. Tightly roll your sushi closed, take care to not squeeze your fillings out the end of your sushi log. Place your Red Tuna pieces on the top of your roll, and mold once more with your bamboo mat.
Cut into 8-10 pieces. If you have a sharp enough knife you may be able to cut 12 pieces. If you don't have a sharp knife. Use saran wrap to help cut the sushi.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 27, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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Now let's not be too fast to sh|t on Dimitri. There is no hard evidence to suggest he is a sh|tter, or even soft evidence. [heh heh]
Dimitri was there, and he was and still is pretty angry. He is incensed with Randy's accusation, fair enough.
What I'd really like to hear from Dimitri is a little more about WHY he was so angry back then, and why this anger remains to this day. What were you told? What did you think? What did you really know? Did anyone ever take a walk up to the base of the route, and have a look? You can clearly see it ain't no rivet and bolt ladder. But did people simply take the choppers' word for it, and carry on from there?
What is it about Wings of Steel that arouses such passion?
"Pete has an obvious "Bias" but has been good about looking at both sides of the issue..."
Karl gets it. He also knows that there is NEVER a sixth thing. His quote above is worthy of comment. Here's what happened:
 I, like almost everyone else, believed what had been written in aid climbing texts and guidebooks, and the scuttlebutt in Yosemite - "Wings of Steel is a botch job, and Mark and Richard are villains who were run out of town". This is significant to note, because it was my "starting point"
Richard came on this forum, and offered explanations. He also tended to rant a lot, and appeared very defensive
But to me, Richard's explanations/rants, once you filtered out the defensiveness, contained the consistencies and the "ring of truth" that his detractors' arguments lacked
I agreed to give him and Mark the benefit of the doubt, meet them, and try to climb Wings of Steel
I found the route to be desperately hard with the most insane hooking I had ever seen. I've done lots of other hard routes on El Cap, but this one was way too hard for me. I had to cheat-stick my way past lots of moves. I was unprepared to take the big whippers you need to take to figure out the hook moves. No thanks! I bailed. Tom replaced the bolts and rivets in the first couple pitches
In spending a few days with Richard and Mark, I found them to be really cool, rather "normal" even. They are neither villains nor weirdos, neither missionaries nor mercenaries - just regular guys, somewhere in between. They were deeply hurt by a quarter-century of character assassination that followed them after Wings of Steel. They are real straight-shooters, and they are "honest to a fault". Their attention to detail is excruciating, and I am fully convinced that they are not liars - Richard lost his job rather than give the university benefactor's daughter an undeserved A in his course
I have been unable to find anything significantly inconsistent in what they have told me. Minor inconsistencies are reasonably explainable through memory lapses over a quarter-century
I believe they were treated extremely unfairly over the years
I believe it's about time the truth came out, and these guys were given a fair shake
If you wanna call that "biased", then hell yeah, I'm biased!
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 27, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
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An LAPD officer lives on a street and the new neighbor across the street installed pink flamingos on his front lawn.
This pissed off the LAPD officer after attempts trying to get the owner to remove them.
There was nothing he could do about it so he went over there and sh'it on his lawn.
The pink flamingo owner then made a complaint that LAPD was the culprit.
Huh ..... :-)
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