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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jan 23, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
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the Hoff from baywatch!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jan 24, 2014 - 03:09pm PT
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Jaws has really been delivering the goods and yesterday was no exception!
The swell had dropped and the wind backed off making for really clean conditions.
Also most of the heavy hitters had caught flights to events in California and Mexico.
There were some of the most awesome waves that I have ever seen going un-ridden.
I thought this sequence was fairly cool.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Jan 24, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
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Great shots Olaf!
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splitter
Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Jan 24, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
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All the old tow in guard and most of the new crew were tow in. Looks like in that wave of the year vid that he paddled in. Didn't show how he caght the wave, but it doesn't look like he's locked into footstraps (maybe they don't use them for tow in anymore.) How big a waves are they paddling into there? Great shots and vid!
edit: JohnM - semi's are about to kick off at Maverick's 4:15.
check out 'the boneyard' lookin gnarly!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jan 24, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
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went to c-street this morning!
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jan 24, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
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Looks like in that wave of the year vid that he paddled in splitter, the 19th was entirely a paddle-in day at Peahi and a lot of bombs were ridden. It was the best paddle in day that I have seen at Jaws so far.
It seemed like all the heavy big wave chargers were there and most of them were paddling out from the bluff. I should have taken the time to shoot photos of the guys in the parking area as they came in or before they paddled out but I was too busy at my camera stand on the bluff. I was exhausted from 5 straight hours in the sun pushing the shutter button.
I have already posted several images from the 19th and need to put them all together and post them on one of my blogs.I'll post a link when that is done.
As far as how big goes I don't know but most of the guys are in the six foot range.Cheers, Olaf
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Jan 24, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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awesome pictures O-man
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jan 27, 2014 - 10:58pm PT
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Check out my friend Jake Miller's new video the he and his crew shot at Jaws on the 17th and 19th of this month.
Also click on the link I posted below to see some of my shots from the 17th
Be sure to click on the image to see the images in a larger format. I edited this file down from over five hundred and had trouble getting it down to half that size I hope you enjoy the ride!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
http://mauisurfing.blogspot.com/2014/01/jaws-1-17-14.html
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jan 28, 2014 - 12:11am PT
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whats up with Mavericks?
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Jan 31, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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This has become my favorite thread and I am pleased to meet all you guys that are passionate about surfing as well as climbing. I'm very stoked get all the great feedback on the surfing stuff that I have been posting all this time.
It seems that this thread is dominated by surfing and there is very little climbing input lately other that the great stuff that"drljefe" posts from time to time. So I thought I would go out on a limb and tell a climbing story to bump this thread along. It's a bit long winded but here goes.
Maurice Reed and I were on the summit of Cynical Pinnacle back in the spring of 84 when he pointed out a steep face on a rock formation over toward Sunshine Wall. The face had three crack systems on it and one of them went right up the middle.
Maurice said to me, (in his thick southern drawl) “Ma’an, we gotta climb that thang!”
Several people that we contacted said they had been looking at it and thought it looked really cool, but, nobody that we could find, had actually tried it.
We went on a reconnaissance hike and scouted a route through the massive boulders at the base of the formation. We also scoped the face with binoculars. Along with a healthy bush that was growing out of the crack I noticed an old tattered rap sling about 1/3 way up the second pitch. Maurice said,”Ma’an, I sure hope that sling was left by some ole aid climber when he bailed off the thing?”
A few days later we returned with leather gloves, tree loppers, a saw, and a crow bar. With this equipment we chopped, cut, stomped and trundled our way to the base of the climb. We had to negotiate dense anti-personal bushes, downed trees, and several large and very loose boulders. With all the obstacles we encountered, it was obvious that no one had been in this gully in many years or, maybe ever.
Maurice and I drove back down to Foxton a week later. We parked in our usual spot. I stashed some beer in the river while Maurice sorted the climbing gear. We then shouldered our packs and walked down the road a ways before we crossed over the old barbed wire fence. We marched past the symmetrically cut Rose Granite slabs, steel cables and other equipment that was abandoned when the rock quarry operation shut down decades earlier. We then headed up the, steep, gravel hillside through stands of aspen, needle sharp yucca plants, blooming cactus and patches of kininnikinnick. When we took the occasional rest break we could hear the Platte River as it blended harmoniously with the wind rushing through the Ponderosa Pines and spreading their thick scent of butterscotch. In those days there were only game trails in the Cathedral Spires and we usually took a different route each time.
Once we were at the base of the climb, Maurice led the first pitch up to a large belay ledge. He made it look easy although it involved some of the hardest moves on the entire climb.
The belay ledge was littered with loose rocks. We trundled most of them before attempting the next pitch. (Ah, the sight, sounds, and smells of granite boulders gaining momentum on their way to the valley below!) My dog “Beau” was at the base and he just wouldn’t “STAY or SIT!” like I told him to. Beau was running excitedly all over the place. He thought we were playing some sort of game. Maurice said” Ma'an, he’ll get out of the way, believe me, he’ll get out of the way!” It’s luckily for Beau that he didn’t get clobbered by one of those non- guided projectiles!
Pitch two was my lead. It started off as a continuously difficult but well protected finger crack that lead up to a steep, poorly protected, lay back section. I had trouble committing to those moves with the marginal gear that I had in. I could see the sequence that I needed to make but my strength was draining fast.
I was really getting pumped and there was no natural rest to be found. After several tries I was completely exhausted so I down climbed to my last good gear placement. Maurice then lowered me back to the belay ledge.
Maurice was now chomping at the bit to give this pitch a go. We quickly switched the belay over and I handed him the rack. He charged up to my high point and got really pumped trying to commit to those poorly protected moves.
I could tell Maurice was frustrated as he down climbed to the last piece of gear. Reluctantly, he clipped in and tied off and yelled,”Ma’an , send me the pins and a hammer”. Although he was tied off he refused to hang on the protection any more than he had to while we negotiated the gear transfer. Maurice climbed back up to our high point and put in two solid pitons without hanging. Getting those pins in proved to be very tiring. It would have compromised his ethics to hang on the gear while he regenerated, so, he had me lower him all the way down to the belay ledge
With the rest I got while belaying, and the security of the pitons Maurice placed, I gained the strength and confidence I needed to pull through those steep, committing layback moves. This put me at the start of the elegant and slightly overhanging hand sized crack in the head wall.
With the layback section out of the way all seemed straight forward. That is, until I encountered a completely detached spike that can only be described as the tip of a miniature pinnacle. There was no way around this gnarly feature. The spike actually moved when I touched it. I didn’t dare put any outward force on it!
I had some decent gear right below my feet but nothing any higher. I had a solid foot jam for a stance. I yelled down to Maurice,” Dude, move the belay as far over to the right as possible and, Watch Out! OK?”
His response was “ Ma’an, I am as far over as I can get! And YOU better watch out your own self!”
With no other holds to use I mantled, and stood up ever so carefully on the tip of that detached spike! I was trembling after I completed those delicate moves! Fortunately, there was a great nut placement just as I stood up and put all my weight on the point of the spike. I moved up quickly and got some good hand and foot jams. I then leaned out from the rock and looked down at Maurice and said “Dude that was Dicey!” I can’t imagine what it would have been like if that teetering block had come off while I was attempting that sketchy mantle move!
Next was what turned out to be some of my all time favorite moves in the Platte. The elegant and overhanging headwall proved to be well protected, strenuous, thin hand jamming all the way up to a semi-hanging belay stance!
While seconding the pitch Maurice jettisoned that dangerous block. This created a great rest stance before the steep and continuous crack climbing at the end of the pitch.
As we set up the rappel anchors, I said to Maurice,” Dude, what do you want to name it?” He thought for a second and said “Well, Ma’an, we’re both from Mississippi so let’s call it Mississippi Half Step!”
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From the top of the Half Step we noticed a steep rippling face on the formation across the gully toward Cynical Pinnacle. Maurice said,” Ma’an we gotta climb that!”
Maurice and I had been putting up some steep friction climbs over on Snake buttress in traditional, ground up, style.
This face was long, blank, and real steep. It had a number of sloping features that looked as though they might be stances that we could drill bolts from.
Once again the approach was blocked by large loose boulders and the ever present thorn bushes(A.P.B.s) so again we had our work cut out for us, just getting to the base of the climb.
For this climb we were armed with only a hammer, a hand drill, and 1.5”x1/4” expansion bolts.
It was our usual style on these type climbs to swap the lead after each bolt placement.
The climb was going just as we thought it would .We would delicately climb away from the safety of our last bolt placement making steep friction moves that were close to the point of repose. Each section ended with a thin and technical, mantle move. Once we made the mantle and gained our vertical balance, (using only the friction of the rubber of our (EB) climbing shoes against the granite), on one of those less steep bumps. We would then pull out the hand drill and hammer and start the long tedious process of drilling a hole in the granite face. We would then pound in the expansion bolt from the sloping stance.
After the third bolt, I climbed up a steep section of micro- flakes that ended in a mantle move at a difficulty of about 5.11. I drilled and hammered in bolt from the steep stance and then had Maurice lower me back to the base.
On Maurice’s try, a critical flake disintegrated while he was pulling through on it. We were so bummed because without that flake, our climb became a whole lot harder! We pulled the rope through our top bolt and tried to lead the section again and again. We each took several substantial pendulum falls and our finger tips were starting to bleed so we gave up it up and called it a day.
We swiftly skied the loose gravel mountain side down to the valley where we had some of our favorite beverage stashed in the icy river. We sat on the tail gate and enjoyed some much needed refreshment, and reflected on the day’s efforts. We absorbed the view of the Cathedral Spires as last rays of sun hit Cynical Pinnacle along with the sounds of the raging Platte River and the comradely of two best friends! We were well into our beverages and completely blissed out when were approached by a climber that appeared out of nowhere. He seemed friendly enough and looked thirsty. Maurice said Ma’an, you want a beer?” He accepted the offer so we shared the tail gate and our cold beer with him as we name dropped and swapped climbing stories. The conversation eventually turned to bolting. The guy said that he had been up at The Dome and he had been chopping the bolts on a route that had been placed on rappel. He stated that he intended to chop all the bolts in the Platte that had been placed on rappel! When Maurice heard this fellows bold statement he looked the guy in the eye and said, “Ma’an, I don’t Rapp bolt, BUT, if I did, and you were to chop ANY of MY bolts, and I found out about it, I’d find out where you lived and slash your tires!” And, I personally believe, he meant it!
Maurice moved away soon after that first attempt and our climb was unfinished business. I vowed to wait until Maurice returned but I became impatient.
I enlisted the help of Noel Childs to work on the route with me. I was able to climb that section on my next try.
With the crux section climbed Noel was stoked to finish the pitch. He was bummed when I stated that I wanted to wait a couple of months until Maurice returned to Colorado to finish the pitch that we started. Noel was not pleased but he agreed reluctantly.
When Maurice did return we finished the first pitch in one push. We named the climb Mr. Mantle since there were so many wild mantle moves on that pitch.
The second pitch was steep but relatively moderate hand and fist crack that the late Catherine Freer and I did on a beautiful spring day not long before her tragic accident.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Jan 31, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
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Damn, you're THAT Olaf Mitchell. :-)
I had a great ride up that route, once upon a time. Lost a contact on that big ledge, dusted it off, lubed it with spit, popped it back in, then had a go at P2. What a GREAT climb.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 31, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
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Shaka Olaf
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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plenty of North L.A surf shot's
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Olaf,
You have to put that on a separate thread.
But w.r.t this one, thanks again for all the surfing content.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Olaf,
You have to put that on a separate thread.
But w.r.t this one, thanks again for all the surfing content.
Copy that Darwin!
pyro, YOU RULE DUDE!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Getting pitted by the Teahupo'o of Yosemite!
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clinker
Trad climber
California
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Charles,
You surf? That is disgusting. I just noticed the author of this thread that has polluted ST's forum. My respect for you is shredded. You suck. Really?
JC :)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
All the drone footy showing up(Pipe, Jaws)is truly incredible.
I'm home sick on Super Bowl Sunday and it's a beautiful day.
So I decided to re read this entire thread.
It's epic.
The stories and photos from the many contributors are great.
O Man,
funny, your Halfstep story was very familiar to me. Turns out you'd posted it before- it's buried back in the 500s.
Your stories, updates, and photos are much appreciated.
Lurkers like Esparza and the Alpine who obviously rip, T2, ESU, adamd, rp3, thanks for your stuff.
Pyro's gopro stills, and I'm sure his surfing too, have progressed. Cool to see.
Everyone, thanks for sharing.
And I saw some posts from GhoulweJ, who just passed away recently. Ride on, J.
And I got to re read some of my posts that I'd totally forgotten about.
In most threads I'm just a drive by poster or photo sharer but I realize that I've actually contributed some writing to this thread. Personal stuff, emotional stuff, and stories I'm actually proud of.
It's been a joy and a stoker to revisit this thread from the beginning.
And while other surfing threads have come and gone, I'm glad this one has endured.
Thanks to Charles for starting it.
Now I'm waiting for my old pal bobJ to post up the field test results of his hand shaped freak board.
FA Shock Collar 5.11
Minus tides
Lowers
Mirage V4
these feet, my carriage
supported my weight on minuscule edges
thousands of feet above the ground, jammed
into cracks screaming, cut on reefs in the middle
of the pacific, apply just the right pressure to hold a line
pitted fifty feet from the sand, carried me miles to the base
of the rock, squeaked in the finest sand, clung to cobbles, stuck
to wax, tattooed in the islands, cut in Central America, colored red
in Hueco, frozen solid in big sur. these feet. Aloha motherf*#kers.
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