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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Bow down......
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bob
climber
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HDDJ,
Yup it was Jake Whittaker and I. (Jensen) To add a bit to this adventure, he arrived at the belay frozen, but with mission in mind he set off on Once Upon a Time's 12a corner. He onsighted it through two (yes 2!) mini snow/ice storms, complete with incsane wind. I'm pretty sure he was on lead for at least 1/2 an hour. So, he became too cold to keep heading up the route and I reached the point of not being able to hold on to a belay device because I was literally frozen. I felt so good after Gunsmoke then all the cold set into my sweaty clothes. OH MAN I have never been that cold at Granite Mountain and I've spent a LOT of time up there cold.
Such great memories.
Bob J. on morning coffee.
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originalpmac
Trad climber
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i learned how to climb in AZ. the Dells in Prescott, upper and lower Sully's, Granite Mountain, Paradise Forks, GTroom Creek Boulders. all good places
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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On the Coatamundi Traverse, only 5.10b but at the time there were only tied-off pins to protect the crux bit off the belay. Don't ping . . .
Anyhow, TODD, where are all those shots of climbing those super slender desert needles? Like Cleopatras and others. Man, those spires look like the shizat. And how about climbing those big arches in Arches Nat. Park. Like Rainbow and Landscape (what a trip walking across that one!) and others.
JL
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bob
climber
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Stiff 10b traverse Mr. Long. Is it like in Jtree where the boulder problem start doesn't show in the rating? Those pins got swiped out and now sports two GIANT bolts. RIght there at the start of the traverse. The head aspect of that climb is lost. Still a hell of a climb. My buddy and I did Sorcerer to that traverse and I fell just at the lip. Damn!!!!!! Such good stuff. Memorieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees.
Great picks of that route have popped up here and there.
Bob J.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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I think that traverse gets 11a in the latest guide.
When I was up there last year climbing Coatimundi-Candyland, these two YSLs (Young Strong Local) were up there. Got to watch their antics from a nice seat below the Great Roof. First guy goes up and leads out to the corner where the crack going up is found. He sets a piece and lowers down to a small ledge directly below where there is a bolt for Once Upon A Time. His partner comes across the traverse, and when he's at the corner, he lowers down as well. Then the first guy goes back up to pull the corner of the roof. Guess they don't like rope drag.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Fortunately I had Manny rope gun it for me, I didn't weight the rope but I was glad to have it coming from above; pretty darn exposed and insecure, if you ask me!
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Cleopatra's, Venus's and a couple of others nearby are actually in New Mexico. They are just a little North of where I-40 crosses over into Arizona.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I can't remember sh#t about that route for some reason so I have the ratings wrong - not trying to sandbag.
Sure didn't know that Cleopatras and all those needles were in New Mex.
JL
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I got to ropegun Manny on Gunsmoke though, full adventure for each of us!
Hats off doing that on hexes, Largo! we had #4 friends, state of the art back then...
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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I walked across Landscape Arch when I was in high school in 1973? It was not very hard to get on top, I did it with a non-climber friend. We walked over and back and got back down the same way we came up, on the South side. I wouldn't do it now for fear of the law!
edit: also the law of gravity, since that giant chunk fell off of it a few years ago.
edit squared: That traverse looks unbeleivabley thin! It must be gripping to both lead and follow! Yikes!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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As wide as Gunsmoke looks, how did Lynn do following it? Plenty of excitement on both ends of the rope.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Largo;...you can't beat this sort of sh#t for novelty, strangeness, fun, and just earth's oddball freaks;.......some of the best adventures on the planet, aren't they....(yeah;...I left out the pics of Cleo and stuff, as they are in New Mex......but Arizona is awesome and the tits on the bull.....) Soloed across this arch "secretly" at about 6 AM on morning all by myself......it was like walking on a granite sidewalk, suspended in space.....300 feet long, 150 high, and 5 feet thick in the middle.....
NOT IN ARIZONA
Landscape Arch, Utah.......
Also not in Arizona
Ring Arch, Arches, Utah
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Not in Arizona.
Cleopatra's Needle, N.M.
Skinniest spire on Earth
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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But Todd, you can just ride over them...
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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ok, back to Arizona (and Granite Mountain).
Who here has done Sorcerer?
Jason Sands got the first onsight and Suzuki the second.
I've only talked to one other guy who has done it (other than Waugh and Ficker).
...The Granite Mountain test piece- 3 cruxes, rope stretcher pitch w/ all gear and all techniques needed.
and other photos
an arizona tower
climbin it
at the forks
babo once more
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Someone's been on Sorcerer this year... there was a rope left on it the last couple times I was up there. Bad form.
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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What an awesome thread!
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