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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Jun 22, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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I took this and paraphrased it from a book.
___ is a climbert of the very highest class, not only on account of the brilliance of his actual achievements, but because of the spirit in which he undertakes them.
___'s physique is superb: his strength is backed by exceptional endurance, and he trains assiduously.
___ is a master of several types of climbing, and of every technique; he constantly tries to improve his own standard.
Everyone who sees him in action agrees that he is a born climber of quite exceptional quality--one of those rare, outstanding figures who emerge from time to time in every sport.
He has a magnificent style, perfect in its simplicity and effectiveness--the style of a conqueror--and his combination of virtuosity and precision inspires one with absolute confidence.
In the moral qualities without which no man can become a great mountaineer he is richly endowed: cool, equable and controlled in the most critical situations, quick in decision and imperturbably brave.
Yet there is nothing fanatical in his approach to climbing; and ready as he is to accept the strenuous moral challenge which mountains offer, he never fails to respond also to their poetry.
___'s characteristic independence is illustrated by the incident in which officials of the Club requested him to break off his climbing partnership with me on political grounds.
___ refused point-blank, saying that he climbs for his own personal pleasure and not in the least for prestige of any political or national origin.
Few climbers identify themselves so completely with their sport, or are willing to run so many risks....
[___ is injured in the approach to an alpine route]
....He reckoned he could go on for a day; in order not to miss the climb, we decided to carry on....He climbed magnificently all the first day, but during the bivouac the cold made the pain much worse. Climbing the final wall, which was thickly coated with verglas, was a struggle of the utmost severity, and for ___ it was an agonizing ordeal, which he came through triumphantly.
Recognize ___?
Does your pick, do your picks, really look that good in comparison to this paragon?
Hint--It's definitely not Piton Ron, and it's not Bridwell.
Erudite individuals, there is no doubt, will know this paragon right off, but you should keep it to yourselves. Let others experience the thrill of finding and reading this passage in the original format and finding out for themselves.
[Capt., is this better, Sir? Thanks for the advice. Seriously.]
edit, good'un, Roy! Closer than u think; he is not hSimpson, either.
edit, MH, in a paraphrase of hSimpson, "Soooooo cloooose. N-n-no cigar." Both you fellas. Broadest of hints: climbing device used for a belay. --snicker--
edit--Randisi, were I from the real Oz, I'd say that's a "bonzer" panel!
edit, 06/24/12, Sunday a.m.--I just ordered my first book online, one by this climbing paragon, albeit the cheapest copy on Abe. His book is that good, IMO, that I broke my rule, which is "Don't shop online."
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jun 22, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Mouse,
Quite honestly, that has to be Ten Master seen through the eyes of Pop Ten choirboys LWM where L is Largo, W is WBraun and M is MikeL.
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David Plotnikoff
Mountain climber
Emerald Hills, CA
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Jun 22, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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Inspiring, you say?
For me, Clarence King.
For my daughter, Lynn Hill.
And let's not forget the team of Mike Corbett and Mark Wellman.
In 1989, with the eyes of the world on El Cap, they made a rather strong statement about what the human spirit can accomplish. Hard men. I remember it very well. The nation held its collective breath like it was one of the Apollo moon missions.
About Mark Wellman:
http://www.nolimitstahoe.com/about/index.htm
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 22, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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Got ya MOUSE:
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 22, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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Obviously they shot a rope over the top.
An 800 ft rope?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 22, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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Anyone just odd enough to tie in to the other end of a rope from me.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 22, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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Mouse: Paul Preuss?
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Jun 22, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
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Regionally:
Yosemite Sam
Bullwinkle
John Muir
John Salathe
Norman Clyde
Warren Harding
Frank Sacherer
Royal Robbins
Chuck Pratt
Jerry Gallwas
TomFrost
Allen Steck
Layton Kor
Pat Ament
Don Goodrich
Don Lauria
Walter Rosenthal
Allen Bard
Bob Locke
Wayne Merry
Don Harder
Dave Anderson
John Gill
Dennis Miller
The Dolt
William Feurer
Bruce Carson
Doug Flanders
Jeff Lowe
Ron Amick
Dave Goedell
Conrad Anker
Anders Ourom
Charlie Porter
Rick Piggott
Dan Osman
Walt Shipley
Chris Mac
Peter Haan
Jim Bridwell
John Bachar
Billy Westbay
Tobin Sorenson
Bev Johnson
Lynn Hill
Kevin Worral
Catherine Freer
John Yablonski
John Long
Bill Antel
Tami Knight
Jim Donini
Dean Fidelman
Werner Braun
Bob Van Belle
Mike Paul
Mike Graham
Dale Bard
Ron Kauk
Alex Lowe
Marti Howe
Todd Skinner
Jack Dorn
Henry Barber
George Meyers
Peter Croft
Conrad Anker
Vern Clevenger
Bob Harrington
Rick Wheeler
Rick Linkert
Chuck Kroger
Mark Hudon
Mark Moore
Hugh Burton
Steve Sutton
Rick Silvester
Greg Cameron
Dave Stutzman
John Stannard
...
...
& many more
etc.
edit:kinda like best guitar player
there more than one...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 22, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
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Tronc Feuillu, hands down.
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Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Jun 22, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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James T Kirk's El Cap free solo in Star Trek V definitely qualifies him for the list. And consequently, Bob Gaines by proxy.
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Chris Wegener
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jun 23, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
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As Conrad Anker said:
The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Jun 23, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
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^^^I think it was Alex Lowe who first said that!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jun 23, 2012 - 09:40pm PT
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Love all the answers!
So much passion and so many Yosemite biased answers, not that that is a bad thing.
I'm not ready to list my most insp.
If it goes back to pre 10 yrs. old here are two.
1. my dad
2. see below
I have it on the shelf.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jun 23, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
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conrad is the new alex
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deejay
Trad climber
AV
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Jun 24, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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Spencer West
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jun 24, 2012 - 06:46am PT
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When I was much younger, and just getting into climbing I idolized the climbers I read about. Today, I realize there are just so many great climbers past and present, who lead the way.
If I had to pick one climber, who is still among us, I would pick Voytek Kurtyka; especially for his stunning achievement; along with Schauer, of the West Face of Gasherbrum 1V.
On a personal note, I will never forget climbing along side of him and getting hit by a ferocious storm, while topping out on the Walker Spur. He got hit in the head, by a lightning strike, and really kept his cool, in the crisis.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Jun 24, 2012 - 09:28am PT
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Randisi,
Perhaps you noticed, put "Regionally" at the top of my list(which started with the epitome of inspiration 'Yosemite Sam' & then kinda snowballed)...i'll get to the Euros lata. Just Sayin...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Jun 24, 2012 - 10:51am PT
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It's possible, Randisi, I'm just sayin, maybe, the American generally has Americans to read, rather than Europeans, so speaking for a generation who read because there was little else to help form our opinions other than the odd TV special, our inspiration could come from little else. Kids today have vastly more international sources for inspiration than we. I was impressed by Dr. Tom Dooley in the fifties because I read of him, an American who went to Indochina as a missionary doc. Today's kid is watching videos of people whose ordinary, ho-hum lives are still inspiring, though quotidian. It is a very good observation to have made. Perspicacious, even.
There's your ration of two-for-a-dime words for today, Mighty Hiker.
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 24, 2012 - 10:54am PT
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Most inspiring climber in history is the one who makes it to the top of the true summit.
Many have tried and never found ......
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