southern yosemite

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Grahm Doe

Sport climber

Oakhurst, CA

Feb 12, 2009 - 11:07pm PT

1. 13a - The Sickness - 35m - Bolts and Rings - Climb through the far right side of the roof and up the thin face. Louie almost passed from heat exhaustion trying to get the fa and hence came a great name for a thin masterful climb. FA Louie Anderson, 07

2. Open Project - 13+ abandoned anchor at 35 meters.

3. Project - Grahm Doe 12d - Wingo - 35m - Climb up the slab which leads to the middle rib on the steep face above. This one progressively gets harder the higher you climb.

4. 10b - Sahib - 120 meters - An old classic line with a traversing first pitch. New routes that go straight up the wall have been added but the bolts for Sahib are still in their original place. P1 10b 30m Start on Wingo and then traverse across the wall clipping bolts to an anchor just above the ramp. This pitch has had the original bolts replaced but higher pitches have not. P2 10b Follow three widely spaced bolts to an anchor. P3 5.9 find one bolt and continue to another anchor. P4 5.8 One more bolt to the top and a gear anchor. FA Tom Higgins, Chris Vandiver, July, 83

5. 11C - Constellation - 120m - A fun 400 foot route that climbs on knobs, knobs, knobs. There are just enough knobs to make it interesting climbing without being too hard. For added convenience there are anchors every 30 meters so you can bail with one rope or run pitches together for 60 meter pitches. P1 60 meters 23 bolts plus Chain Anchor, Chain Midway Rap Station. P2 50 meters 16 bolts Plus Chain Anchor, Chain Midway Rap Station. If you want to summit the climb an optional 2 bolt 30 foot 5.4 slab to Rings hanging on a block can be reached. Walk off left from here. A 60m rope will reach all the way from the lower anchor to the block. FA Brent Webster, 07

6. 11C - The Big Banana - 120m - P1 11b - 60 meters 18 bolts plus Ring Anchor. P2 11c - 60 meters 15 bolts, end on the shared ring anchor hanging on a block at the top of Constellation. Another mega classic climb. The Yang to Constellation’s Ying. Rather than incut knobs the whole way there a loads of slopey knobs to be savored a plenty. FA Grahm Doe, 07

7. Open Project - A fine looking line probably 5.10 or 5.11.

8. 10d - Optional runout climbing past bolts to join Sahib.

Ricky D

Trad climber

Sierra Westside

Feb 12, 2009 - 11:11pm PT

Nice routes - BTW - are you the force behind the Oakhurst Wall by chance?

You name sounds familiar is all.

Grahm Doe

Sport climber

Oakhurst, CA

Feb 12, 2009 - 11:13pm PT

Here are some fun pics of Chiquito.

Getting through the stream in early spring...

Chipping some trees on the way there...

Don on a 10b...

Enjoying a 12b...

Grahm Doe

Sport climber

Oakhurst, CA

Feb 12, 2009 - 11:21pm PT

Yup, the Oakhurst Wall is at my house. Crazy Horse helped me build it. Here's some shots for ya...

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Feb 12, 2009 - 11:31pm PT

Grahm,

Thanks for sharing the cool photos and beta on the new routes.
I'm glad to hear you're making progress with the guide - that has got to be a very tough project!

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Feb 13, 2009 - 11:09am PT

Nate and Clint, sorry for not responding, power was out for a while here in Wawona.

Clint, would be into meeting up with you in the spring, whenever the road to the top is drivable, to replace those bolts. Nate should join us as well.

Nate, could the poot sling in this photo be the weathered tat you saw? It is on a route to the right of Sahib, mentioned in the Hartman write-up, route 8,I think, in Grahms photo.

Sahib does not continue on the right trending weakness as shown in Grahms photo. From the first belay it works back left and up.

Grahm Doe

Sport climber

Oakhurst, CA

Feb 13, 2009 - 12:00pm PT

So something more like this?...

The first part of 8 definetly has a poot sling down low. Maybe 50 feet off the deck. Tork did you ever get a chance to finish your line to the right? What a beauty!

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Feb 13, 2009 - 12:43pm PT

Hey Grahm,
No, I didn't finish it. I went back all geared up then realized there were no drill bits in my bolt kit, IDIOT! Can't wait for the spring thaw to get back on it.

Are you sure about the placement of the anchor for Sahib on your picture? I think the route crosses back over BB and Constellation. I know I have seen old bolts left of Consellation. I think it goes roughly like this picture, that would match the topo from the Spencer guide.

Jeff

crazy horse

Trad climber

seattle, wa

Feb 13, 2009 - 01:42pm PT

it seems that where the route goes is up for debate. it would be kinda cool though as has been suggested to paint hangers, something like that to link the old sahib sections together, and now that there's new routes with modern bolts in the area, perhaps we can go and climb the route with more than 1 or 2 bolts in a pitch.

The area is so knobby that it would also be fun to just climb wherever you want and link multiple sections of multiple routes in a single pitch. Like a girdle route...every bolt has to be on a different route!!! then weave back in the opposite direction for the next pitch.

Nefarius

Big Wall climber

Fresno

Feb 13, 2009 - 02:11pm PT

I'm thinking that since there's a number of us here that spend time in the area, that we're looking at this as kind of like an open forum. The virtual campfire for SoYo issues, thoughts, stories, etc..

" it would be kinda cool though as has been suggested to paint hangers,"

I'd be against painting hangers on routes to differ from other routes. It's bringing the gym to the outside and we might as well paint the holds too, at that point. It's really removing any adventure on the routes and bringing the route down to a lower level. People should be able to read a topo and follow it. Routefinding is part of the game. If the route is runout, you should be prepared for this, as well as be prepared to take the consequences if you fall. If people can't wrap their head and skills around this, they should stay off the route and wait until they can. Simple.

Unless, of course, you mean paint the bolts a color matching the color of the rock to help them blend in... :)

I know SoYo and a lot of the rock in it is seldom visited, and mostly by the same people and that leads to a kind of "my crag" mentality and the loosening of ethics for some people. Maybe the thinking that no one will notice or it doesn't matter. I don't agree with that mindset and it does matter. It matters to me, as well as other climbers who frequent the area. There's already some chipping. Let's leave it at that.

If I'm misunderstanding the quote, then I digress.

Nate D

climber

San Francisco

Feb 13, 2009 - 02:37pm PT

Hi Nef,
The painting of the hangers is an idea I suggested offline to several folks, simply because with so many modern lines now crossing and in the vicinity of Sahib, I see no way that even a seasoned climber can easily discern the original line, unless a topo clearly shows every bolt on every route, and which ones were the original ones for Sahib. Even without the new routes, it was hard enough to find the line. Tom had said before "Kamps told me once he and Herb Laeger couldn't find the starting bolts. I think there was one within the first 15-20 feet." I suppose a good photo topo would aid in this significantly. You are completely right that routefinding is part of the game, but now with a plethora of bolts on that section of wall, the game is significantly more perplexing. I know it sounds like a gym, but are there any other suggestions? Leave a bit of tat on the original bolts, since it was often there anyway?

Tork,
Yes, I do remember that bit of tat, as well as some on a bolt higher and further left, under the steep section, which I presumed to be the second bolt on Sahib.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Feb 13, 2009 - 02:58pm PT

If I can add on to Nate's comment, by way of example, Grahm's quick topo and description where he says for the description of Sahib to "Start on Wingo" suggests it's not easy to find the original line even with the locals all right here at the campfire. With Sahib being (one of) the original line(s), it is a bit confusing to me and I've been climbing since I was 11.

I imagine Grahm will make it very clear in his final guide and show where Sahib goes and that Wingo project would be an extension or variant off of Sahib.

With that said, are the replacement hangers on the first pitch of Sahib of a different type or manufacturer than the bolts on the nearby lines? That seems a good way to go without the circus feel of paint. That or camouflage paint to match the rock in a different way, but that sometimes invites problems on runout lines anyways.

Just some morning thoughts...

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Feb 13, 2009 - 03:15pm PT

I think the fixe tan bolts would match the rock yet not be totally impossible to see. If I remember right, most the bolts on the other routes are silver.

The original route isn't that hard to find. I don't understand how anyone would have had trouble finding it before all the additions. It is easy to find the start now, it's the only route that has a 1/4" bolt at the start, unless the first bolt was chopped. You pass right by other old 1/4"ers when you climb the other lines.

Jeff

aldude

climber

Monument Manor

Feb 13, 2009 - 03:39pm PT

What a cool lookin wall! One question Grahm : Why no partners listed on the modern FAs?

Nefarius

Big Wall climber

Fresno

Feb 13, 2009 - 03:57pm PT

I'm really hoping I don't sound like a dick or anything like that. Not trying to and I know that email and the Internet aren't good at conveying emotion/meaning behind typed words. I'm just trying to open a dialogue. Sounds like you guys get that though. Thanks for understanding.

I haven't been on this wall so, of course, I really don't know what I'm talking about and pics only show so much. I'd be down for something like Tork and Munge are talking about; using some of the different, rock colored, anchors from fixe. My concern was just heading to the crag and seeing red and neon green anchors and some of the future issues it might cause.

Gene

climber

Feb 13, 2009 - 04:04pm PT

Ran,

You sounded concerned, not antagonistic. I think everyone is pretty much in agreement. It's wilderness, not a mobile carnival climbing wall. We all love SoYo.

gm

crazy horse

Trad climber

seattle, wa

Feb 13, 2009 - 04:14pm PT

Has Sahib seen a second ascent besides BT and GV rebolting the first pitch? When i went out there before all of the modern routes in the area, it was very foggy to me besides the one old rusty 1/4"er near the ground.

if any type of rebolting activity were to take place, obviously replacing the 1/4"ers will be a start, but i doubt with all the route activity on the first pitch that the original bolt holes are still around. Anyone know if the lower bolts were chopped as asked earlier? GV should fully be invited along in any rebolting trip. just a thought...

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Feb 13, 2009 - 04:45pm PT

How about some pics of other SoYo areas

Heres my favorite, Wo Dome

A rare day of more than one party

A new route on Wo Dome, Move Over Rover 11b, dedicated to Bush