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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Apr 27, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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Ha! I'm smiling because I'm not feeling desperate yet since I haven't stepped out of the pod. It's definitely just tips at the beginning for me too.
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cowpoke
climber
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Apr 27, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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great picture! No smiles for me at that point...just skating feet.
ps nice use of the doubles (could be posted in the ongoing thread).
edit: "I haven't stepped out of the pod" yeah, I guess my feet skating started right after that point.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Apr 27, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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For me getting out there is the crux...of course I'm just following. What works the best for me is keeping my feet up under me and almost laying back that crack with just tips in.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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I've decided that Friday's problems with EC were my shoes' fault, yeah that's it.
I woulda cruised if I just had my smearing shoes on instead of edging. ;-)
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perswig
climber
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Apr 27, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
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GREAT pic, Tomcat.
Could be famous - submit to Mr. Handren for the new guidebook? I see it as a perfect backcover teaser.
Dale
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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Ran into Jerry at Cathedral on Saturday, shooting pics of The Possessed.
It oughta be another great guidebook. Then we all need to buy copies.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Apr 27, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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Chiloe: Too funny, lately I've been blaming missed footholds on face climbs on my aging eyes.
We saw Jerry late Friday at Cathedral. Think he was shooting a few locals on Camber and Reverse Camber....we were down on the Saigons so had a good vantage point.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 07:51am PT
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A mini bolt war happened recently at Humphreys Ledge.
See New Rock Routes, "Heroes and Thieves" on NEclimbs.com.
Found this relic from that war yesterday, had to look it up to find out what was the story.
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cowpoke
climber
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and, Chiloe, had you gone to swing a lap before the chopping or other objectives? thanks for the link...a familiar name in the mix, eh?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2009 - 09:32am PT
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Even reading the NEclimbs.com thread, it's tough to get a clear picture of what happened
when you live this far from North Conway.
We didn't try Heroes and Thieves since it seemed to be missing, but did climb a couple
of nondescript newish bolted routes farther left. Later I tried to make sense of the old
route descriptions in Webster's guidebook, and have to believe these were written without
going up there to check out where routes are in relation to one another. As it is, inaccurate
guidebook descriptions add to the confusion (and possible motives for chopping).
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redpt
Trad climber
nj
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Gunks - Cybernetic Wall
Here's a route with a thin history going back over 20 years and only a handful of leads in that time. There's talk of an additional ascent or two... post up if you've got details.
A bit of history and video
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cowpoke
climber
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May 21, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
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Yesterday was just one of those days.
“You’re going to Cannon?! There is no way you’ll be back by 5, Eric.”
I reassured her with the facts: “(a) it’s only a two-hour drive, (b) we’re getting an early start, (c) we’re climbing a route I’ve done before (Vertigo), and (d) I super-promise I’ll be home to watch the kids so you won’t miss your super-important meeting.”
With the hour late start and a couple stops we aren’t at the parking lot until 11:30am, and before we can set off, I get a random gusher of a nose bleed.
Baby wipe shoved up nose and beginning to wonder:
Bloodynose and all, if we hustle up the approach, we’re fine, right? Maybe, but Ken’s idea of hustling is losing the entire contents of his pack to the bowels of the talus field.
Ken searching, while I periodically ask, “You find everything?”:
At the base of the climb, I’m now resigned to climbing the first two pitches (at least getting that cool finger crack pitch) when Ken realizes that he lost his iPhone during the pack incident. And, of course, despite the rest of New England enjoying a beautiful sunny day, it starts to sprinkle.
But, gosh-darnit, we did finally start climbing. Me on that 2nd pitch:
Heading back down the talus at 3:30pm with “there is no way you are going to be back by 5, Eric” echoing with every step, I find Ken’s phone! iNeedle in a freaking haystack of talus and a moment of joy before visions of the doghouse return.
Back at the car, tail between legs, I’m dialing to call Kelly and tell her that I’ll be late. But, she calls me. Uggh.
“Where are you guys?” “Um, just leaving.” “Well, I was just calling to say I got that job interview.” Good enough news to keep me out of the doghouse…just one of those days.
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perswig
climber
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May 21, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
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Please tell us you didn't get a speeding ticket on the way home?
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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May 21, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
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Ethereal, Seventh Seal! That brings back some memories!
Speaking of thin cracks, can anyone ID this? One hint (probably not needed) - it's not in North Cornflake, but it there's a recent pic on this thread taken not 100 yards from this climb.
GO
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perswig
climber
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May 22, 2009 - 06:55am PT
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Connecticut Cracks.
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cowpoke
climber
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May 22, 2009 - 07:12am PT
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Please tell us you didn't get a speeding ticket on the way home?
Ha! Luckily, no, perswig. I learned my lesson a few years back. Shortly after moving from NH to MA, I got stopped a couple times for driving speeds I had always driven with my NH plates. Suspecting that my new residence might be the problem, I casually dropped the hint to the second trooper that I had just moved from Dover to Boston, but was a granite-stater at heart. The result? A warning. I try not to drive above about 71-2 on 93, now.
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ice cowboy
Trad climber
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May 22, 2009 - 07:21am PT
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CT Cracks, entering the 1 5.11 move. The Bitch is in the background.
Hard to miss that pink granite, nothing else like it.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2009 - 07:49am PT
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Cowpoke, sounds like the talus ate your day! After all that, did you get farther up the route
or have to bail? Good luck to K on the interview.
There's a lot of entertainment in re-doing routes you've done before, especially if you wait
long enough to forget all the beta. GO's pic and perswig's upthread remind me I need to go
back to Acadia this year.
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cowpoke
climber
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May 22, 2009 - 08:35am PT
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Good luck to K on the interview.
I'll pass it along.
After all that, did you get farther up the route
or have to bail?
Bailed at the end of the 2nd pitch, which means our ratio of climbing time to driving/approach/jicky-jacking time was about 1/3.
There's a lot of entertainment in re-doing routes you've done before, especially if you wait long enough to forget all the beta.
Yeah, like forgetting that it's kinda an "entertaining" anchor to rap off at the end of pitch two. One good bolt, but silly pieces of metal otherwise.
Family fun in/around N. Conway this weekend. Let me know if you guys will be up north...maybe meet the new pup?!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
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Sunday's possible, we'll get in touch.
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