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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Dec 23, 2007 - 02:02am PT
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EB's
Boreal Fire
Boreal Fire
Five Ten Razor (#3 favorite)
Boreal Aces
Kamet Joshua Tree (horrible)
Five Ten (?)
Five Ten Moccasym (#2 favorite)
La Sportiva Mythos (best all-around)
La Sportiva Meriak (bought in Italy, never seen in U.S.)
La Sportiva Mythos
Acopa B3 (#1 favorite)
with lots of resoles inbetween...
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Dec 23, 2007 - 04:20am PT
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My Boreal Ace's
Plus I had a pair of "mystery shoes."
(They were given to me.)
They were black and had a cushion insoles.
I really loved that pair.
Plus I am bias toward the whole line of Acopa shoes.
My favorite are my Aztecs since they were my first pair. I remember being given them with happiness and joy for my birthday. I remember sleeping with them on when they were brand new to stretch them out before heading out to Tahquitz. "I was so excited..."
My happy memories,
AF
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don coyote
climber
mahogany ridge
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Dec 23, 2007 - 09:56am PT
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Anybody else out there ever clunk around in a pair of Makalu's? Damn, that was a shoe er boot.My buddy Justin used to buy shoes from a guy that I think made them, anyway he sold them, from the back of his van in eldo.They were called chongo's?
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 23, 2007 - 01:36pm PT
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La Sportiva Mariacher
Boreal Ballet (the stiffer version)
5.10 UFO
Scarpa Phantom (w/C4 Rubber)
La Sportiva Mythos
and the BEST al'round shoe...
5.10 Guide Tennie (the last two versions)
 ec
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Dec 23, 2007 - 06:32pm PT
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Mostly climb cracks and slabs. LOVED the original Aces...4 pairs...SYNCOS replaced them well enough...4 pairs..many resoles...then a few too many pairs of total floppy crap made for hunnerd-pounders...then, then the light shone bright....
Acopas.
The best fitting shoes I have EVER owned, though the rubber is a bit too soft for me, but sticky as hell while it lasts...and the customer services is bar none.
JB's, Aztecs, and Chameleons...all kick ass.
ACOPA FOR LIFE!
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The Mayor
Social climber
Billings, Montana USA
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Dec 24, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
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Sportiva:
Mariacher
Futura
Mega Evolution
Syncro
Katana
Didn't like the Barracuda and the Miura doesn't fit my foot well
I got some 5.10 Anasazi Mesas as a close out and really liked them but they fell apart in less than a month
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
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Bump
and the Mad Rock Flash is ok, I had them resoled with Onyx for the gym. I can't toe in them very well. I covered the toe box in seam grip to save wearing through the top in cracks, I recommend waiting until they stretch should you try this out.
They stopped making the Venom and the Barracuda. Very disappointing, were people not digging the webbed rubber. But now that I have sized up the Miura a half size they are my new faves.
Still rocking the Syncros (w 5.10 rubber, kick ass on Northdome slab routes) for long days out and of course they compete with the Mythos.
Testarossas rock on the steep and technical- they make little holds into ledges I can spring off of!!
I am a shoe snob. got 8 pair now
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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May 16, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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Robbins boots 'cause you could kick steps in hard snow and they looked so cool!
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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May 16, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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My favorite shoes were Sportiva Kendos. Even though they had no internal structure, the fit for me was so precise that they were the best edging shoes ever. Incidentally, I have a pair of 41 Kendos that I can't get into, almost mint, for sale, $50. My effort to replace them is Mythos, which I like, although not as well.
My wife says she will have to quit climbing when her old style (wine colored) huecos finally expire.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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May 16, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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by far the best crack shoe I ever had were some custom ones I bought out of Utah called Geckos. I went through four pair, still have one pair left. Can't remember who I ordered from, he made them in his own shop I think. Anyone else ever use these?
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JohnRoe
Trad climber
State College, PA
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May 16, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 23, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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It's like music or food.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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May 23, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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I really loved my old ballet's.
With better rubber.
D'oh.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 23, 2009 - 01:23am PT
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My la Sportiva Miuras really make a difference for me on hard steep face climbing routes. I also got a pair of 5.10 Pitons and those shoes rock for crack climbing. Love em and been raging on all kind of stuff with them.
Edit: I have tried to find Acopas around here to try them but can't seem to find them. Tried to order off the website and had some issues with email. Wierd, I will keep trying.
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scotte
Trad climber
nathrop, colorado
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May 23, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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Green Asolo's still climb in them after 10 resoles.....
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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May 23, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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Ruby red slippers, aka moccasyms...best for thin cracks, you can torque the toe into some pretty thin stuff. The difference between sucess and failure...trickery, technology, a fine line...
Now the folks at 5.10 have seemed to have gotten the message that their slipper is a crack favorite... hence the new beefed up version with rubber over the toe (ironically the moccasym, while excelling at cracks falls apart quickly from the abuse of jamming. This is a shoe not made for cracks, perfect for cracks...
Has anyone gotten ahold of the new orange slipper from 5.10, beefed up for cracks? I'm interested to see if by beefing them up they've lost any of their thin toe profile and flexibility.
Until I find out about the new one, I guess I'll still be shoe-gooing and aqua sealing the uppers on my moccasyms to keep them from falling apart.
As far as the best all-around shoes ever, the second generation of more ergonomic Boreal shoes after the Fires (pronounced fee-rays)are the best in my opinion. Nowadays it's hard for me to find good all-rounders- Mythos don't fit my wide feet!
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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May 23, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
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By the way, I tried the "high-top" Acopas. First issue: they don't cover the ankle bone... Hmmm... That's the part that bleeds when I climb off-widths...#2: they seem to have been made for an alien foot...Ouch!!! #3: the rubber is crumbling on the edges... very strange...
But it's not all bad, these shoes were surprisingly great on friction routes. That wasn't what I bought them for for, but what the hell?
These will be great when fully destroyed to the shape of my fat feet and resoled with 5.10 rubber.
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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May 23, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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Aces and later Ballets resoled with 5.10 rubber,
Only needed one shoe that could do it all
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 26, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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My old yellow/grey asolos were a great all around boot, they finally died after multiple re-soles.
My scarpa rock masters are still going strong, I need to send them off for a 1/2 sole.
Then there were the original red ninjas. I wish there was a similar super sensitive slipper. It seems that most slippers have gone the route of being closer to climbing shoes than slippers. They didn't last very long, but oh so sensitive.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 26, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Scotte:
"Green Asolo's still climb in them after 10 resoles....."
Dude, those things were cranking out obnoxious fumes 20 years ago. I can't even imagine now. Often as you light up, it's amazing that you haven't set yerself on fire.
Do Rob a favor and hire a local lowball to courier them to the nearest EPA toxic waste dump.
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