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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Dec 24, 2007 - 04:25pm PT
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Yeah Mike, I remember you came down with us in Roger Wilson's Land Rover on that trip. I think that was November 1975. So I can say I knew you way back when. You were pretty wide eyed, and thin! Nobody goes the way we went anymore because the South Face-Baile del Sol link up is so good, and all free.
I wrote the first draft of that article and Werner didn't give me any credit. But the writing is so lame I didn't mind. However, I am claiming credit for the first, eighth and ninth photos. BTW, the last two photos are on Pan Am a month earlier, not the south face. The one above me is Kenny Cook on the pitch (8?) above the perfect ledge. The fourth one is actually low on Happy Hooker.
Gabe, good first trip! You guys found the north camp and went down a couple of waterfalls. Just north of that drainage is the start of the "Indian Trail" that goes down to the bottom. You were a little too far north to approach the Throne. There is some good cragging over there.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Dec 24, 2007 - 08:08pm PT
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“This thing is a blast!
Moon, remember the summer of 'free' camping in the Meadows, '84 perhaps? I was there for 2 months, camp host never found us. The 'Lechlinski's' rolled thru (post Crag Whore) Bob freakin Camps was there for awhile, Even the fabled Eppi made an appearance. (I got an autograph)”
Brad that was a great summer, I remember it well, fond memories. Tuolumne campground didn’t have the campsites numbered so the camping was free! You kept the vibe going with somehting you had been growing in your apartment!
Some favorite climbs of that summer was our solo of Matthes Crest and a climb called Mystery Achievement, I don’t know if you remember the climb, had vertical to slightly overhanging knobs with a nice run-out! Good times.
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Dec 24, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
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Doug, I'm trying to remember if it was you I did the happy Hooker with?
DW
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 24, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
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Thanx John for confirming this for me...I thought my memory might have been failing me...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 25, 2007 - 12:05pm PT
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Dec 25, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
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Moon, the camping wasn't supposed to be free. I just hung a scrap of paper on the post, cause the old fart host didn't want to walk to the back of the loop to check. I can say 'old fart' as a peer now, so no disrespect to the geezer.
Mystery Acheivment, Hammer Dome, what a blast. We called it the 'poor man's Bachar/Yerian'. Shadow of a Doubt, Precious, there's a bunch out there. I know of a certain Professional Photographer/Lurker who has an archive of those days.
Don't remember nuthin' about nuthin' coming from my apartment.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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It wasn't me Dave, I did it in spring of 78 with BVB. Both of us were in a little over our heads, and it must have shown. As I recall someone came down the south gully to check on us, DanC or Senor Maderita maybe?
Great to see that old article again and get the background skinny. John, I thought that shot was the Hooker, the looming roof is a dead giveway. Did anyone ever scoot out right under that thing? Dim memory suggests a scary looking hand traverse was possible...
looking up from low down
part of the oh-so-charming south gully
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Anybody have the late seventies issue of Climbing with The Mace on the cover? There is an excellent Trono survey in that one if I recall.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Steve -
Winter '73 Issue. Article by Scott Baxter called "Poor Man's Patagonia"
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Greg: If it's not too much trouble, could you scan in the Poor Man's Patagonia article too?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Yeah, break stash dude........You're killing us here!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 24, 2008 - 12:04pm PT
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Protracted and tortured small animal scream! Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease!
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Jan 24, 2008 - 02:41pm PT
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Reply to Steve's scream of stone (various published stuff):
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 24, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
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Ooops...sorry...didn't know anyone was waiting on me.
Missed that somehow. Thanks for covering me John
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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Jan 24, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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Nice! Thanks for posting the old article.
DW
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 24, 2008 - 06:01pm PT
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Cool John! Now that really takes me back...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2008 - 10:54am PT
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Scream of Stone- best fictional climbing film ever!
Thanks for the spread John. Scott's article was an inspiration worth whining for. LOL
Never heard of the VW Route by TM and Lauria.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 27, 2008 - 09:22pm PT
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Who would get credit for climbing the first fifth class route in the Trono area? No topropes.
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 28, 2008 - 01:44am PT
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Steve,
The VW Route is beyond obscure. I have a topo, but have never heard of anyone doing a subsequent ascent.
That's an interesting question as to who did the first 5th class climbing in the area.
My understanding is that Baxter, et al., were the first on the Throne, making the long approach up the canyon from the desert.
El Progresso ramp on the east face was likely the first technical climbing; 1971 or 1972.
Larry Gorbet and Isabelle & Henri Agresti were the first that I know of to discover access to the Throne from the western plateau of the Sierra de Juarez (1972). (Larry introduced me to the upper crags in 1973-74).
Werner Landry, et al., also explored from the plateau, and made FA's on the South Face.
Fred Beckey and John Long were also there in those early years.
The first Mexican climbers to visit were from Mexico City. In 1975, Sergio Fitch Watkins, Eduardo & Miguel Mosqueda, and Enrique Salazar traveled by bus and then walked the 20+ miles.
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