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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Jan 18, 2008 - 04:06pm PT
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"This site is dull as hell! How about a roundtable discussion on someone we love to hate or love to love. Who better then then a malt liqour swilling,cocky,swaggering,mouthy,arrogant asswipe who has been one f my most endearing climbing partners ever. I climbed with BIll from the Ditch to Eldo to The Tetons and on to The Canadian Rockies. I have many stories I can share with you but like to see ssome people post up first. I konw many people know him from drinking ol'80s outside the bar so post up. Fish,Tarbaby lets hear some stories!"
So is B. R. the shitter? If so, it is completely on topic for a a thread that after all is entitled the "bill russell appreciation/depreciation talk show."
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Jan 18, 2008 - 04:31pm PT
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He's one of B.R's friends, but when B.R. is accused of being the crapper, does he say, "How dare you slander my friend, B.R. and accuse him of things he didn't do! He's a great guy and would never do that!"
Oh no no! He responds "be lucky he did not crap on your heads."
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jan 18, 2008 - 05:28pm PT
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Oh, I disagree. I don't think it ruined the thread at all. Bill has plenty of warts. Richard's complaints just add to the interestingness and entertainment. I had kinda wondered if Billy had been involved back then, as he does not hold his opinions back, that I have seen.
I promised a story and this one deals with some pain and suffering for our hero.
In '88, I think, we were kayaking in Kings Canyon in the Garlic Falls section. Lots of the drops in there are big and ugly, but one in particular has always seemed uglier and meaner than the rest. I call it Grizzley, but I have seen it called Kodiak as well. It has a long lead in of dealing with waves and holes, then a sudden drop onto a rock pile and then some more whatever, for awhile. People run it, but for me it has always been a portage unless there is enough water to sneak a side channel.
That day was low water, so we could run down close to the lip of the main drop, before we portaged.
I lead, eddy hopping down the rapid, while Bill, naive sucker follows. I dash into the very last eddy and turn around to signal. Bill is already there. The eddy is too small for both of us to fit. I frantically try to make room, while he backpaddles at the edge of the eddy. It is a loosing battle as the current sucks him toward the lip a few feet away.
Bill sees the panic in my eyes and paddles harder, but the current swings him around and he is dropping into the notch sideways. He makes a desperate grab at a rock at the edge of the drop. The current rewards him with a flip and he is upside down, about to do a 7 foot drop into an irrigated rock pile with siphons. I ejects from the boat immediately and is gone. The boat follows.
In the few seconds it took me to get out of my boat and look, the river either bounced over the top of the rock pile, or it bounced him underneath. You should ask him. When I got up on a rock to see, he was flushing around the corner into a pool. His boat somehow hung up in the drop and did not flush underneath, so I was able to quickly drag it out before it went any further.
When we got to Bill, he was laying on the shore in considerable pain. He had no recriminations, no complaints, just happy to be breathing and nothing busted that he could tell. Naturally he rested awhile but not as long as we would have liked. Being a human basketball on a rockpile had really bashed his thigh. When it really started to swell up Bill decided that he had to get back in his kayak, before the swelling made it impossible to fit. Even so, it took a good 10 or 15 minutes for Bill to slowly mush his bottom between the thigh braces into his seat.
From there on out, he ran the rest of the river, including every class 5 drop based only on the directions and scouting reports of the rest of us who could get out of our boats. At the bottom of rapids he always flashed a smile while the adrenaline and excitement masked the pain. No complaints, he just dealt with the pain, and pushed on as he needed to.
At the take out, it took awhile to pull him back out of the kayak, and he could barely walk. I imagine he was laid up for awhile after that, at least anybody else would have been. Bill took a beating and kept his composure and good attitude.
To Bill!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Jan 18, 2008 - 05:59pm PT
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Great story, Paul. Seriously.
I'm sure that Bill has many wonderful and endearing qualities, and nothing I've said should be taken as attempting to detract from THOSE qualities. I can honestly understand why so many have great affection for Bill.
I was never given the opportunity to know Bill apart from the single unfortunate context. My mom got to know him and repeatedly attempted to arrange a meeting between us, but he always declined. I would have appreciated a chance to talk to him face-to-face when he wasn't in a yelling mood, but, sadly that never happened.
Contrary to what it may seem to some, I don't hate Bill or wish him ill. I have tried to get him to own up to his actions, and I believe that he needs help with his drinking problem. But I am also sure there is much to respect about him. I am fully prepared to admit the possibility that his behaviors in the WoS context were not indicative of Bill's overall persona. My complaints about Bill speak solely and directly to the single context in which I interacted with him. I do stand by what I have said about him in that context.
Cheers to those who loyally hold him as a friend. I honor your loyalty.
BTW, I DID spend many hours over the years talking to Harding about his drinking problem. Those of you that knew him know that he was pretty set in his ways. I wish he could have changed on that one point because he might still be with us. I miss him very much.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jan 18, 2008 - 07:20pm PT
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Thanks Mad.
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Rudy Rudotis DLFA
Big Wall climber
Barrington Hills, IL
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Feb 24, 2008 - 09:33am PT
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If you want to go go waaaaay back to 1978, Billy, Tommy D, and Rudy Rudotis were cutting up routes all accross the country. Hollywood and Vine on Devils Tower was one of my favorites. After a recent post, Bill sent me an email asking that I remove some of the less flattering posts about the past. I have much respect for someone who after all these years is still putting up routes, as for me..... I wienied out and got a full time job. I still love climbing and hope to gather the whole gang for a DLFA reunion. Until then, I suggest you all cut him some slack as he makes a living with climbing. The less than flattering posts of his past consumptions could cost him a client. For those who have actually climbed with him, you know he has a passion for this that will last several lifetimes. Good luck Billy, I hope you never forget the past and keep cranking.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 24, 2008 - 12:59pm PT
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Good one Paul Martzen!!!
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dmosh
Sport climber
LA
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I hired Bill as a guide to do Snake Dike on Half Dome. It was a terrible experience. He seemed really angry from the very second we met. I got the impression he didn't want to do the hike and climb. He tended to contradict anything i said, so i mostly stopped talking. For example, he told me i was an Aid Climber because i used quick draws and/or pro. He backed out of the climb at the base of the route. There were 3 kids on the route and he said they were moving too slow to finish before dark. Maybe he was right. He was the guide and i respected his decision. But damn he was a total ass to me the whole time. Maybe he was in a bad mood because of something else. I couldn't say. But i could never recommend him to anyone as a guide regardless of his climbing record and accomplished skill.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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.....probably nothing a beer and a bong hit wouldn't have fixed. It sucks that you paid for the treatment though. Too back you don't get a do-over.
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Chief
climber
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I've known Bill for quite a few years now and don't know if his past is any more or less checkered than most, mine included. He's always friendly and usually has a beer to spare. What more could you ask of a guy?
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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I've done a couple or 3 rounds with Bill through the school, had a fine time, and learned quite a bit. Too bad about your experience with him. Enjoyed his sardonic sense of humor, and history of climbing in the Valley.
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mctwisted
climber
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that was a shot when we were on the way to boat the grand canyon
did some craging at jacks and around flag
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I would love to see Billy Russell at the Bridwellfest;...hope he can make it;....anyone who sees him regularly, please tell him his participation in Bridwellfest is requested......thanks...
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gumbyclimber
climber
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Seriously, this WOS crap (pun intended) makes me want to shove ice picks in my ears - or eyes, as the case may be. What's his name needs to get back outside, climb something in this century, and maybe start talking about that. Will probably be good for everybody. The horse getting beaten has long since rotted and decayed.
I can't stand boozers, but Bill is by a large margin my favorite. He's a really good person and anyone who says he's not is a grumpy tw#t.
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BooYah
Social climber
Ely, Nv
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Eff that Damn Billy & all his smack.
YAAAAA!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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I have known Bill some 20 years now and have always enjoyed his company.
Bill is a great guy, has saved a lot of peoples lives, and cares deeply for his friends.
well said Scott
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Well, I just finished reading this thread, and a couple of the other links.
I don't know Bill Russell or the MadBolter personally, but both men have quality's that i greatly admire, and respect.
I am not a preacher MadB, but I know this...you must forgive BR, and everyone involved in the whole WoS debacle. It is really a shame that it has dragged on this long.
Unforgiveness, bitterness, anger and hate is a poison, a cancer. Look at all the lives it has sullied or worse.
MadB, as a fellow Believer in Christ(and a climber), I am appealing to you to look at the consequences of your stance. Your are demanding someone(or many)to come forward and apologize to your face. Is this what JC would do? Is it what He asks us to do?
Regardless of the circumstances(and how pitiful and trite they are)you must get on your knees and ask the Lord for forgiveness MadB. Yes repent. Take a close look at your heart.
You are clinging to some...act, that happened years ago. It is a form of PRIDE. You are putting this, and your personal stature and feelings, above the very souls of other human beings.
As Christians we are called to reach out.
These guys start a thread to share stories of a dear friend. And look what you have done, not to mention the other vitriolic and bombastic threads.
MB, you have to really search your heart/soul! Why do you think God brought you to Yosemite? It wasn't just all about some lecture tour and slide-show!
What happened years ago is petty compared to all the destruction that has evolved since.
Can you here what i am saying Brother? We are talking about eternity, and souls, and you are stuck on some worldly event that happened years ago.
How are you going to feel when they are no longer with us...after some solemn memorial?
Get on your knees, and get your priorities straight Brother...life is short!
Jesus gave us two great commandments:
"You shall love the Lord your God with all your heart, and with all your soul, and with all your mind." This is the foremost commandment.
The second is like it, "YOU SHALL LOVE YOUR NEIGHBOR AS YOURSELF." Mark 12:30
It's not to late MadB, for God to turn things around!!
"God causes all things to work together for good to those who love God..." Romans 8:28
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gumbyclimber
climber
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Well, that certainly put that argument to sleep. Does the MadBolter care to rebut?
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