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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 09:31pm PT
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Henry did the first 5.11 in Washington when he freed Bombshelter at the Peshastin Pinnacles. Classic Henry FFA with a few sketchy fixed pins to entice him up the committing layback. Dusty and very soft rock made this short testpiece pretty spicy when I did it long ago.
Barber routes are always worth seeking out and getting on.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Apr 29, 2017 - 07:56am PT
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Steve, you might want to talk to the person who belayed Henry on Bombshelter to find out who actually put the sketchy pins in and did the first free ascent.......
No disrespect here. Henry was cutting edge and turned the climbing world upside down not only with his ability and grace but also his style and ethics. He could also drink most mortals under the table-including me.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 29, 2017 - 09:08am PT
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Was that you Don? When I did it the fixed pitons were all soft iron and so stuffed with tat as to be barely visible so it was reasonable to assume that it was in that kind of shape when Henry did it. Bombshelter is an leaning very thin crack so I don't think it would nut very well at all. I don't think Henry's partner got any FA credit in the old Smoot guide either so regale on sir.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 29, 2017 - 10:19am PT
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After an ascent of the Martian Ridge and Dr. Leaky, IIRC, we took a look at Bombshelter.
Looks gnarly, sketchy, and poorly protected.
That last Brave New Wild video is good. Bonus points for the Joe Herbst passage.
Not someone I would imagine has been covered by very much video.
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Apr 29, 2017 - 11:18am PT
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Yes-siree, that was moi. Kit Lewis belayed me. He was the one that told Henry about it and belayed Henry. The whole time he was leading he kept asking Kit if someone had really done it free. He couldn't believe that anyone had the gall to be able to do something that was that hard and he actually had to think about. Kit assured him it was true. I didn't make it first try like Henry but it got done, none the less. I put in a couple lost arrows and/or baby angles. The old soft pins were probably put in by Fred or whoever did the first ascent.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 29, 2017 - 01:28pm PT
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Proud effort, Don! Not many folks get to scoop Henry.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Apr 29, 2017 - 02:32pm PT
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I remember doing the NEB of HCR, in Yosemite with Henry. WE were both from New England, and I never did much with him back East, ( he was too good).
When he arrived in Yosemite, for the 1st time, I suggested we climb this route, which I really liked.
We had a blast!
I think it was Henry's 1st route in the Valley. Later he soloed the SS. I need to get my slides scanned, since I've got a few good photo's of that year in the Valley.
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