Dihedral Wall - FA + extras

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Todd Eastman

climber

Bellingham, WA

Jan 12, 2011 - 11:01pm PT

Wow! Thanks for making history live...

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Jan 13, 2011 - 12:40am PT

Or do you mean the retrobolting?

Incidentally, I asked a bunch of questions on the previous page that I think you missed.

Many thanks.

mastadon

Trad climber

quaking has-been

Jan 13, 2011 - 10:03am PT

My first foray on El Cap was Dihedral Wall in 1971. In fact, the first lead/pitch I ever did in Yosemite was the first pitch of Dihedral Wall. A friend and I hitch-hiked down from Seattle for Spring break when we were 16 years old to do the Big Stone. We had shoulder-bruising racks of iron without a single inconvenient, insecure nut. We had our 2” webbing wraps for swami belts and 1” tied aiders. Our previous multi pitch aid climbing experience consisted of a 5 pitch route on the Upper Town Wall in Washington. Thank God or whatever entity looks after young, ignorant boys that we only made it up a few pitches before we realized the immensity of our mistake. We spent the rest of the week having our asses handed to us while being schooled on slick Yosemite slabs and smooth Yosemite cracks. I can proudly say I backed off Moby Dick center because I ran out of 3” bongs.

My hat goes off to the old-school hardmen that did big walls in the 50’s and 60’s. Those guys were badass!

pix4u

climber

Sonoma, CA

Jan 13, 2011 - 10:39am PT

I really don't want to get involved in a controversy. What I specifically meant was the rebolting of the route so as to make a free ascent possible.
Wasn't that the purpose of the rebolting? As I said, I didn't even know about this until I read it in this thread. I will say, despite all, that climbing the route free was quite an achievement.

I'm really about enjoying the mountains and photography of same (not excluding other nature scenes) and not about getting involved in the discussion of climbing ethics.

pix4u

climber

Sonoma, CA

Jan 14, 2011 - 09:02pm PT

I'm posting a picture I just scanned, of the welcoming Committee on top of El Capitan in November of 1962. Regarding the personnel in the picture:
Penny Carr, I believe committed suicide, for whatever reason, several years later by putting an exhaust pipe from a running motor inside a vehicle, while she was still in it. Eric Beck, is, of course, recognizable in almost any picture he appears (his return to the Valley after being kicked out by the Park Service did not go unnoticed very long.) I think he dyed his hair red as a disguise. His favorite activity was to join the line in the cafeteria, pick up the tray and silverware, and then leave the line and wander through the restaurant surrepticiously picking up plates of food that had been left uneaten by various patrons, and then sit down for a sumptuous meal. I don't know much about David Huff, and I'm not sure I have even got his name right, but he seemed very weird at the time. Maybe that was just my perception. Any feedback?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 12:48am PT

The fine art of scarfing! Too funny!

I owe a large measure of sustenance in the olden days to the ever present supply of bacon forsaken by Japanese tourists!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2011 - 04:04pm PT

BBA's red Roper guide has this interesting route description for the Dihedral Wall in its original condition.

guido

Trad climber

Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific

Jan 29, 2011 - 04:08pm PT

Ed- That probably be Carl Huff. Yep Beck and I both climbed with him and there were some weird times even for us weirdos.

Pass the Chongo, Chongo

Social climber

LOVE, TRUST, PIXIE DUST

Jan 31, 2011 - 06:39pm PT

bumps,,, thanks for the great climbing thread mr. grossman!

xoxo

CHONGOLITABallerinaCoolitaOrcalitaHumpBackValdezTheUnCHONGO

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 08:10pm PT

yOu RRRR vArEEE wElCuMMMMM

What's up the funky posting style anyhow? Hard to take you seriously but that's likely the point.

Cheers

pix4u

climber

Sonoma, CA

Jan 31, 2011 - 09:31pm PT

My memory of events past (almost 50 years now) is not perfect. I guess that is why I got Huff's first name wrong.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2011 - 10:16pm PT

Bump for a Huff Tale!

steve shea

climber

Apr 22, 2011 - 01:20pm PT

Super Topo continues to amaze and entertain. What a trip down, up memory lane. Dihedral Wall was my first El Cap route. Matt Donoho and I did it in 5 or 6 days in May of 1970. We had lots of stuff from Degnan's, his father's store. Broasted chicken and soda bread. I'm unclear on the time because we got to the big ledge and were so tired we fell asleep for 24 hrs. We had no water left and traversed somewhat left to get off quicker. We did not climb the entire first ascent line and I don't know where we summited but it was a few pitches off the ledge. We booked for snowmelt on top. I don't think I've ever been that dehydrated since. It was actually our second attempt. We got stormed off from the first bivy. I remember Schmitz and Bridwell coming down at the same time. They were trying a new route to the left of DW. Awesome and memorable climb.SS

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2011 - 12:13pm PT

Hidden amongst the piles of political horseshit are 101 dandy little historical nostalgia festivals. Glad that you like dancing around in this one!

the goat

climber

north central WA

Apr 24, 2011 - 01:17pm PT

This is still one of the best posts on ST. Wish we had a few more like it!
EC rocks, I'm looking forward to getting his book.

steve shea

climber

Apr 24, 2011 - 03:58pm PT

Yeah man, some of the crap posted is beyond me and I have to tune out for awhile. Schmitz and Bridwell were doing the Aquarian Wall when we were up there. And I could be wrong on the year but for sure 70/71