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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
Lanham MD
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Mar 18, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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Zero!
Maybe this season.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
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Mar 21, 2008 - 10:15am PT
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Only 17.
Scott
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Mar 21, 2008 - 11:54am PT
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I have done 8 routes defined as those that go from "bottom to top." That's not many in this circle of big stone fanatics.
Nose-Sibylle Hechtel
West Face- Craig Fry
East Butt.-Fry
Zodiac-The Troll
Aquarian- Charles Cole
Magic Mushroom- Rick Lynsky
Pacific Ocean Wall- E
Lurking Fear- Margy Floyd and Jeff Clapp
I have done at least one rt. in 4 out of 5 decades of my life.
I like John's comment that the first one is the only one that matters.
We used to say you weren't a "real" climber until you had climbed El Cap.
Cheers!
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enci
climber
Hungary
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Ammon, second ascent of Get Whacked was done by Thomas Tivadar and Gabor Berecz in '97.
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seamus mcshane
climber
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PTPP,I believe Brad Jarrett did the second solo of Iron Hawk 1994-95 ish.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Yes, Odd Roar Wiik told me that.
34 routes, 35 ascents after South Seas to PO.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Alas, only four:
Zodiac, 1983
Shield, 1991
West Face, 1992
POW 1995
Would've been lots more but between people poaching my lines on the Nose, storms on Mescalito and Lurking Fear, a buddy who showed up to do Iron Hawk with busted ribs, two knee reconstructions, undergrad, work and grad school (and now marriage and kids), I think I finally have to concede that I'm done...unless my kids (4.5 and 2) want to drag their old man up it fifteen years from now.
aaronj: impressive solo times on Zodiac, but you must be real young or real crazy.
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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one the shield 2007
one failed attempt NIAD. Bailed at Dolt Tower.
take care
dave
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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From my quick read-through seems like Jello has the first recorded (so far) Supertopian ascent of El Cap. What about Oli, DR, LongAgo, jstan -- has somebody got Jello's '69 beat?
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Dogtown Climber
Trad climber
The Idyllwild City dump
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Jun 10, 2008 - 04:49am PT
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Sadly only two.But I'm still young.Ha Ha
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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Jun 10, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
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Two - Nose and Salathe. Hadn't thought about it but today might be the 30th year anniversary of the Salathe.
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Jun 10, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
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Finally got one! Bailed at Dolt twice but finally completed Lurking Fear last week. But more to come for sure.
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climbera5
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Jun 10, 2008 - 03:03pm PT
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Just a few but soloing the Zodiac in 87 changed my life. Per Largo, the other major formations would be destinations all their own if located anywhere else. Done all but two. Fabulous memories all.
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Jun 12, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
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Jim Erdman is the f-ing man!
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jun 13, 2008 - 01:50pm PT
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cool thread, just thought i would mention that there is another steve here that has done a few trips up the big stone. i've done 95 trips up via 34 different routes. i'm in third place behind steve gerberding's 105 or so, and hans florine 124ish ascents.
pass the pitons pete, you gotta have the highest ascent to route ratio of anybody. i've done the nose 24 times, lurking fear 16, salathe 9. hans has done the nose about 63 times.some records for me include
first one day solos on salathe and the nose
3 el cap routes in a single day(nose, lurking fear, west face)
1st sombrero ascent lunar eclipse 1982ish
i'd like to see a point system favored heavily on free climbing, as in you get one point for a 13a, 2 points for a 13b, and 5 points for a 14a on each climb you do. nothing for 12d or lower. extra points for ferst free ascents, and one day free ascents.the nose would be worth say 3 points, sea of dreams 5 for five days. of course tommy would win big, with the hubers doing quite well.
but i think the real number is ascents, of course, seeing how i am perched on the edge of 100.
shipoopoi
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 13, 2008 - 01:55pm PT
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Steve, I read somewhere in an old climbing rag that you wanted to do 50 el cap routes, 100 5.13's and like 10 8000m peaks.
If you need a partner for another route on the cap'n... :)
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jun 13, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
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AND WHAT ABOUT THE WOMEN
sue mcdevitt is the undisputed queen with an estimated just under thirty ascents, she used to guide it a bunch with her hubby for yms
my wife, heather baer seems to be in second place with 18 ascents, and has bandalooped on the big stone more than anybody ever.
i think jacqueline florine is in third with an estimated 15 ascents including first female soloes on the nose and lurking fear. i would guess that there is a few women in double digits, and a lot that are close. shipoopoi
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 13, 2008 - 02:01pm PT
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Holdplease has to have a lot, maybe she can chime in.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jun 13, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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hey gdavis, whoever you are, it was only 3 8000 meter peaks, not ten. i might be blonde, but i'm not stupid. as far as the big stone, i'm most proud of free climbing 3 routes on el cap(el nino and golden gate for first american ascents, and freerider after those, which was never even on my "big three things to do "list. i'm still the oldest person to free climb el cap(freerider at 45) although the hubers should take care of that in a few years. shipoopoi
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Jun 13, 2008 - 02:45pm PT
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Hey Steve , ummmmm last time I checked I thought that I had the second most el cap ascents at clearly 46 seperate routes(Hans doesnt update my ascents on his website anymore so its stuck on 42.) The unreported routes incude new dawn, tribal rite , Space, Sea of dreams, and jolly rodger(leading all aid cruxes)
I'll agree that piton pete has spent the most time up there
but he's got a long way to go before catch'n up. If you want to have a points system imho yer scoring a thousand until you drill and thats one thing that I have never done on the captain.I got a lot more to say about ethics and what I've seen up there.
Erik Eriksson
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