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Bad Climber
climber
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Feb 28, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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Hah, I've only done the first pitch of Gripper--and I was gripped. I got it first try, but not without a serious fight. I still remember that killer knob in the upper corner that saved my bacon. A true THANK GOD! hold if there ever was one. Such clean, amazing rock.
BAd
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Feb 28, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
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Axis, reloaded ...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Love Arch Rock. FA's of Leanie Meanie and Anticipation and Miidterm was my first 5.10 solo. Chappy was in all three of those adventures. I led Leanie Meanie, he led Anticipation.
One day Mark and I were at the base of Midterm and I told him I was going to solo it. Off I went and after awhile I looked down and lo and behold Chappy (around 18 at the time) was free soloing about thirty feet below me. Yikes....it's a pretty straight up line, not one to be soloing right below another soloist. Those were the days my friend, those were the days.
I think that English Breakfast crack is a neglected classic and that New Dimensions, while very good, is a tad overrated for quality.
Left to right you have Anticipation, Blotto, English Breakfast Crack, Midterm, Leanie Meanie, Gripper and New D....where else do you get a better lineup than that?
A good day for today's climbers would be to do all of the climbs put up in the 70's in one session.
Hell...with cams and sticky rubber that's a walk in the park.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Remember the little gorilla that used to be back in the crack after the crux on Gripper? Made you feel good to see him flexing.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 26, 2016 - 12:24pm PT
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On some recent treads Jim Donini say that two years ago hi sandbagged himself [LOL] on his own route Book Of Job [he made FFA around 1972]. Curious what he would say about Anticipation if climbed by him in 2016?
I also feel that there in no better lineup of multi star routes anywhere than at ArchRock. Just looking from Parking lot at this place make me happy.
And here is unusual view of last pitch of NewD from the base of Juliet flake
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 26, 2016 - 12:34pm PT
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KP Ariza wrote
I'd love to see pics of Torque Converter or Gold Finger on the right side of the cliff.
here my two shitty photos. It hard to bypass trees and bushes in the base
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 26, 2016 - 12:41pm PT
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what is it about that place? sandbagged? physical? mandatory wide? few face features? My first trip there left me dry heaving after doing the first pitch of Gripper--on toprope!
I, too, got up that pitch on top rope the first time I did it, and it gave me all I could handle. The gorilla was still there, and I lost it when I saw that perfect elbow lock.
I think this thread, now nine years old, has legs because Arch Rock's climbing is so pure, both aesthetically and in technique. SO what if I always get thrashed every time I venture there? I always feel like I accomplished something as long as I left the ground.
John
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 26, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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My favorite cragging buttress in Yosemite or anywhere else for that matter. Too bad the birds like it too...it's been closed the last few times i've been to the Valley.
You need your crack technique dialed, not a lot of face holds to help you out. I was lucky enough to be climbing in Yosemite when some of those pristine cracks hadn't been climbed yet.
Great crag for cool days. It's low and faces South.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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May 26, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
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Friend
climber
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May 26, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
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Someone mentioned the Book of Job. Sleeper gem, another Donini classic. Here are a couple pictures for climbing stoke/spray/etc
Darshan at one of the tricky sections
Here he is cleaning the crux pro from the inside
End thread drift. Tom cruising at Arch Rock
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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May 26, 2016 - 06:15pm PT
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Thanks for the pics of Book of Job. That "Wide Fetish" shot brings back memories of tube chocks and thinking "Holy mother..!" when I got my foot up on that big flat hold.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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May 26, 2016 - 06:40pm PT
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Arch Rock is like an outdoor gym -- easy approach and dense routes. And on the not so many days I was there this February, sometimes, it felt like I was at a gym. Nothing against it, since I'm a gym rat.
Book of Job is good. Recently onsighted it (led all in 3 long pitches). Forgot #5 at the car and made do without. That's my spray . Jim listed it as a high caloric route, but I think the expenditure is mostly in the approach and descent (for a shortie anyway). Arch does not prepare you for that.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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May 26, 2016 - 06:47pm PT
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that book of joab is a great route!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 26, 2016 - 06:53pm PT
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One of the best hot day routes in the Valley. Always in the shade with an air conditioning breeze coming out of the crack.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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yer such a tease le_bruce, spill some more pics!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Le Bruce and I just two days ago at Arch gossiping about you Nut again!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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I heard a story in the 80's about 3 climbers pulling a stunt at the real Arch rock involving a guy dangling above the road holding onto a sleeve of a jacket while a second guy (sitting on top of the cliff/tunnel) held the other sleeve.
Unseen from the road was the 3rd guy hidden at the top belaying with a rope that ran through the jacket sleeves and tied to the hidden swami worn by the dangler.
Lots of kicking and screaming while horrified motorists looked on.
Who did this and is the story true?
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