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RyanD
climber
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So Harding et all didn't place convenience bolts?
Lol
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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2. The FA party most definitely can make their choices about "convenience" and risk. Your job is to respect that or get the route done first. Not change it to make it even more convenient for you.
Nice to see at least one person knows the difference between style and ethics....
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I respect and give a lot of deference to Werner's opinion, but I have a hard time seeing eye to eye with him on this issue. First, Jardine's chop job is irrelevant. No one did or does approve of it. However, it's got nothing to do with new rap anchors other than they have involve the unnecessary destruction of the rock.
Two, given the route's popularity, the inexperience of some of the parties climbing it, and given that it's been there so long, some independent rap route is needed, unless you're advocating that all those bailing parties (and there are alot of them) rap down the route as others are trying to climb up it? As someone who's spent as much time doing rescues as you, you should recognize that the rap rap has made your professional life much easier. Here, kingtut is right:
Lets face it, rapping from Dolt Tower even with the Rohr Route/Stoveleg bolts remains an unsavory task, especially in bad weather.
But convenience bolts for people too lazy to bring 2 ropes? Should every Yosemite route be retrofitted in this fashion? Then again, the pile of rock dust from 20 more holes wouldn't fill a pint jar...
But I say the world's most famous rock climb doesn't need more convenience. If there's something in place and it works, why drill more just because some doofus dedicated to dumbing down the sport has deemed it must be so?
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Hans and Alex climbed it in 2 hrs 23 minutes. Almost a dozen people, men and women, have done it in under 5hr. Over 600 in-a-day ascents. Free in under 12 hours.
The Nose is a f*#king sport climb. Not because of convenience anchors, but because the level of climbing changed. Feel free to stand at the base of the Nose and tell all the IAD climbers that they really need to slow down, go back and fill some haul bags full of cheap liquor, and do it the "right" way.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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^FA rap routes and anchors are totally legit, and should not be updated, ever.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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i hear you on the worse rap anchors thing, pal.
Just seems to me that both pro-Sloan & anti-Sloan folks here are getting their britches in a bundle over a monolith greater than any human desires or actions, and their furor rises high about one little dude's (much-publicized, and therefore readily remedied) actions. If folks are so upset, they can always fire up the torches and sharpen the pitchfork tines to do something about it. Or not. Either way, I avoid that place like I do disco music, herpes, and Cher. Flying shitbags, random golden showers, dropped #4s: mama always said - don't climb 'neath those other dunces over there. The idolatry of the masses, one way or another, kinda sours me on the very idea of the place. YMMV.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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I heard Ryand retrobolts boulders. Now I'm sure he will start adding convenience anchors to his V0+s. This sloan-ification is spreading across borders. Ban Ryan D.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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only if he starts signing off every comminique with gamer-speak acronymia. then, yes. but only then.
and what of ryand's V1- future-bolting thoughtcrimes? will somebody please think of the children? oh, the diamond carbidiferous dust-drenched horror of it. no one can stop it but us, the ST circle(yerk) of superfriends.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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This guy gets it. Respect.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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#didyougetconsentfromthatboulder
#internetclimbingethics
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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The 1970 Roper (green) guidebook to Yosemite Valley has the following:
The Nose: 125 bolts
Salathe Wall: 13 bolts
Dihedral Wall: 100 bolts
(I believe this restates what the first ascent parties reported.)
Excluding bolts used solely for rappelling, and avoiding questions about all the other fixed stuff, and junk, how many bolts are on each of those routes now?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I told you guys ten years ago that Todd Skinner added DOZENS of bolts to Dihedral Wall.
I showed you photos of bolts placed 16 inches from perfectly good Alien placements.
You pussies didn't say sh#t.
Now you're all outraged?
What a bunch of pussies.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Lol!
Anita has me beat in the Snark Department.
Hey, is F that weird chick?
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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I rapped 2 pitches below the top of the nose in a rain deluge to ice event
In mid April.
This was a long rap yo!!!
Tossed both of headlamps with our third line from sickle
On accident to daveyT
Complicated things
Setting up a ledge by lighter
Took a day and a half
Definitely high adventure
My 2 cents
Rapping on the captain should be avoided if possible;)
I left some stoppers and some cord on those anchors 8 years ago!
What nore do u need?
Good times
A defining moment in my life and a friendship sealed for eternity
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Pete- You need to pay a bit more attention.
I criticized Todd on this forum on the same thread and am certainly no pussy unlike you who was driving iron on C2 pitches when you did it as I recall.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Zzzzzzzzzzzzz.....
Has been washed up armchair climber hasn't been seen on El Cap since the last ice age.
Hey Miniman,
When are you going to climb Wings of Steel, like you said you would?
HUH??
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oh Jesus, this is getting awesome quick.
Isn't Pete the drunk Canadian that's banging that homely selfie chick?
Go.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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So splitter
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