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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Roger- Were you able to remove that EB bolt without destroying it? That is worth holding on to. Most folks didn't bother to stamp their hangers.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Roger saves all the pulled bolts and hangers in plastic bags labelled with the date, route and pitch, in case there are questions later.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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We replaced a couple Spencer routes in the Balls recently. Modern SS bolt shown for scale. We used 304 SS Powerbolts 3/8" dia x 2 1/4" for the replacement.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Nice! 1/4" Taper bolts - lucky to get two of the full lead sleeves out!
Those Spencer hangers are actually pretty thick, they seem bomber. Mega Bleam in Tuolumne has those on 3/8" bolts. It's a fun route on some dome...what was it again? Can't recall the name....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I would be happy to trade the ASCA or Roger some hardware in excange for that EB Longware hanger unless the rules of evidence preclude such a swap! LOL
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Great story Paul.
Here's one you might appreciate...I was following a pitch at the Pinnacles (Balconies Reg), it was an old bolt ladder. I looked up and yelled to my partner "Hey, one of your pieces fell out..." When I got up to the "piece" that had slid down to the lower bolt, I found that it was the hanger of a bolt attached to the quick draw.
Confidence!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Ha, ha Kelly - for a second there I thought you were going to say it was a bolt fom one of my old routes!! That's frickin' hilarious.....
Paul
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Steve,
Over the years I have acquired quite a collection. During the off season the bolts/hangers are removed from the plastic bags, the bolts secured to the hangers, and the hangers tagged with a shipping tag. At this time, the ones I feel are special, are set aside. The rest go into storage. There is also a daily written record kept during the season. The bolts/hangers, for the most part, are not damaged at all during removal. There is no way to put a price on any of this stuff. I am kinda a self appointed caretaker. Ken will probably end up with any of it he wants to display.
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Jim E
climber
away
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Here's an ugly one from the 'not so wayback'.
Can you say 'corrosion stress fracture'?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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That's ugly - what's the story there? Plated, stainless? Mixed metals?
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Jim E
climber
away
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Stainless. Sea cliff.
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Jim E
climber
away
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More of the story is that this was from a study performed by some members of the UIAA Safety Commission. There were a lot of crazy low breaks on the hanger samples. Beware when climbing bolted sea cliffs or anywhere near the sea.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Where was that Fixe from?
There have got to be 10's of 1000s of seaside bolts on the Med. They don't seem to suffer from SCC?
Gotta be from someplace way more humid. Thailand, Vietnam or Cayman Brac?
Crazy.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
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Clipped this relic in Huntington Ravine last week.
As it's at the start, i.e. placed at ground level, it does not need to replace. Who wants to wager when Central Gully will finally eradicate the thing?
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Jim E
climber
away
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I'm not sure where that Fixe came from but it was part of a study involving samples from many places around the Med as well as several tropical sea environments.
Here is the initial report.
http://www.theuiaa.org/news_199_Extreme-caution-advised-for-anchors-in-tropical-marine-areas
A more detailed report was issued at the last UIAA Safety Commission meeting back in May. Not sure when that will be put online.
edit: Actually the full report is in PDF form linked at the end of the initial report I linked above.
second edit: I take it back. That PDF appears incomplete when I compare it to the one presented at the meeting. The one from the meeting is 6 pages.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Here are two very well crafted bolt hangers from deep in the Lost Arrow Chimney. Possibly forged and placed by John Salathe himself.
The ringed one was pulled with little effort from Pitch 9 (in the Reid guide).
The one without was pulled by hand from the Safety Valve pitch.
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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slobmonster,
That's an old hanger, but has not reached "relic" status (unless you are leading 20' above it, LOL).
It's an MHE (Marc Hughston Enterprises) chromoly hanger. Circa mid-eighties. At first glance, they might appear similar to the Leeper hangers. A closer look shows that the bend is to the opposite side, making it easier for right-handed hammering. The sheet metal is thicker and heat-treated. It's a very strong hanger. The eye is bigger to accomodate two biners.
Around 1990, I got the dies from Marc and had 750 or 1000 made out of thick 304 stainless steel. Those were placed in northern Baja. The machinist subsequently lost or scrapped the dies, so there will never be another production run. While not a relic yet, it is a "dinosaur" - extinct!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nice ones, Chad!
Kelly,
I was scared leading Balconies Regular p2 when Bruce and I rebolted it. Kinda pumped, did not want to fall onto one of those bolts, so I was trying to decide if I should grab one to pull past. Would it hold up under my (minimal) weight? I grabbed it and it held. Whew!
Vintage hangers still in place and still good - those are the best:
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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I was looking through my guides I don't see Balconies Regular anywhere. Found The Balconies of course but hardly any routes.
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