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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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moosedrool and Sceagoat, working on an Eric Sloan approach trail comfortizing project
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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This thread is two days old.
Have the offending bolts been removed?
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klaus
climber
Slauson & Crenshaw
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Hate to say I told you so, but I did a long time ago. Nobody cared much when Erik Sloan was screwing up aid climbs, now that he moved on to destroying free climbs maybe he'll get the attention he deserves.
Can someone take pictures or video of him with his power drill in action? That would be a start to get him kicked out of the park.
I would never contribute or purchase anything associated with this lunatic.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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That would be a start to get him kicked out of the park.
Bullsh#t to that.
And then where would he go? To some other more pristine climbing area to screw that up? We sure don't want his sorry a## over here.
Yes, catch him in the act of drilling illegally in Yosemite, but leave him in The Valley and get him busted there (ideally cost him jail time and money).
He's a disease.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sometimes people do things with good intentions, or at least the person doing it believes so at the time.
But then members of the climbing community will observe the behaviour and say, "Hey, that's not so cool, and here are the reasons why...."
This happened to me once in the not-too-distant past. I was doing something that I honestly believed didn't affect anyone, and that nobody cared about. But as it turned out - based on what I read here on McTopo - that people really DID care about it, and that while a few people didn't care, the vast majority did care, and asked me to stop.
So I did. The Tribe had spoken, and I listened. Hell, I even apologized.
Erik - The Tribe has spoken - loudly and clearly. They do not want mid-anchor bolts in Book of Revelations. Why don't you just go up and carefully remove the bolts, and refill the holes with epoxy and rock dust to render the holes as invisible as possible?
I believe this would go a long way towards salvaging your apparently rather tarnished credibility, and is also likely to reduce the amount of money you will lose from climbers boycotting your new guidebook in protest of your actions.
They're only two bolts. Take 'em out, save yourself the heartache, and restore good relations with your customers.
Incidentally, Erik's big walls guidebook is absolutely superb, a truly valuable resource. Even if big wall is TWO words, not one! Sheesh.
Good luck with your freeclimbing [sic] guidebook.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Erik. What climbers have you talked to about adding a belay mid pitch on Book of Revelations? I can't think of any of my friends in Yosemite who would say that is ok. You say As usual, we have a very divided set here in the online climbing forum community. Surprise, surprise. but that is total BS. It is not divided at all. Everyone agrees that adding bolts mid pitch to a free climb is not ethical in Yosemite. And for aid practice? And then trying to divert the discussion back to your product instead of the glaring issue: you added bolts to a free climb without asking ANYONE or maybe you asked some newbs who just got here who need to practice aid???? Wtf dude?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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You don't know the half, Big Mike! I heard he pink pointed the aid climb and claimed it as an onsight!
Good for him. I don't care if he called it a brownpoint!! You chop those bolts yet jeebs?? ;)
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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1) Unilaterall action.
2) A singular vision.
3) A commercial gain.
Any of these, three single actions, committed with a public resource can be questionable if executed poorly, but all three at once???
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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The only thing that could add to the rampant narcissism and comedy on display here is for a complete noob to die attempting to chop these bolts because the sum of all internet "expert" wankery on display above couldn't actually be bothered to drop their diks and step away from the keyboard and actually go do something. Where are the Half Dome boys when we need them!?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Oh, and right on schedule, here's "JLP" again.
JLP has no name.
JLP doesn't' live anywhere.
JLP doesn't even climb.
JLP reeks of credibility.
Twit.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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When my book comes out I know you will see many pitches with mid-pitch belays - people skip them if they want, or use them if they want, no harm, no foul.
Now there's an appalling admission straight from the horse's mouth.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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YA BUD LETS SEE YOU LEAD FOTE HOG AND TIE A BOWLINE IF YOU GOTS SO MANY OPINIONZ
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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I've tried to stay out of this but can't hold back anymore. Interesting that Sloan has not posted to this thread after his initial statement that he placed the bolts unless I missed something.
I call foul. Bolted anchors 40 feet up a free climb to call it an aid route practice safety measure? Pretty lame. If any YMS guides condone this act I don't see any posts from them verifying their agreement to adding the bolts.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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YA BUD LETS SEE YOU LEAD FOTE HOG AND TIE A BOWLINE IF YOU GOTS SO MANY OPINIONZ
Senator, your clever statement is deliciously inscrutable.
But, to return to the issue at hand . . . . .
Is Erik 'Nanook the Kook' Sloan really so insane that he now claims that YOSAR is in agreement with what he is doing?
This guy is living within his own internally generated pseudo-reality. He needs to be stopped and institutionalized, before his psychotic behavior evolves into more harmful and dangerous acts against humanity.
Erik might have a brain tumor. Charles Whitman, the student sniper in the University of Texas clock tower, was found, post mortem, to have this affliction. Before he ascended the tower with a small arsenal and began shooting at people randomly, everybody thought Whitman was an intelligent, engaging, friendly and harmless man.
What if Erik Sloan goes Wooty-Woot-Woot-Woot about trundling rocks onto hikers on the Falls trail, because he needs to prepare the Forbidden Wall for his imaginary clients? Or, he slices ropes that people are ascending or rappeling?
At some point, the symptoms of a dangerous psychosis are no longer ambiguous.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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moosedrool and Sceagoat, working on an Eric Sloan approach trail comfortizing project
The Moose is loose! and he is wielding a deadly weapon!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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But, to return to the issue at hand . . . . .
Ya gotta hurry up and solve this nanook thing real quick, what are we at, 900 posts in 3 threads? Should be able to hash this out and all come to a reasonable conclusion in the next thousand.
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Hey Gang! It's your bud, Erik Sloan!
Sorry I haven't been around to reply to all of your stoke, but I've been super busy welding ashtrays onto all my mid-pitch belay bolts. I thought about it a few months, and figured it was better than my original idea, which was to wallpaper my nuts with pages torn from old Sky Malls. Yeah, I know, a small minority of you may find the mid-pitch ashtray belays controversial, but the vast majority of the voices in my head are super psyched! Not to mention the positive feedback I expect to get from the likes of Tom Waits, Nicola Favrespresso, Ed Futterling, Clint Cummins and Tim Conway. Woot!
But hey, let's get back on the subject of Ed Hartouni's phantom guideboo
[P-toing!]
Wow! What was THAT?! There was this snapping sound and something buzzed right by my ear. 'Almost fell off the scaffold! Prob'ly just some hummingbird sharing the stoke, haha!
Anyway, like I was saying, all this ruckus over my recent handiwork is just a matter of personal preference. For instance, my girlfriend likes the soft kind of toilet paper that leaves a ton of lint clinging to my ass (not to mention you go through a roll per sh#t with that stuff, haha). I, on the other hand, prefer the coarser kind of tp which gets rid of the mud without breaking the bank. But do I complain about her preference? No, I just bypass her toilet caddy and wipe with my own brand. I mean, whose to say which brand is better? I mean, why waste time bickering about it, right? Just drop your pants and get after it, woot!
Now before some of you more colorful oldtimers go crying "false equivalency," I would like to move on and discuss my new Yosemite Select Guidebook and App. The chorus of demons in my head has been clamoring for this for some time, and we're stoked it's about to drop! I
[P-toing! P-toing!]
...Wow, that was CLOSE!!! I think a swift just buzzbombed me cuz the ashtray I was holding just flew out of my hand! Ah, and now there's another two boltholes about 5 inches below my waist, maybe I can add two more 1/2" bolts with hangers and turn this mid-pitch ashtray belay into a faculty loun
[P-toing! P-toing! P-toing!]
That you, Richard Jenkins? Hey bro, if the susurrus of ancient tongues between these ears in any way represents the opinion of the climbing community as a whole, and I'm gonna say unequivocally that it does, you, my friend, are a terrific supporting actor.
Okay, guys, I'm super busy here so I'll have to dish more on all this positive feedback later.
Woot! Woot!
Erik Sloan
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WBraun
climber
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ROFLMAO !!!! that's some funny sh!t .......
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Can you add a few bolts to the left of the mid-pitch anchors for the mariachi band?
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Hey Gang, it 's your bud, Erik Sloan again, woot!
Thanks to the overwhelming support of Valley locals like WBraun, Contractor and the neverending lamentations of the damned inside my head, I've added convenience anchors to the left of the mid-pitch ashtray belay on BOR upon which is suspended a six-piece mariachi band and tip jar.
If you don't like the band and chop them, I will add more mariachis.
Get out there! They take requests (then play whatever they feel like playing, haha)! Woot!
Erik Sloan
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