Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
Anyone calling these guys out on style should go do it better. Or shut the fvck up!
|
|
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
|
|
"When I use a word, it means just what I choose it to mean — neither more nor less." - HD
One of the things I like about climbing is that there are almost no rules, and lots of different ways to do it. Whatever free climbing means anymore, I have no idea. The expression is getting obsolete, since there are relatively few aid climbs, and freeing aid routes isn't really the focus anymore. (this climb being an exception) A lot of non-climbers think it refers to soloing.
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
hey there say, werner...
i thought this was very interesting:
Way back in the late 70's Kauk told me this type of style will come into play in the future to free climb walls like this.
He visualized it back then.
A big wall like this will become a giant boulder problem.
One problem stacked upon another and continues until the summit is reached ......
thanks for sharing... well, of course, i am not a climber, but,
from someone that has had kids, that climb all over everything,
it sure makes sense to me:
one giant 'boulder' problem and onward, through each
'phrase' of it...
helps me, see what is going on there, in my view from here... :)
verses all the gear that i don't always understand well...
thanks for sharing...
thanks to all the shares, here, as well, keeping us up to date...
|
|
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
|
|
^ the rating system for bouldering may gradually replace the YDS system, they are mostly redundant and the number of boulderers is increasing rapidly. The gym I go to (Earthtreks Golden CO) has bouldering ratings for the bouldering area, and 5.? ratings for the roped area. The two variables are the difficulty of individual moves (V rating) and how many of them make up the pitch. A long sustained 5.11 may not have a single move on it harder than 5.10. Those two factors are mixed in the YDS rating. Maybe just use the V grade and see how long the route is for yourself. You could also do something like, 11 V 5 for a 5.11 with V5 as the hardest move. Still need to flag danger, though, with R and X ratings.
|
|
aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
Has Dean Caldwell (Not related to Tommy I assume) the guy that did Wall of the Early Morning Light with Harding ever post on this site? I would be interested to hear his take on the recent ascent.
|
|
nah000
climber
no/w/here
|
|
Flip Flop, et al: go back and reread what i wrote. there's nothing naysaying about it.
the only reason it sounds like naysaying is because it is in response to a backdrop of singularly focused overhype.
because i'm as hyped for these guys as anyone, i have no issue with the hype in and of itself if it is kept in perspective and it is being truthful...
to be clear: c+j are hardasses. they are badasses. they are committed to a project like few in history have been. and they are progressing the adventure we all love in a way that few have or will... if i was in california i'd probably head out there to check it out myself.
what they are doing is super sweet and i have no issue with their chosen style.
my only issue is with some of the hype.
for ex: hardest rock climb?
while i expect that tripe from the outside media, i expect better of climbers.
there are too many facets of the game for climbers to be so simplistic...
at least not without a six month, 1000 post thread arguing about it. hahaha.
[as an aside, i am curious whether they are self-contained or not. i thought i'd read that they were being supplied from the ground, but in relooking around i can't find anything definitive one way or the other. so if what i said is untrue, no problem, i'll take that back and take my lashes...]
|
|
aguacaliente
climber
|
|
They are being resupplied from the ground because the juicer that was the Editor's Choice from the Gear Lab review would not run on solar power. I hope this clears things up.
|
|
nah000
climber
no/w/here
|
|
^^^^
hahahahaha... i lolled
but what brand?????
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
Tape is aid, therefore they are aiding it.
|
|
labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
|
|
Not to mention the chalk usage and tic marks....
;-)
Finish that bugger! Go!
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
Seriously great work, Gentlemen.
I hope Kevin can get the tip-splitter done and what can you say about Tommy but MONSTER!
With all the fun with the media, I am totally stoked about this amazing project!
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2015 - 10:21pm PT
|
^
Hear! Hear!
|
|
John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
|
|
Any updates from yesterday?
|
|
Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
Last Night Tommy freed pitch 17. (Pretty sure)
Nahoo, did you criticize Harding for having help?
Are all rehearsed 5.14 a compromise of style?
I haven't heard a single valid criticism of this climb or style.
Is there a rock climb anywhere that compares in difficulty?
FYI, I hear that it's a total sandbag at 5.14+.
You've got a lot of windbags coming in at the last minutes of a 6 year epic adventure complaining that there isn't enough adventure. It's just nonsense.
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
Well hardest rock climb in the world inherently means of that type of climb to me.
The media circus is in large part due to the same reason the WOEML FA had a media circus, it has had time to build up interest. Most climbs are completed before the general public hears anything about them. An extended climb like this (and one that has been tried in previous years) gives time for general public and media interest to ferment.
I don't know how anyone can complain about style. There's going to be lots of killer shots of them climbing without helmets OR shirts. Talk about styling!
Oh yeah, is that shot of Tommy's hands compressed horizontally or does he have Hobbit hands? If there are really that thick no wonder he's so strong. Still amazes me the missing index finger doesn't hold him back.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
windbag
a pompous person who talks too much, a braggart
Why do have a windbag like him representing us?
20 WORDS RELATED TO WINDBAG
blowhard gasbag know-it-all braggart d#@&%ebag annoying as#@&%e bigmouth bloviate d#@&%e bag fart hot air loudmouth bill o'reilly chatty cathy d#@&%e gas bag jerk obnoxious party bus
The boys are gett'n it done.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Final Log of progress:
1. (12/27) p1-5. 5.12b, 5.13a, 5.13c, 5.12b, 5.12d wet Tom Evans shots of day 1
2. (12/28) p6-9. 5.13c, 5.14a, 5.13d, 5.13c Tom Evans shots of day 2
3. (12/29) p10. 5.14 wet / mega to start of Molar Traverse Tom Evans shots of day 3
4. (12/30) rest day
5. (12/31) p11-12. 5.13c (extended version of topo p11, probably), 5.14b arch on Molar Traverse Tom Evans shots of day 5
(Note: p12 "The Molar Traverse" on the blue topo below was split into 2 pitches, so numbering of the remaining pitches is changed)
6. (1/1) p13-14. 5.13c Molar to Dike, 5.14d Dike Traverse I Tom Evans photos day 6
7. (1/2) rest day
8. (1/3) p15. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Tommy redpointed, Kevin came close Tom Evans photos day 8
9. (1/4) p15. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Kevin tried at 6pm but fell on the crux move at the end when the tape came off his fingers.
p16. 5.14+ Dyno or 5.14a Loop - Tommy led the Loop version free, with Kevin belaying. Tom Evans photos day 9
10. (1/5) rest day
11. (1/6) p17. 5.14a hard liebacking above Dyno - Tommy redpointed.
p15. Kevin made 4 redpoint attempts. Still falling at the last crux. Tom Evans photos day 11
(Note: p15 "DYNO!" on topo below was split by Tommy into 2 pitches, so pitch numbers below are 2 higher than blue topo numbers)
12. (1/7) p18. 5.13, 5.13c - Tommy redpointed. Tom Evans photos day 12
13. (1/8) p19-p20. 5.13c, 5.13c/d to Wino Tower - Tommy redpointed. Climbing in the daylight now. Kevin rested. Tom Evans photos day 13
14. (1/9) p15-p16. 5.14d Dike Traverse II - Kevin redpointed, 5.14+ Dyno - Kevin redpointed to above the no hands stance below p17. Tom Evans photos day 14
15. (1/10) p16-p18. 5.14+ Dyno - Kevin redpointed (again), 5.14a lieback - Kevin redpointed (not sure if linked with p16 or done from top of 16), 5.13c face - Kevin followed (as Tommy had led it on a previous day) Tom Evans photos day 15
16. (1/11) rest day
17. (1/12) p19-p20. 5.13c face - Kevin followed(?), 5.13c face - Kevin followed(?), 5.13c/d face - Kevin followed(?) Tom Evans photos day 17
18. (1/13) p21-27 5.12 and 5.11 Tom Evans photos day 18
19. (1/14) p28-31 5.12 and one 5.13a Tom Evans photos day 19
If you like this style topo, see my updated version with pitch numbers: http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/freedawn.gif
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
Given the history of the "Dawn Wall," and reading the comments about style, this is a very traditional ascent.
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 07:26am PT
|
Thanks for the summary Clint.
Looks like 11 pitches to go on Erik's new topo.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!