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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Anyone out there know anything about the routes sport and trad established on these western central NV limestone crags. Quite an extensive amount of limestone, most of good to high quality and ranging up to 500'. Saw at least three bolted lines on steep walls with tat at least ten years old.
[photoid=402089]
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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[photoid=402092]
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Mar 10, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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Very cool shots of the WG T?S. Was out there a couple of times in the 90's with my kids. Although we weren't climbing I immediately saw the potential. Would love to hear or see pics about climbing in the area. BTW the night shot of the main cliff is beautiful. Thanks
lars
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:22pm PT
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Don't spill the beans on new areas. Leave them for others to discover just as you did. Suspend your ego's need for recognition. Let your routes go like the wind.
The problem with this is that some of us really like history. Also, one of my favorite things about climbing is being somewhere that nobody else has. The whole "get the FA experience twice" goes totally out the window for me when I find out a line has been climbed or find signs of passage en-route.
The people who pass through without a peep just make me to spend a lot of time finding out what has been climbed so I can search out what has been not. If they shared with the community it would be nice. The FA experience is more than just the physical act of climbing without info, for me at least. It's also not about credit. Any time I do a new route I put my name last and would be totally find just saying "anonymous."
I guess if there's no fixed gear and nobody ever crawls out of their cave years alter to say they climbed something then it's all good. However, the fact that people do that casts a shadow of doubt over all the trad routes in an area, which is a bummer.
I don't know, just a bunch of opinions...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:23pm PT
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Dingus do you want to see new areas and routes and learn a little climbing history or do you just want to argue? Why don't you relax and enjoy the thread, inject a little less ego generated argumentation, and maybe contribute a little obscurity discoveries of your own. After all amigo this isn't one of those contentious political threads.
Now does anyone have any information on those limestone crags I posted. They are located 4.5 miles south of Imlay, off hwy. 80, in Prince Royal Canyon. You can drive virtually to their base. Only a 5-10 minute approach to the closest formations. Pretty good limestone. I bouldered around the base and found pretty much everything solid as rock. I saw three bolted lines, but the bolts were hard to see and im sure their are plenty of other established lines.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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Another cool looking crag Rick. This thread is giving me a new respect for Nevada.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
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Just a drop in the bucket so far Limping Crab. There is an incredible amount of good rock out there in the void, plenty of them unclimbed. Glad you are enjoying Jonny's thread thus far. If you have the time and inclination get a hold of us and we'll gladly climb a new route or two with you, or at least point you in the right direction.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 11, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
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Dingus
I don't enjoy your posts about ego,
especially on a pure climbing thread.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 03:41pm PT
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 11, 2015 - 04:30pm PT
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Fighting thread drift with another photo of where the wild rocks are.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 11, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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As a warning against topic drift-MORE--SMALL ROCK HELL WILL FOLLOW BICKERING AND THREAD DRIFT.
Along with the other Maven's here, I respond best to sincere request for beta.
If you see something that you want to get on just ask.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 11, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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Laine I see another great option for a future path. Avoid the cracks entirely on the face to the right of you in the picture. Probably take a few pins and bolts, but could be totally done on the lead. Thanks again for your participation last weekend. Couldn't have had such a good day without you. You are a safe, methodical, ever steadily upward climber and a great companion for the wilds.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 11, 2015 - 05:23pm PT
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Yea I agree Rick. The sporty trad lines out there are endless. It's kind of a granite Red Rock where many positive face holds present great opportunities for upward progress on steep terrain. Look forward to getting out with you guys again real soon.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 11, 2015 - 09:23pm PT
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"he whole "get the FA experience twice" goes totally out the window for me when I find out a line has been climbed or find signs of passage en-route."
No offense my friend but isn't that your ego talking? Presumably every climb you do is an FA for you, the first time you do it, regardless of the passage of others.
Maybe, I think of ego as something you do to impress others. The feeling of being somewhere nobody else has been is for myself. If that's still ego then so be it. You should see some of the stupid places I hike or caves I crawl through for that feeling :)
Now so I'm not guilty of only thread drift, here's a picture of a couple rocks in the background along one of the forks the of the Kings River that I don't think have been thoroughly checked out. Sorry it's not Nevada but there are still obscure places in the Sierra. I think.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 11, 2015 - 10:15pm PT
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^ Well that place doesn't suck
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Mar 12, 2015 - 01:24am PT
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Waterhouse peak. A face I've always seen on the way back from Kirkwood. OK, i didn't always see it. in fact I never saw it until I became a climber.
Ashley gettin' after it
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Mar 12, 2015 - 06:50am PT
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DMT
Never said we didn't want people to know about and/or climb here.
In fact, we try to get people to join us. Only Jon Taylor & Laine Christman
have stepped up to the plate. You are completely wrong about ego,
we want to share information about a great area that has a lot of
pontential. Ego is not driven by the desire to climb 5.3 d! Let the
younger crowd get the FA's of harder routes beyond the ability of
old farts. Come join us soon, would like to meet you in person
and climb with you!
Bob Pinckney
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 12, 2015 - 08:04pm PT
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Well another day and another virgin crag in the NV wilds climbed on. This formation has a west facing and south facing aspect both 450+' tall. The rock is very high quality and if the crag we visited last weekend could yield thirty lines this one could yield at least sixty.
Bob starting up the 5.9 first pitch of Dreamliner.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 12, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
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Me continuing up the splitter of Dreamliner pitch one.
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