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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 26, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
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Awesome thread thanks!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
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Looks like Lidija Painkiher is the correct spelling of that little powerhouse...
Maybe Grossman is working on a story?
(couldn't edit my previous post)
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Sep 26, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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another notable strong climber not mentioned much from back then was pat timson. always traveled with his own pull-up bar and installed it in the camp 4 gym when in residence.
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Sep 27, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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Dave Orza, Natasha Druttin, some guy named Cliff dragged me up a bunch of hard tens.
I loved those folks and camp four. I have a giant chest full of slide shows from Yosem, and the High Sierra.
We thought those days would never end.
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OR
Trad climber
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Sep 27, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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Lots of little stories of colourful personalities.
Take Dave Altman for instance. He lived in Berkeley, and would sojourn to Yosemite a few times every year with some hardcore project climbs in mind, which he would steadfastly and progressively achieve. We called him, "the world's strongest man", he was one of the few who could do a bonafide set of one arm pull-ups. He often carried a well worn ancient book about amazing human feats--I was most impressed with the picture of the two brothers, one doing a one-arm handstand, with the other hand holding a rope taught to a tree. The other brother was doing a handstand on the suspended rope (this was at a time we were refining and advancing the webbing tightrope techniques pioneered by Jeff and Adam).
But Dave's favourite was a man holding a 10 pound bowling ball by a pin. He considered it one of the more amazing feats in the book, and he had built himself a series of training tools to replicate the feat, and would frequently update us on his progress over the years. Never knew if he eventually mastered that particular feat, but many others in the book he had done.
Yup, I remember him well. Guy was strong. He worked for Maysho at Cityrock for a while. He was a great source for Valley stories and route beta. Cool dude and a brainiac.
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Avery
climber
NZ
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Sep 27, 2014 - 07:54pm PT
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80's Women: Lydia Bradey on Zenith. 1982.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 27, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
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Dave Orza Bump!
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OTC
Social climber
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Sep 29, 2014 - 08:12pm PT
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travelling...john rutt
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Sep 29, 2014 - 09:35pm PT
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I was born down in Visalia in the 80's. Did you guys hear about that when you were up in the valley? It was a pretty big deal.
You mean you're THAT limpingcrab?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 30, 2014 - 08:21am PT
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bump
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
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Where's BURT BRONSON! How could those pretty-boy prancers make a movie about the Valley hardmen and not include BRUCE BRONSON!
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Canoga Park, CA
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Sep 30, 2014 - 04:54pm PT
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1987
Peter Croft solos Astroman
Peter Croft FA Excellent Adventure 5.13c
Peter Croft climbs Cosmic Debris
Peter Croft solos Fish Crack
Despite the "Valley Syndrome" narrative popular in the late 80s, there were a lot of very talented climbers there in this era. Peter's achievements really stood out though... it seemed like everyone in the Valley became mere mortals when Peter arrived. I remember when he soloed Fish Crack, he had pretty much just arrived for the summer and I think I remember hearing he had only done it once before, and it was 5 years prior! I had just led it for the first time and I was completely floored by this story.
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Frank Lucido
Boulder climber
Tahoe
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Oct 13, 2014 - 01:19pm PT
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I notice that each time there is a list like this my modest contributions seem to get paired down a little. Old guidebook had it right, I also helped Kenny, et. al., on "The Meteor" and seconded Joe Hedge on "Maps and Legends," an obscure line named after an album of outtakes and b-sides. No big deal, but it makes me wonder how many others efforts were left off the list(s), especially when the information has already been published. If the goal is to set the record straight, it's a good idea to do some old fashion cross referencing of available sources, even printed ones. Still it's good to see all those names, they bring back a lot of fond memories of a dynamic decade that saw the adoption of sticky rubber, popularization of videos, and the then controversial practice of sport climbing/rap bolting, among many other developments. Nothing would ever be the same in the climbing world after the 1980's.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 13, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
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Thanks, Frank.
We will add you to the FFA of Maps and Legends with Joe Hedge and Drew Davol, 1988.
I don't see "The Meteor" in the route list, but I see:
Meteorite 5.12b TR, FA by Ken Ariza, et al, late 1980s, so we will add you to that, unless that doesn't sound like the same climb.
(Between Cosmic Charley and Delectable Pinnacle Right Side).
We also have you down for:
Bad Company 5.11a or 5.11d FA: Ken Ariza, Cade Lloyd, Frank Lucido, 1988
Guillotine 5.11d FA: Ken Ariza, Frank Lucido, Peter Kern, 1988
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 13, 2014 - 02:40pm PT
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Uh oh. Let the butthurts begin.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Oct 13, 2014 - 08:34pm PT
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Don't think Frankie's but hurt Bob, just think there were a lot of folk who got used to telling it like it ain't.
He was there, he climbed 'em, he deserves a nod.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
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Hi Ed and Clint
Regarding the list of people on page 1 of this thread, I just ran into Chris Peisker at Araplles, where I am at the moment, and he does not recall doing anything new in Yosemite. He mentioned he did a lot of climbing with Carol Bowman. But I saw he was on your lists of FA folks-- do you know what climbs for which he is recorded ?
Cheers
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 20, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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Landshark 5.12a Jonny Woodward, Chris Peisker, 5/1985
West end of Wawona Tunnel
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2015 - 03:41am PT
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Thanks Ed! You're a true historian. (But we still need to work on further glorifying the 80's era with more of the good stories for a change!). ;)
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Dec 28, 2015 - 09:31am PT
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Oh Chris, that hurts. Landshark wasn't the highligh of all your Valley trips then?
I drove through the Valley last fall, had to stop for a leak and saw that someone had built a convenient bathroom at the west end of the tunnel for all the climbers going to do A Dog's Roof. How kind. Oh, not a bathroom after all. 30 years on, Landshark, once staring at you on the road begging to be climbed, was now completely buried by a vibrant tree. Some routes are destined for obscurity.
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