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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Feb 12, 2014 - 01:22am PT
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Moratorium still has a vibe to it.
I remember someone crowing about how they were gonna
link it up w/ east Buttress iad.
Thank god it rained, or didn't rain etc etc that day,
and nothing was spoken anymore.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Feb 12, 2014 - 02:33am PT
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Well…….maybe I was just having a bad day but Orangutang Arch (11b?) kicked my ass when I was at my fittest. Just pathetic.
Couldn't get off the ground on Human Sacrifice.
Huge and Choice 11c-d Josh
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weezy
climber
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Feb 12, 2014 - 03:25am PT
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Liquid Sky, North Six Shooter
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fosburg
climber
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Feb 12, 2014 - 10:10am PT
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Does Liquid Sky get done much? Jaybro? I loved reading Jeff Achey's description of that route, how the Harding Slot is way roomy in comparison.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 12, 2014 - 11:37am PT
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BJJ, you and I both....wish I could move back to Reno...
Also, headstone is HARD lol. Only pitch of the imaginary voyage I have done, but got spanked on it.
You live over here near Red Rock somewhere, don't you? I thought I remember a thread from a while back where that came up.
We should try and get out there together sometime. I'm on layoff right now, my left elbow started acting up from over doing it too soon after my return to climbing after a 10 year hiatus. I've been sidelined the last 3 weeks. Hoping to have it sorted before another month passes.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 12, 2014 - 11:50am PT
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The Pat Adams dihedral in JT felt like 5.11++++
I think it's rated 11b. Of course placing gear is probably the crux.
Crux of Hercules is carrying enough Epi pens or a beekeeper helmet and smoker.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 12, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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^^^ I hear ya.
Last year, I had this problem with my right elbow. Took 6 weeks off and hit the rehab super hard and fixed it right up. But, I neglected to do the same exercises on my left side because it was fine at the time. I guess that was a mistake.
Mine is on the inside. It's getting better. I only really feel it when loading the arm in a palm up position. Some days, it doesn't hurt at all.
I've been going to town with the armaid device, plus tons of the resistance exercises that PT's recommend.
Kind of a drag as I was starting to flirt with climbing 5.12 again a few months back. Then the pain started creeping in, and I didn't slow down quick enough. Blargh.
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bigbird
climber
WA
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Feb 13, 2014 - 01:01am PT
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Anything on Troll wall.....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 10, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
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Generator Crack Yosemite
Twilight Zone Yosemite
Cream Yosemite
Throbbing Gristle JTree
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WBraun
climber
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May 10, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
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Realm of the Lizard King lower Lost Brother.
This one will make you cry like a little girl ......
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Sanskara
climber
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May 10, 2014 - 10:47pm PT
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Awesome thread,...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Yes awesome....
some 5.10???
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Flower of a High Rank at Suicide.
I call that one my gym climber test piece. Dudes that climb 5.12 in the gym can't even make it up this 5.9.
I think we may be delving into the realm of sandbags...
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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I've taken a couple of young guys who were pretty solid on 5.12 sport out to Moonstone near here onto the 5.9/10a friction routes and after the first pitch of the day, they both refused to do any leading. It really freaked them out.
Whole different thing...head game, yes, but that's big part of it all, not just cranking.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Hey, it's gravity, the same in the gym as in the wild. Right?!! Right?!! Haha.
Good points about getting strong in the gym, but then finding that the variables and uncertainties of trad climbing expose one's inexperience.
I always viewed trad as much mental as physical. Those old guys, before sticky rubber and cams? Whoa, those guys were mighty impressive.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2017 - 09:03am PT
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Gorilla Warfare...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 10, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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Linking 'GREEN DRAGON'WITH 'MR NATURAL'
Then, from the Near Trapps in the Gunks;
a test piece and a heady lead, 'Lost World Direct' ( just left of center, right of the trees )
The line climbs thru the tiers on the left till the original, snivels,20 feet left to end at the tree - it is very good 'G' rated way to go - The Direct, I went straight up at the spot where the line of lichen Is cleaned back to a straight line. . . .far-more 'R' than going left, if you blow the crux double hand slap & mantle, the ride sends you almost glancing off the slab below.
"Raise high, your feet! if you blow off the meat!"
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Mike Honcho
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 10, 2017 - 01:13pm PT
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I can't scroll the whole thread, but Magnolia Thunder Pussy 5.9+ at Granite Mountain, AZ??? That is the most 5.12 5.9 in the US.... IMO
~Caylor
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
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Tar and Feathers.
Race with the Devil.
(Suicide Rock)
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Feb 10, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
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anyone rep the second part of the book of deception?
5.11++
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