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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 25, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
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I am gonna go out to Eldo & place 10 or 11 bolts on Perlilous Journey. Weak strawman. Super weak.
Also - Perilous Journey gets climbed all the time - on TR - and it's not in Eldo.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 25, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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Hey Levy, do me a favor & put permanent draws on you asked for it & perilous journey too so I only need to carry a rope, Grigri & one "dog" draw up there. I mean do it right y'know. Cheers.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jul 25, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
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^^^....Xactly Levi.....
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
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Jul 25, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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I am gonna go out to Eldo & place 10 or 11 bolts on Perlilous Journey. Since it rarely gets climbed it's Ok for me to retro bolt it as I see fit, right?
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/perilous-journey/105750580
So what if Dave Breashears gives you permission to do this? Does that then make it OK?
What if Breashears wants to retro-bolt it himself? Is that OK?
Hmmmm……
I would consider retro-bolting to be very route specific, and in the case of the route in question it is beginning to sound like it is nothing more than an unfinished project; at the very most a route that nobody here can claim to have climbed or point to someone who did climb it.
For now, concerning this route, I agree with Steve S and FZ:
"Ultimately who gives a Fuk anyway!"
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 25, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
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It's unfortunate so many tiny and emotional minds inject themselves into this. It's a good topic - totally ruined every time it comes up.
CW and MS are extremely experienced, both with long histories of some of the boldest trad ascents done in NA. They're local, well known and liked and are very familiar with the history of the area. They've both contributed a ton to the community. Their past actions have been well accepted, they both have well known histories of working with past ascentionists and land managers.
Maybe think about who you are ripping into before you spout about how cool you think you and your ethics are and the small pile of dumb-shlt-easy climbs you've done.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 25, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
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Tom Byrne lives in Telluride . . . still climbs.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 25, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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Why do people have to keep calling others "old" or "armchair" or "tiny" as though they themselves are young, active and large?
F88k you HUGE SPASTIC A.D.D. PUPPY.
Most of us here have earned our stripes and our right to an opinion same as you. After all, you're here bitching on the thread too, you're just bitching about something else. So take YOU'RE version of holier than thou and ram it up the poopshoot (as FZ sez) because you're not really more informed than anyone else.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Jul 25, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
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Bob, the majority of the Sport Park is all retro bolted as well as the crag slab west of Castle Rock. That is at least 70 routes you have claimed as someone elses FA's in your guidebook that were first written down in big book at Neptunes.
Why did you ignore the open book of FA's at Neptunes when you wrote your "guide"?
Your reputation as a blowhard never ceases to amaze.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 25, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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Tad, reading comprehension, try it sometime. You might start with the part where I wrote that I've chopped retrobolted routes in the past.
Tom Byrne lives in Telluride . . . still climbs.
Cool. Should be easy enought to get the facts then. Anybody got a call into him yet?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 25, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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because you're not really more informed than anyone else. I know where Perilous Journey is, bro, and I can spell it too.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Jul 25, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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I find myself intrigued by the way people post comments that are directly aimed at one person or another that I doubt very much would be said face to face.
I call it "keyboard muscles".
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 25, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
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Reading comprehension is so important. I never said a word about Perilous Journey, someone else did.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 25, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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Reading comprehension is so important. Feel free to replace "anyone else" in your statement with "I am".
Is this the best you man-children can put out? I'm getting bored. CW is probably laughing his ass off. Way to stick it to him.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
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Specific examples and personal attacks aside, I think this all comes down to whether climbing should have have any ethical standards. Are there any principles and traditions that worth of being respected and preserved, or should it be a total free for all where everyone just does whatever their heart (or ego) desires?
The FA party doesn't "own" the route, but generally their accomplishment is worthy of some respect. Intentionally altering a route should include the FA's perspective, otherwise you are saying is that what you want is more important than their accomplishment. Also, the original experience is now gone. Regardless of whether you "skip" the new bolts, you can still see them.
Bold climbing at any grade has great rewards and should be preserved. Altering a climb to make it safer is seldom an adequate justification for altering someone else's accomplishments or vision. There are so many documented routes it is easy to find something else you can handle until your testicular or ovarian mass it up to the challenge.
If all civility fails, there is still the time honored tradition of the campground or parking lot beat-down for the FA party to express their displeasure with your decision making paradigm.
Cheers and namaste
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 25, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
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Feel free to replace "anyone else" in your statement with "I am".
WTF? Please show me where my statement says "anyone else". And what would I replace with "I am"?
Way to go man child, you sure showed me what fer....HA!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 25, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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Stahlbro nails it.... well said.
The topic of ethics, always gets the juces flowing.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 25, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
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Way to go!
Bold climbing at any grade has great rewards and should be preserved. Altering a climb to make it safer is seldom an adequate justification for altering someone else's accomplishments or vision. There are so many documented routes it is easy to find something else you can handle until your testicular or ovarian mass it up to the challenge.
The dude placed more bolts on that route than the entire first ascent of the Salathe Wall.
Yeah, he's my new hero. All hail the new bolt King!
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Jul 25, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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If all civility fails, there is still the time honored tradition of the campground or parking lot beat-down for the FA party to express their displeasure with your decision making paradigm.
Now we're getting somewhere!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 25, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Keyboard muscles would make a great route name, mind if I use that??
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Jul 25, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Parking lot beatdown guy closes with 'namaste'. Classic.
So which of you internet tough guys has actually done something... like go chop the sport weenie's bolts already!
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