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miwuksurfer
Social climber
Mi-Wuk
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Feb 11, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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This thread should be a chapter in CMac's "How Climb Big Walls" book.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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May 11, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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One of the best thread titles on the whole site.
It deserves a bump now and then.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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May 11, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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FUNNY that mtnyoung bumped this...SINCE HE HUNG HIS GEAR AT THE CRUX TODAY WHEN I WAS FOLLOWING HIM HAHAHAHA
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 11, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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You got it backwards.
Don't screw the leader!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 11, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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Screwing the second:
Leader= 6'-4"
Second= 5'-9"
Done!
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Kirkwood, ca
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May 11, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
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No time for screwing the second when your running the PDL on a big wall bra. I guess if your climbing double cross u can screw the second, but when your doing a wall in a push, you gotta send.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 12, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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I just chased this Toothpick so I might tell of the time Mathis sh#t in a bucket hold for Vain Diver on some Tuolumne climb. VD was leading another party below Jeff, and plainly there was some animosity, disdain, or just the chance to pull a f*#king good one, so the deed was done.
I like the story. One huge thumb up your crack, Chris. Where in hell are my Jumars, dick-washer?
Better not be in some van down by the Diver River!
edit: The gear was loaned to CVD in 1979. Patience is virtuous, theft is not.
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justin01
Trad climber
sacramento
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May 12, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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I'm 6'4, and I cant tell you how often my 5'5 wife has yelled at me for placing gear out of her reach. " I was gripped baby I swear!"
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MisterE
Social climber
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Sep 29, 2012 - 09:52am PT
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Classic climbing thread bump.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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SUPERTOPO RULES and Tonto goes to town...
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Bad Climber
climber
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My favorite trad gag:
I was on Eagle Buttress, Right Side, Lover's Leap, a route rarely done now because of raptor closure--bummer. Back then, the birds were on their own and doing fine....
Back to the gag: I rounded a corner up high and climbed out of sight of my belayer. We'd never done the route, so my 2nd had no idea what lay beyond. The climbing was dead easy--huge dikes, a simple run. But HE didn't know that. I started yammering about "Desperate!" "Sketchy!" "Dude, watch me!" All the while I was placing virtually every piece of gear I could wedge in--half-assed or otherwise, maybe ten pieces? I don't recall the exact number. I top out and bring him up. He rounds the dreaded corner and--wham! "You a-hole!!!!" Laughing all the way. A great day on the hill.
BAd
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Jul 14, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
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Major bump!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Jul 15, 2013 - 12:22am PT
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In GDavis' video, with the belay technique shown, if the leader fell they could both be screwed.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jul 15, 2013 - 12:22am PT
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That is classic, briham!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jul 15, 2013 - 06:59am PT
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Dirtineye said:
"I am MUCH happier failing on lead than on second LOL! BUT, to be fair, the leader MUST screw the second at every opportunity. He must give bad beta, he must place gear in the hand holds that are critical, sometimes even repreating the phrase," I'm afraid I Fvucked you on that move, sorry", and he must do what he can to allow the second to have as much excitement as the lead offered. The only thing that is off limits is dropping the poor SOB. THAT is just dirty pool, ALTHOUGH, if the second hangs around complaining that a piece is too hard to get out, a little penalty dip IS allowed."
Comment:
A good description of why the New generation always comes out sharper than the generation before. I have seen some old masters in serious trouble when the slave becomes dominant. That's usually more sad than fun.
I remember learning to lead. I was often sent up with too few nuts and friends and even at times some of them the wrong size. Always on easy 4a-5c routes. There's a lot of good learning in that, mostly mental, and it happens when you decide to continue, the run-out way, instead of returning to the ground. Not that I learned too well. If I'm psyched I still bring more gear than any purist would allow.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jul 15, 2013 - 07:22am PT
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Srewing the 2nd ai't cool. it's simply incompetent.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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May 12, 2014 - 11:24pm PT
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I can't believe its a girdle.
Also the old "who can get the worst song stuck in the other climbers head." All it takes is whistling a few notes of 'Dancing Queen'.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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May 12, 2014 - 11:56pm PT
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I thought this was actually about screwing the second. Being heterosexual and most my partners being of the same gender, that didn't always work out.
So I'd settle for the second best thing, which is to make sure I got a bomber piece in right after the crux of a traverse. ( as far towards the end of the traverse as possible.)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 13, 2014 - 06:16am PT
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There is a clasic 10a @ cathedral NH called The Book Of Solemitly. It has a devious crux followed by an unprotected traverse to a 5.5 finish. Competent leaders who climb with a single rope protect the crux and then solo the 5.5 after the traverse. Competent leaders who use doubble ropes have it easy. Just don't clip one rope after the traverse and you can place gear on the other rope. Years ago a newlywed couple was on their honymoon. The husband led the Book on a single rope, placed gear after the traverse, screwed his 2nd and she fell shattering her knee.
The climbing rope is a team. The leaders responsibility is for the safty of the team. Anyone who thinks screwing the 2nd is cool is an ahole. Anyone who consistanty screws the 2nd is an incompetent a hole.
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