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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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Well, I'm on my ledge, under my fly, in my sleeping bag, listening to the Stones and just dinished a can of pineapple chunks. Its 'not raining yet but there are clouds in the Valley and it's gotten cold. It sorta smells like 8 day old socks in here! I'm gonna take a nap soon…
The bolts I'm using I got from Greg at the ASCA. The look to be 2.5 inches long.
You wouldn't believe the mountain of tar I've cut off this route! Holy shit! It's a ton! I'll take a photo of it all when I top out. I've cleaned out maybe 15-18 deadheads also.
I have my radio on and am trying to call Pete.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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Enjoy the nap and then keep sending when the sun come back!!!!
^I second that
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micronut
Trad climber
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Mark,
Way to stay after it man. Thanks so much for your inspiration gearing Adam and I up for our big climb this weekend. I tried to text you that I had dropped my jugs from the alcove above the Kor Roof. Total nightmare. Such a bummer. We had to bail. All was going soooo well too. We were having a killer time up there. Thanks to all your tireless beta. Our anchors would make you proud. We'll fill you in when you get down. The SFWC blend was pure superhero energy juice. I'm back at work today, wishing I was up there in the heat, the wind and the blue sky. Have fun for the rest of your trip! Way to slay it!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Get buttoned up, the Merced area just got plastered with about a qquarter inch of heavy rain in ten minutes. I got soaked on the way back from the store on my bike. Stay dry, I hope it misses you.
Survival in another "lame" attempt? :)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sounds like yer buttoned up for bear Mark, way to go. You certainly are providing the psych for tons of us.
I now find myself thinking "Well, if Hudon can solo the thing, for what, the umpteenth time in the last couple years, I should be able to get up it again with a partner, right?"
Micro, DAMN! You bailed because of what, the jugs? Ever heard of prussics? Hudon's not bailing because of his grigri!! HA!
Well, I got to do the last half of the Salathe with one jug and one prussic, that's as close as I've come. BITD it was standard technology!
Better luck next time.
Stay Dry Mark!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
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It just started raining in earnest. I can't get my ledge low enoght to get the fly tight so I have one little leak that I'm dealing with by wedging my pee bottle against the fly spreader bar with a dry sack over it and my camp sponge underneath! It's getting windy now and my empty water bottles are swinging all over the place!
So far, this is rather fun (given that I know it's going to last only the rest of the day and evening).
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Yeah and with a good streaming porn connection...can't be all that bad... ;)
DOH!
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WBraun
climber
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It was raining buckets a while ago.
Right now it's only pouring .....
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Snowing hard at Tahoe right now above 6,000'
Looks like maybe only a couple of hours left of precip in the valley. Intense but fast moving.
Should taper off by 7:00pm or so by the looks of the radar.
Hope everyone stayed dry and yosar has nothing to do.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Storm just ended at Tahoe.
Looks like it should be tapering in the valley now.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Marks batteries on his phone are low - he asked if I could forward his texts.
6:16pm 6/4
I think the other spot might have been better, you know, the one NOT under a water runoff!
6:52pm 6/4
I don't have enough power to spare to send you a photo. It seems like its backed off a bit right now. Hey, don't ever thing you should go up on a wall without a camp sponge!
I'm not going to get on the Internet anymore so maybe you can copy and paste this.
I'll pass along what I get!
Max
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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yeah streaming porn eats those batteries up quick. oh well, fun while it lasted ;)
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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+1 on the sponge. The last time I did El Cap My partners were like wtf is up with the sponge? Glad we didn"t need it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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looked viscious cloudy all day in the Bay Area.
good to see the posts.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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10 days soloing El Cap and an internet connection...gunna need more then one sponge....
just sayin ;)
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Which anchors are you at Mark?
Stay dry and have a restful night.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Bring a sponge or be a sponge.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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More texts from the front:
7:17pm
"Even with the runoff, If I have more space between the portal edge and rock, I could hAve hung the ledge lower and had gotten the fly tighter, the water would have run off it and not pooled in the various odd spots. "
"I have to put on my SUNGLASSES to read what I'm typing! Remember that I lost that lens!
It's brighter to the West right now, might that mean anything?"
8:01pm
"I just poked my head outside and it starting to clear up to the west although it's still raining here now. "
9:02pm
"i am below the A3 pitch below the two 5.9 pitches.
I hope to do the A3 and both 5.9's tomorrow, leaving me with a single 170 pitch on my final day. The 5.9 pitches have to be dry though…
I see stars out although it's still raining a little. "
That's it for now.
Max
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youri
climber
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Gripping! Tom: can you transcript Mark's morse code when the cell phone dies ? :))
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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You got it HUD! Coupla pitches . . . this is a nice little tester storm.
Micronuts . . . text yo Momma 'bout yo dropped jugs . . . WTF?
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