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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:06am PT
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No idea.... but it was almost night.... what are any of them? Train is one.... what are the others?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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Train, "Mystery Boulder", Painted Boulder Direct (discussed upthread), Driving South.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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That mystery boulder is like 44inches off the road on the right hand side as you are walking down the mountain.... as I recall.... I mean it was 30 years ago or more.... and dark!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 12, 2012 - 02:16am PT
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I'm completely and totally f*#king stumped. Gotta be the angle and the lighting, plus the smoke and mirrors.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 12, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Thanks bob, i thot you were there. In fact I recall telling you "watch and learn" in my inimitable, magnanimous way. Im glad you took that to heart. There is much you can learn from Rokron, god-o-bob. We will make a face climber outta you yet.
Yah and chicks dig fat guys...DUH
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 12, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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Not necessarily painted direct. The regular 10d problem exits up the dihedral too. Im stumped on the flake as well, boob.
Routes on the N side of painted as I know them are: Paint streak direct (way hard), regular route, (starting on the right, a couple moves up, then handrail left on thin edges to the base of the little dihedral and straight up)10d, and the arete thing that I posted (V3ish).
As far as a route straight up between the paint streak and the start of the regular route, Ive never heard of it. Theres a line of fantasy holds that may have started a suburban legend, but a problem? I need to see proof, because Ive tried that and there aint enough holds.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 12, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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Ok, I'm pretty stumped too on the mystery photo, but how about this "shot in the dark" guess...Mike's doing the foot-hand match on the west face of Painted Boulder. The horizontal seam is to the left, yet at weird angle because the shot is steeper than it should be, and this would also support the, "44 inches off the road, right side of the road on the way down" recollection, somewhat.
If I was shooting up at the guy in the other photo, that horizontal seam would angle up to the left corner of the photo such as it is in Mikes photo. What do you think?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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Good call, Gary. The angle is so distorted its hard to tell, but the move, height and rock features all seem to support your idea. Plus theres already one nighttime pic of MP on the painted...Im throwing in with you.
Those are old pics indeed. Look how fresh the paint streak is.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:46am PT
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I know Ron, awesome about the paint streak. Yeah I was thinking the same also, in that there was one pic already of Mike on Painted Boulder. I'm shaking my head at the line you did in yellow. It was hard enough just following the more popular routes on that boulder!
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Here's some trivia I've never asked/knew:
"How/when did the paint streak come to be on the boulder?
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 13, 2012 - 03:27am PT
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Good plan bboob, Henny needs to be a "local" so that we can claim whatever he climbs as our own and not the work of some mercinary interloper.
I am happy to second the nomination for "local" status for Henny, but before he receives the public acclaim, admiration and adoration that comes with the status of "woodson local" something needs to be done about his "welcome to rubidoux" route. A name change to something like "welcome to rubidoux, the place that wishes it were woodson", or "welcome to rubidoux, poor mans woodson" would be appropriate.
After that a simple 24 hour hazing, presentation of his dowry, a pledge of allegience to woodson and ceremonial reduction to dust of a 50 lb rock from rubidoux, using only his bare hands, along with the sacred rites specified by secretary general and vice-grand poobah of woodson Bobilus Vanbellium, and hes in.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 13, 2012 - 04:29am PT
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I'm having a hard time seeing these as the same problem, unless the photographer deliberately did a massive photo tilt prank. The West face Of the Painted Boulder is a 70 degree slab. The other photo of Mike appears to be an absolutely dead vertical, if not ever-so-slightly overhanging, problem.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
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Bob, if this IS Painted Boulder, I'm sure RW didn't purposely pose the picture but, to get that angle of Mike, RW could have had his left shoulder nearly up against the stone, shooting up. The boulder behind Painted Boulder seems to be partially missing, but you can see a crescent of it in the picture. Again, it's an educated guess.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Feb 13, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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The similarities are striking, but after studying the mystery boulder more carefully i am less convinced that we are looking at painted boulder. For that to be painted boulder the photographer, at minimum, would have to be laying on his back at the base of of the rock with his camera against the wall to make it look that steep. But the mystery boulder is more than vertical, and i dont know if its physically possible to skew the perspective of the low angle west side radically enough to make it appear overhanging from a ground up shot.
There is also a sort of ripple on the face under mike that stands out like nothing on painted would, but is it a piece of the adjacent rock? I am stumped-er than i wuz now.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
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Knuckleheads.
All the Fish has to do is mess with the angle a little and he has ya'll hoodwinked. Does anyone in their wildest pipedream really think the problem is even remotely that steep? Surely someone had the wherewithall to download the picture and blow it up (even if it is poor quality), and in so doing would notice that Mike's right hand isn't even jamming, its just leaning against the rock or palming a feature. Like, it's that steep and he's in that body position? Give me a break. If it was truely that steep and he went for that move he'd be an instant lawn dart. Or in this case a dirt dart, because the base is hard pack. I think the Fish's trickery has been correctly identified already.
Good grief. I have a bridge that's for sale...
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
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Henny... he is crimping like a demon.... I know you are not that familiar with the area or really thin pulling, but this is a standard technique at the upper grades.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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By the way, while we're on the topic of the Painted Boulder - I watched Doug do this problem and I'm not really sure what it is. Anybody happen to know the problem's name? I think Mellonhead may have done it BITD.
(Sorry, I'm not up on all this high-tech imagery stuff, and how to draw pretty lines on a picture.)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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Gaaaack. He is crimping, isn't he? I better get my glasses checked. Hate it when that happens. Nonetheless, I hold on the knuckleheads bit.
Thanks.
Russ.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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I pledge allegience to the boulders of Woodson and the choss they are which everyone can barely stand. One mountain, in San Diego, unlike Rubidoux, with grainfests and grovels for all.
Finally!!! I can call myself a Woodson local! wOOt!
OK, back to serious matters. Nice day yesterday.
Looking at my watch, I see that it's time for the next episode of "Name That Problem." They should all be pretty straightforward.
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 14, 2012 - 11:53am PT
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Downclimb...Big Grunt
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